Bosch 16" x 0.5" R-TEC Bull Point Chisel (SDS-max)

Why I reached for this bull point

On jobs where I’m breaking up stairs, chasing cracks, or starting holes in dense concrete, a bull point is often the right first move. I’ve been running Bosch’s 16-inch SDS‑max bull point for several months across concrete and masonry tasks, curious about its R‑TEC star‑point tip and the promise of less jamming and longer life. It has become my go-to for general demolition and starting work before switching to specialty chisels.

Setup and compatibility

This chisel drops into any SDS‑max hammer I own with a positive, no‑slop lock-up. The shank tolerances are tight, and insertion is smooth with a distinct click. I’ve used it on both corded and cordless SDS‑max rotary hammers in hammer‑only mode. If you’re in a Hilti ecosystem, it’s compatible with TE‑Y and can be used with TE‑FY adapters without drama. The single‑piece design inspires confidence—no welded joints, no ferrules to loosen.

At 16 inches overall and about 2.37 pounds, the length-to-weight ratio feels right. The reach is genuinely useful for getting into footings and breaking at floor level without crouching uncomfortably, yet it isn’t so long that it whips or wanders.

Performance in concrete and masonry

In cured 4–6 inch slabs (3,500–4,000 PSI mixes), the Bosch bull point establishes a break quickly. The 0.5-inch point concentrates energy effectively, so instead of smearing or skipping along the surface, it bites and creates a micro‑fracture halo that propagates with successive blows. I typically work in a pattern: score, step back, and let the cracks join. With this chisel, I see a cleaner fracture line and less side chatter compared to a plain moil point.

In concrete block and solid brick, it’s easy to feather-pressure to avoid uncontrolled blowouts. For block core removal, I can start in the web, angle slightly, and open a cavity without turning the block into rubble. It’s still a demolition tool, not a finesse chisel, but the control is there when you need it.

I’ve also used it in compacted, dry clay where a shovel bounces—set the hammer, let the point do the initial penetrating, then widen with a spade. It’s not what the chisel is designed for, but the point handles it without mushrooming or glazing.

The R‑TEC star‑point tip: less binding, more bite

Bosch’s R‑TEC tip has a subtle star geometry that’s not just a marketing flourish. Two things stand out:

• It’s self‑sharpening in practice. After several days of slab break-up and multiple sessions on block, the point retained its profile. I didn’t see the rounding that makes some chisels start skating.
• It resists jamming. In cold joints and around aggregate pockets where a standard moil point can wedge and stall your hammer, this tip tends to break free more easily. That saves time and—more importantly—your shoulders.

I also noticed fewer instances where the bit “walks” on very smooth surfaces at startup. It will still skate on polished concrete if you’re careless, but it grips sooner than a conventional point.

Vibration and user comfort

Bull points transmit a lot of energy; there’s no getting around that. That said, this chisel pairs nicely with anti‑vibration hammers and doesn’t add any odd harmonic or ringing. The one‑piece body seems to channel the return shock more cleanly than two‑piece designs. I didn’t feel any dead spots where the energy disappears into flex. Over a full day, the difference between “tolerable” and “fatiguing” is meaningful, and this one stays on the better side of that line.

Reach and control

The 16-inch length is a sweet spot for me:

• It gives enough clearance to chip near grade, in footings, and at the bottom of trench cuts without kneeling.
• It helps access behind pipe runs and under slabs where a 12‑inch bit can be a knuckle-buster.
• It’s still controllable. Longer chisels can whip or bounce when the tip loses purchase; this one stays planted, especially with the star‑point geometry.

Balance is good; the center of mass sits close enough to the chuck that the hammer doesn’t feel nose-heavy.

Durability and wear

The wear pattern has been predictable. The tip stays sharp, and I’ve had no visible heat checking or blueing, even in long hammer‑only sessions. The shank shows normal polish from the chuck but no peening or groove deformation. The one‑piece forging hasn’t developed any twist, which I’ve seen on cheaper chisels after aggressive prying. Speaking of prying: it’s a chisel, not a crowbar. The tool will tolerate some wedging to pop out chunks, but keep leverage reasonable to avoid bending loads.

I’ve run it into rebar more than once. It’s not a rebar cutter, so I don’t try to shear steel with it. If you hit steel, back off and change your attack angle or switch to a cutoff wheel. The tip didn’t chip from incidental steel strikes, which is what I’d expect from a quality point.

Where it falls short

• It’s not a finishing tool. For tile, adhesive, or parging removal, you’ll want a wide scaling chisel instead. The point is too aggressive for those tasks.
• Not suitable for SDS‑plus hammers. That’s obvious, but worth stating: this is SDS‑max only. Don’t try to adapt it down.
• In very soft mortar, it can punch through faster than you intend. Feather the trigger or use a lower impact setting if your hammer allows.

These aren’t flaws so much as category realities, but they matter when selecting the right bit for the day.

Practical tips from use

• Let the hammer do the work. Excessive downforce increases binding and fatigue.
• Work in a grid on slabs. Start holes every 6–10 inches, then connect the fractures.
• Back out periodically. Clearing dust and chips reduces heat and keeps the tip biting.
• Mind your angles. A slight tilt away from the intended breakout edge reduces blow‑throughs on block and brick.
• Mark reinforcement and utilities before you start. The point will find whatever you missed.

Basic care is minimal: wipe the shank clean before insertion so the chuck seals properly, and store it dry to prevent surface rust.

How it compares

Stacked against generic moil points and older bull points I’ve owned, this Bosch stands out for two reasons: it binds less and keeps its tip longer. Removal rates are on par with the better chisels in my kit, but the consistency over time is what I appreciate. I’m not stopping to grind or swap bits mid‑day. The 16-inch length also proves more versatile than the 12-inch points I used to default to, especially for floor and footing work.

I can’t speak to decades-long longevity yet, but after repeated demolition cycles on concrete, block, and brick, there’s no sign of premature wear.

Who it’s for

• Concrete and masonry contractors needing a reliable, general‑purpose point for demolition and breakout.
• Facility and maintenance crews who want one SDS‑max bit that handles a mix of slab, block, and occasional trench starts.
• Landscapers and fence installers who sometimes face compacted soils or buried rubble that defeat a manual post‑hole digger.

If most of your work is light chipping or tile removal, a scaling blade is a better primary. If you’re on SDS‑plus, step up your hammer first.

Recommendation

I recommend the Bosch bull point chisel as a dependable, everyday SDS‑max point for concrete and masonry removal. It fits cleanly, reaches where a shorter bit can’t, and the R‑TEC star‑point tip delivers practical benefits: faster starts, less binding, and sustained sharpness. While it’s not the right tool for finishing or delicate surface work, it excels at what a bull point is meant to do—start fractures, break concrete efficiently, and keep you moving without constant tip maintenance. If you run SDS‑max hammers and need a durable, low‑drama point that you can trust across slabs, block, and tough soil, this one earns a spot in the kit.