DeWalt Rotary Masonry Bit Set (3-Piece)

Why I reached for this set

A lot of my work in older homes involves brick and block—mounting hose reels, running cable clips, and setting small anchors for fixtures. For those jobs, I like having a compact, quick-change option rather than hauling out an SDS drill and a full case of bits. That’s why I put this DeWalt 3-piece masonry bit set in my pouch. It promises carbide-tipped cutting edges and a universal 1/4-inch hex shank with a locking geometry that’s supposed to prevent spinning and slippage. On paper, it’s the right combination for light-to-medium masonry tasks with a standard drill or impact driver.

What you get and how it’s built

The set includes three sizes—5/32, 3/16, and 1/4 inch—which conveniently line up with common Tapcon pilot sizes and a lot of small-anchor hardware. Each bit has a 1/4-inch hex shank, so I can snap them into a quick-change holder or chuck them directly in a 3-jaw drill. The cutting ends are single-flute masonry profiles with brazed carbide tips.

Fit and finish are solid. The brazing on my set was clean with no visible gaps, and the flutes were free of casting burrs. The shanks have a small locking groove that mates nicely with quick-change chucks; DeWalt’s “shank-locking” language is essentially a geometry tweak to improve retention.

Test setup

I used the set across three typical scenarios:
- Red clay brick and mortar joints for cable clips and light fixtures
- Hollow CMU block for a hose reel and a junction box
- Cured slab concrete for a pair of 1/4-inch sleeve anchors

Tools-wise, I alternated between a 20V hammer drill (3-jaw chuck) and a 1/4-inch impact driver with a quality quick-change holder. Hammer mode was engaged for concrete and most brick; I drilled mortar joints in rotary-only when I needed a bit more finesse.

Performance in brick and block

In brick and hollow block, these bits do what they’re supposed to do. The 5/32 and 3/16 sizes cut quickly and track straight, especially in mortar joints. I drilled about a dozen holes for Tapcon screws in red brick, 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 inches deep, and got consistent results without excessive heat build-up. Dust clearing is respectable for a single-flute profile; withdrawing the bit every second or two to evacuate fines keeps the cutting edge productive.

In CMU block, speed was even better. The 1/4-inch bit made short work of mounting holes for a hose reel. Blow out the hole with a hand bulb or compressed air and you’ll get clean anchor engagement.

Poured concrete is workable, with caveats

Cured concrete is where small hex-shank masonry bits often meet their limit. This set will handle a handful of holes in a slab or foundation, but it isn’t the tool I’d choose for a day of anchor setting. With the hammer drill, the 3/16-inch bit remained efficient for the first few holes, then slowed as the cutting edge dulled slightly. The 1/4-inch bit got noticeably hotter and required more frequent dust clearing. If you hit hard aggregate, patience and correct technique matter—let the hammer action do the work, avoid side load, and feather your pressure.

With an impact driver, I could drill into concrete in a pinch, but it’s slower and harder on the bit. Impact drivers deliver torsional blows rather than the axial strikes that masonry drilling prefers. For small jobs where I only need a couple of holes and don’t have a hammer drill handy, it’s viable; for anything more, I’d switch to a hammer drill or, better yet, SDS-plus.

Durability and wear

Carbide-tipped masonry bits live and die by how they’re used. In brick and block, I got good life from this set. After roughly 20 mixed holes across the 5/32 and 3/16 sizes, the edges were still cutting cleanly. In concrete, the 1/4-inch bit dulled faster, which is typical for this format and flute geometry. I did have one hiccup early on: the 5/32-inch tip chipped when the bit bound as I broke through into a void behind a brittle mortar joint. That’s a reminder to keep the bit straight and ease up as you approach breakthrough. Once a chip forms on the carbide, performance drops off quickly.

Heat management matters. Continuous pressure without dust clearing will glaze the tip. I had best results pulsing the feed, backing out to clear dust, and letting the bit cool between multiple holes in harder material.

The shank-locking design: great retention, sometimes too great

I used the bits both in a 3-jaw chuck and a quick-change hex holder. In the 3-jaw, the shank geometry absolutely helps—no spinning, even when the bit hit aggregate in concrete. In the quick-change holder, retention was rock solid as well. I did have one instance where the 1/4-inch bit stuck in a worn holder after a hot drilling session. A few techniques helped:
- Let the bit cool before attempting removal
- Pull the collar fully back while twisting the bit clockwise and counterclockwise
- Clean the holder—masonry dust can pack into the detent and increase friction
- Avoid running the bit until it’s too hot to touch; heat expansion exacerbates sticking

If your quick-change holder is beat up, consider swapping it; a fresh, higher-quality holder reduced sticking significantly in my testing.

Hole quality and accuracy

Measuring post-drill diameters with pin gauges, the 3/16-inch bit produced holes that were acceptably round and on-size for standard blue concrete screws. The 1/4-inch bit left slightly rougher walls in poured concrete—which is normal with single-flute masonry bits—but still within the range anchors expect once dust is properly cleared. In brick and block, breakout was minimal when I avoided excessive feed pressure near exit.

Where this set makes sense

• Electricians and low-voltage installers who need quick, small holes in masonry for clips and boxes
• DIYers mounting fixtures to brick or block without investing in an SDS system
• Remodelers doing occasional Tapcon installations in mortar, brick, and light concrete

If your day involves dozens of anchors in cured concrete, an SDS-plus hammer drill and dedicated SDS bits will be faster, cooler, and more durable. This hex-shank set shines when portability and quick changes matter more than maximum drilling speed in hard aggregate.

Tips for best results

• Use hammer mode in brick and concrete; switch to rotary-only for delicate mortar joints
• Back the bit out frequently to clear dust
• Start square, keep steady pressure, and avoid side load
• Don’t push through the last 1/4 inch—ease up to reduce tip chipping on breakthrough
• Let bits cool between holes in harder material
• Keep your quick-change holder clean, and replace worn holders to prevent sticking

Value and limitations

The value proposition is the convenience of 1/4-inch hex compatibility and a compact three-size lineup that covers common anchor needs. The trade-offs are predictable: limited size range, slower progress in tough concrete, and durability that hinges on technique. The carbide is competent, the shank geometry does what it claims, and the bits are practical for the intended applications. Just don’t expect them to replace SDS bits for heavy-duty concrete work.

Recommendation

I recommend this DeWalt masonry bit set for light-to-medium drilling in brick, block, and mortar, and for occasional holes in cured concrete when paired with a hammer drill. The hex shank and shank-locking design deliver reliable retention with both 3-jaw chucks and quick-change holders, and the three included sizes map neatly to common anchor tasks. The set’s limitations are clear: durability falls off faster in hard concrete, one small bit can chip if you force breakthrough, and bits can stick in worn holders if you run them hot. Use sound technique, keep your holders clean, and this compact set will earn its keep for day-to-day masonry odds and ends. For repeated heavy concrete drilling, step up to SDS-plus; for everything else, this set is a convenient, capable choice.