Arrow Fastener 506IP Heavy Duty T50 Staples for Upholstery, Construction, Furniture, Crafts, 3/8-Inch Leg Length, 3/8-Inch Crown Size, 5000 Pieces

A few hours into reupholstering a pair of stools, I was reminded that staples are small only in size. The right staple turns a finicky project into a straightforward one. The Arrow 506IP staples—3/8-inch leg, 3/8-inch crown—have been that kind of dependable consumable for me across upholstery, light construction, and shop tasks.

What they are and where they fit

These are heavy-duty T50-style staples in a 5,000-count box, made of steel with a standard 3/8-inch crown and a 3/8-inch leg. That sizing is a sweet spot: long enough to bite into softwoods and plywood through fabric, housewrap, or felt, but not so long that you’re constantly worried about blow-through on thin stock. The crown is wide enough to distribute load over fabric and plastic sheeting without cutting, which is why T50 staples are a classic choice for upholstery and wrapping tasks.

Arrow notes the staples ship with either chisel or divergent points. In practice, both point types drive cleanly and hold well, but they behave a bit differently:
- Chisel point tends to drive straighter and flush, leaving a neat result.
- Divergent point splays slightly in the wood fibers, boosting pull-out resistance—useful for high-tension upholstery corners or carpet tack-in.

I’ve received boxes with each style and had good outcomes either way.

Compatibility and feeding

I ran these staples through several tools:
- Arrow T50 manual stapler for upholstery and trim
- Arrow PT50 pneumatic stapler for repetitive runs on OSB and pine
- HT50 hammer tacker for housewrap and polyethylene sheeting

Fit and feeding were uneventful (the best compliment you can give a staple). Strips were straight, the adhesive binding held together in the magazine without crumbling, and I didn’t experience jams attributable to the staples themselves. If you’re already using a T50-compatible tool—manual, electric, pneumatic, or hammer tacker—these load and run as expected.

Driving performance

On softwoods (pine, fir), the 3/8-inch leg seated flush with a manual T50 with a single, firm squeeze. On hardwoods like oak, I could still get consistent results, but two tweaks helped:
- With a manual gun, leaning into the tool with the nose square to the work ensured full seating and reduced “proud” legs.
- With a pneumatic gun, dropping regulator pressure a hair when moving from softwood to hardwood improved control and avoided overdriving.

In plywood and OSB sheathing, the staples bite cleanly with minimal tear-out around the crown. For felt, housewrap, and plastic, the 3/8-inch crown held material securely without slicing, assuming you don’t crank the pressure too high with a pneumatic tool. On fabric, I prefer to set the crown just flush so the fabric doesn’t telegraph every fastener under a thin weave—easy to manage with either a manual tool or a light touch on air pressure.

I also tested some use on carpet pad over pine stairs—something these staples are commonly asked to do. The hold was reliable, though I wouldn’t pick 3/8-inch legs for thicker padding on hardwood treads; moving up a leg size or switching to divergent points (if you have them) makes sense in that scenario.

Hold, consistency, and removal

Hold strength is what it should be for a wide crown: excellent in softwoods and plywood, adequate in hardwoods for non-structural tasks. Under tension (e.g., stretching upholstery fabric or vinyl), I didn’t see creep or loosening, even over several weeks of use and re-tensioning. Divergent-point strips, when I had them, improved pull-out resistance noticeably in end grain and in softer stock.

Staple uniformity matters because inconsistent wire or malformed legs cause misfires and fishtailing. Across multiple boxes, leg length, wire gauge, and crown shape were consistent. The occasional bent staple I encountered traced back to bad technique (tilting the gun on entry or hitting a hidden fastener), not the fasteners.

For removal, a wide crown is a blessing and a curse: easier to get a staple lifter under, but it does leave a more visible mark in delicate trim. In upholstery, that trade-off is usually acceptable; in visible trim or veneer, I’d use brads or a narrow-crown alternate.

Materials and corrosion

These are steel staples, not marketed as stainless. For interior and protected applications, they’ve been problem-free. In damp or exterior settings, plain steel will rust; even light condensation in an unheated garage can leave surface oxidation over time. For outdoor exposure, treated lumber, or anywhere moisture is a concern, I’d step up to a stainless or galvanized variant and, where code requires, a cap system for WRB and roofing underlayment.

Sizing guidance

Leg length matters more than most people expect. Quick rules of thumb from my bench time:
- 1/4-inch legs for thin fabrics and paperboard on softwood.
- 3/8-inch (these) for most upholstery over plywood/softwood, felt, poly sheeting, and many shop tasks.
- 1/2-inch legs when you’re stacking heavier materials or going into denser hardwoods.

If you’re on the fence between 3/8 and 1/2 inch for a tough hardwood, consider the tool first: a pneumatic stapler can seat 3/8 cleanly; a manual gun may struggle with 1/2-inch legs in oak without multiple shots.

Jobsite and shop use

A few use cases where these have earned their keep:
- Reupholstery: Secure, repeatable holds with minimal fabric damage. The crown width spreads load well.
- Housewrap and insulation: The hammer tacker with 3/8-inch legs is fast for temporary or protected installs. For permanent exterior WRB, confirm local code—many areas require cap fasteners.
- Templates, jigs, and masking: Great for holding paper patterns, rosin paper, or dust barriers in place without over-penetration.
- Light carpet pad and runners: Adequate grip; consider divergent points or longer legs for high-traffic edges.

Packaging and value

A 5,000-count box is a practical quantity for anyone doing multiple projects or a single large job. The strips are uniform and easy to handle, and the box holds up to jobsite abuse better than flimsy blister packs. Cost per staple is low, and more importantly, consistency saves time otherwise lost clearing jams or re-shooting misfires.

Quirks and small gripes

• Point style is not selectable. If you strongly prefer divergent points for upholstery, you can’t know which you’ll get until you open the box.
• The wide crown will print through very thin fabrics. If invisibility is paramount, staples aren’t the right fastener—switch to brads or hidden snaps.
• In very hard species, a manual T50 may leave a few staples slightly proud. That’s a tool limitation more than a staple flaw, but it’s worth knowing.

Tips for best results

• Keep the nose square to the work; tilting increases fishtailing and crooked legs.
• For pneumatic use, tune air pressure by material: just enough to seat flush.
• In upholstery, start in the center of a side and work outwards, alternating sides. The 3/8-inch crown plays well with this tensioning pattern.
• Store the box in a dry spot; steel staples pick up surface rust in damp shops.

The bottom line

The Arrow 506IP staples are exactly what I want from a consumable: consistent, predictable, and broadly compatible. In 3/8-inch leg length, they hit the mark for most upholstery and general shop fastening, driving cleanly and holding reliably in the materials they’re meant for. I’d pair them with manual, electric, or pneumatic T50-compatible tools without a second thought.

Recommendation: I recommend these for anyone who needs a dependable, wide-crown staple for interior upholstery, insulation, sheeting, and general shop tasks. They feed cleanly, seat consistently, and deliver a secure hold across common base materials. If your work lives outdoors or in damp environments, look for a stainless or galvanized variant; otherwise, these have been a steady performer in my kit.