Skil 12 IN. Dry Cut Saw

Overview

After years of living with abrasive chop saws and handheld band saws, I wanted a cleaner, faster way to process steel on the bench and at the jobsite. The Skilsaw dry-cut saw has quickly become my go-to for light-to-medium metal work. It trades grit, heat, and showers of sparks for controllable cuts, cool chips, and a pace that keeps up with day-to-day fabrication. It’s not a production saw for thick structural sections, but within its lane it’s a very capable, portable cutter that rewards a steady hand and the right blade.

Build and Design

The saw feels purpose-built for jobsite portability. The die-cast aluminum base and guards keep weight reasonable at just over 38 lb, yet the base is solid enough that the saw doesn’t skitter under load. The carry handle is well placed, and the balance is good—important if you’re moving between truck, bench, and slab all day.

Fit and finish are better than I expected in this price class. The hinge has minimal play, which translates to a smooth, predictable drop through the cut. The vise and fence are stout, with a quick-release lever that saves time when you’re bouncing between different stock sizes. The included 60‑tooth carbide‑tipped blade and a blade-change wrench (stowed in the base) make it truly ready to work out of the box.

A few practical touches stand out:
- Soft-start 15‑amp motor (1,500 RPM no-load) that ramps up without torque twist
- Chip tray that catches a meaningful portion of the swarf and pulls for easy emptying
- Left-side extension support for longer workpieces
- Aluminum table and guards that don’t feel flimsy in use

One omission to note: there’s no electric brake. The blade coasts for a few seconds after the trigger is released, so you need to keep your routine disciplined. The 6 ft cord is serviceable on a bench; on site, plan on an extension.

Setup, Capacity, and Adjustments

Out of the box, my unit was square enough to make clean, repeatable cuts. I still recommend checking with a machinist square and an angle finder if you’re chasing tight tolerances—especially for miters. The saw miters to 45° left only; there’s no right miter range, so right-hand miters require flipping the work or rethinking the setup.

Capacity is generous for a 12 in. dry cutter:
- Up to 4.5 in. round stock
- Common shapes like 2x2 tube, 3 in. angle, rebar, and conduit are all well within its comfort zone

The workpiece clamp has the right mix of speed and force. Flip the quick-release, slide to size, then twist to lock. It holds material firmly against the fence without creeping. I found it strong enough to keep heavier tube in place during plunge cuts without chatter.

Cutting Performance

Dry-cut saws live and die by blade speed, torque, and tooth geometry working together. At 1,500 RPM, the Skilsaw runs slower than wood saws (as it should), and the soft-start motor applies torque smoothly. The result is controlled, low-spark cutting that leaves chips and workpieces cool to the touch—no more scorch marks, and far less risk of lighting dry grass on fire outdoors.

With the included carbide blade, cut surfaces are consistently smooth with a tiny burr that usually snaps off between fingers or disappears with a couple of passes from a file. Compared to an abrasive saw, the difference in finish and speed is significant: the Skilsaw plows through mild steel tube, bar, and angle with little drama, and you’re not pausing to cool parts or wrangle hot slag.

I ran a mix of materials through it:
- Mild steel: 2x2x.120 and 2x3x.120 tubing, 3/16 in. flat, 3 in. angle, threaded rod
- Conduit and light-gauge galvanized
- Aluminum tube and bar

Feed pressure is the skill to master here. Too heavy a hand and you risk chipping teeth; too light and you’ll polish rather than cut. With steady, moderate pressure, the saw keeps a smooth cadence and maintains cut quality. If you’re accustomed to forcing abrasive wheels, slow down and let the teeth work—you’ll get better results and longer blade life.

One caveat: respect the material limits. Dry-cut blades generally don’t love sections thicker than 1/4 in. in soft steel. The saw will still make the cut, but the risk to the teeth rises and cut time stretches. For heavier, frequent stock, a cold saw or a band saw is a better fit.

Accuracy and Repeatability

The fence on my unit was square to the blade out of the box, and the hinge tracks true without side play. For 90° cuts, it’s very repeatable. Miters require more attention. The miter scale and pointer are serviceable but not surgical; setting a precise 22.5° or 30° is easier if you verify with a digital angle gauge or a known square. Once locked, the miter holds its position well through multiple cuts.

Blade deflection was minimal on shorter pieces. On longer stock, take the extra moment to support the outboard end; the included left extension helps, but heavy sticks still benefit from a roller stand or a quick sawhorse setup.

Ergonomics and Safety

The soft-start trigger and safety lock are comfortable to use, and the top handle feels natural whether you’re right- or left-handed. The fixed front shield and guard do a good job keeping chips out of your face; still, wear safety glasses and hearing protection—the saw is quieter than an abrasive unit but far from silent.

The clamp design is a highlight. It speeds workflow and keeps hands away from the cut line. The chip tray meaningfully reduces cleanup, though don’t expect a dust-extractor-like capture—chips still escape, and you’ll want a broom or magnet on hand.

One minor quirk: at full plunge on certain setups, the guard can kiss the base. It doesn’t stop the cut, but you’ll notice the contact. Not a deal-breaker, just something to be aware of.

Blade Life and Maintenance

Carbide blades are consumables, and their lifespan depends heavily on technique and material choice. If you stay within the saw’s sweet spot (thin-wall to 1/4 in. mild steel, nonferrous metals) and avoid forcing the cut, the included blade holds up well and keeps a clean edge. Abuse it on thick, hardened, or mystery steel, or slam the head through cuts, and you’ll eventually pay in chipped teeth.

Maintenance is light:
- Empty the chip tray regularly
- Keep the base and fence free of chips to maintain squareness
- Check vise tightness and hinge fasteners occasionally
- Swap blades when cut quality drops instead of muscling through

Warranty coverage is modest (180-day satisfaction plus a 1-year limited warranty), which feels standard for this category.

Limitations and Nitpicks

• No electric brake; factor the blade coast into your workflow
• Miter range only to 45° left; no right miter capability
• Pointer and miter scale are coarse; verify with a gauge for precision work
• Chip collection is good, not great; expect floor cleanup
• 6 ft cord is short for jobsite use without an extension
• Guard can contact the base at deepest plunges

None of these are fatal flaws, but they’re worth knowing before you commit.

Who It’s For

• Fabricators, remodelers, and fence installers who need fast, repeatable cuts in common steel profiles without the mess and heat of abrasive saws
• Jobsite crews who value a portable, accurate metal chop saw with clean, cool cuts
• Small shops where a cold saw is overkill and a band saw is too slow for short, square stock

If you routinely cut heavy structural steel, thick plate, or hardened materials, a band saw or cold saw remains the better choice.

Recommendation

I recommend the Skilsaw dry-cut saw for anyone doing regular light-to-medium metal fabrication who wants cleaner, faster, and cooler cuts than an abrasive saw can deliver. It’s well built for its weight, the clamp and hinge inspire confidence, and the included carbide blade produces impressively smooth results with minimal burr. You’ll trade a right-hand miter range and an electric brake for portability and cut quality, but within its intended envelope—up to 4.5 in. capacity and roughly 1/4 in. steel thickness—it’s a reliable, efficient tool that improves workflow on the bench and on site. Use it with a measured feed, keep it within its material limits, and it will pay you back in time saved and better-looking work.