Skil 6.2 Amp 10 In. Benchtop Drill Press

First impressions and setup

I brought the Skil drill press into a small corner of my shop, bolted it to a bench, and had it assembled in about half an hour. The head casting and column are substantial for a 10-inch class machine, and assembly is straightforward with the included hex wrenches and chuck key. Once tightened down, the press feels planted and reasonably rigid for its size. The column diameter is stout enough that lateral flex isn’t an issue for typical benchtop tasks, and the 10-inch swing gives you the expected five inches from column to bit center. If you tend to work with larger panels or jigs, the base and table size (about 7-3/5 x 6-1/2 inches) are on the compact side, so I added an auxiliary MDF table with a fence and stop blocks; that transforms the usability of this press.

Power and speed range

The 6.2-amp induction motor is the right choice here. It’s quieter than a universal motor, there’s no shrill whine, and it has enough torque to push a sharp 1/2-inch twist bit through hardwood and mild steel without drama. Speed changes are via a stepped pulley system with five settings: 610, 950, 1500, 2050, and 2800 RPM. That spread covers most shop drilling tasks:

• 610 RPM for steel and large bits in hardwood with cutting fluid
• 950–1500 RPM for general-purpose woodworking and Forstners
• 2050–2800 RPM for smaller bits and clean holes in softwood or plastics

In use, the press holds speed well under normal load. I noticed the most benefit at the low end, where the extra torque keeps a Forstner bit from stalling when breaking through.

Speed changes: effective but fiddly

Like most benchtop presses in this price class, speed changes mean opening the pulley cover, moving the belt, and re-tensioning the motor. The belt drive works, but it’s a little clunky. The motor’s pivot travel is limited, so backing off tension enough to hop the belt can be fiddly until you find your rhythm. Loosening both the pivot and locking bolts and physically pushing the motor toward the spindle helps; I also find a quick roll of the belt by hand while rotating the pulley makes changes smoother. On the upside, the belt is a common size (K-30), so replacements are easy to source from industrial suppliers.

Accuracy, runout, and the laser

Out of the box, holes are straight and repeatable. In hardwood, I’m able to hit layout marks reliably using a center punch, and chips clear well at appropriate speeds. The spindle and quill feel tight within the limits of a benchtop design—no wandering that would cause me to double-take. It’s not a precision machinist’s press, but for furniture parts, jigs, and light metal brackets, it’s spot on.

The laser alignment system is better than a novelty. After a quick calibration, the crosshair lands where the bit will enter. I still mark with a punch for metal and fine work, but for repetitive drilling in wood or centered holes, the laser speeds things up. It holds calibration through normal use; I only needed to tweak it after moving the head during a thorough cleaning.

Table, tilt, and depth control

The table raises and lowers on a rack-and-pinion with a locking clamp. Functionally, it does the job, but this is one area where you feel the difference between benchtop and floor-standing presses. The elevation gear is serviceable, not silky; there’s a bit of play you learn to snug out with the clamp. The table rotates around the column for positioning and tilts 0–45 degrees left and right, which is handy for chamfers and angled holes. The tilt scale gets you in the ballpark, but I rely on a digital angle gauge when accuracy matters.

I like the depth stop on this press. The adjustment is straightforward and holds well, making repeat countersinks and through-holes consistent. The quill travel is about 2 inches, which is typical for a 10-inch machine. It’s sufficient for most furniture and jig work; just know that deeper holes in thick stock may require repositioning or drilling from both sides.

Chuck and bit holding

The 1/2-inch keyed chuck is practical and, importantly, secure. It grips round and hex-shank bits well and releases without fuss. It’s not a premium chuck—feel is a little “dry” when opening and closing—but it has been reliable with properly set keys and clean jaws. If you plan to do delicate metal drilling with tiny bits, you’ll likely add a dedicated smaller chuck or a pin vise adapter anyway. For general wood and metal shop work, the included chuck is appropriate.

Lighting and ergonomics

The LED work light is a welcome addition. It’s bright enough to illuminate the work surface and minimize shadows under the bit, though you’ll still get some shading depending on stock height. The laser and light controls are easy to reach. The on/off control uses a bump-off style safety switch, which is exactly what I want on a drill press—quick to kill with a tap if something binds. The quill handle has a comfortable sweep, and the return spring brings the spindle up crisply without slamming.

Noise, vibration, and feel

Induction motors shine here. Noise is reasonable; I can hold a conversation over the whir without shouting. Vibration is minimal once the press is bolted down and the belt is properly tensioned. With balanced bits and correct speeds, the machine feels composed. Poorly sharpened bits or an aggressive feed will remind you it’s a benchtop press, but the overall feel is confidence-inspiring for its class.

Capacity and shop fit

This press hits a sweet spot for small to midsize shops:

• 10-inch capacity and a 1/2-inch chuck cover most hobby and project builds
• 2 inches of quill travel suits jigs, fixtures, and furniture parts
• A compact table is easy to augment with a larger auxiliary top

Limitations are what you’d expect. The short quill throw makes deep drilling a two-step process. Large or heavy workpieces benefit from an auxiliary table and good clamping. And while the table tilt is useful, the scale alone isn’t precise enough for critical angled joinery without additional measurement.

Reliability and maintenance

Day to day, there’s little to fuss with: keep the column clean and waxed, check belt tension periodically, and blow out chips under the table elevation rack. The laser may need an occasional tweak after a bump. Consumables-wise, the K-30 belt is standard and easy to replace, and the keyed chuck responds well to a light cleaning and a drop of oil on the jaws if it starts feeling gritty.

What I’d improve

• Speed changes: More motor pivot travel or a tensioning lever would make belt swaps faster.
• Table mechanism: Tighter tolerance in the elevation gear would reduce the play you have to clamp out.
• Table rotation lock: A secondary lock to keep the table from rotating while raising/lowering would be handy when preserving fence alignment.

None of these are deal-breakers, but they’re the spots where you feel the cost savings.

Who it’s for

If you’re outfitting a first serious shop, upgrading from a handheld drill for repeatable accuracy, or you want a compact press that can handle both wood and light metal, this Skil drill press fits well. It’s powerful for its size, reasonably quiet, and equipped with genuinely useful features—laser, LED light, adjustable depth stop, and a tilting table—without creeping into floor-standing prices or footprints.

If you routinely drill deep holes, need precise angle adjustments without external gauges, or change speeds constantly across a wide range, a larger press with a longer quill throw and a quick-change tensioning system will save time.

Recommendation

I recommend this drill press for small to midsize shops looking for solid performance and thoughtful features at a fair price. The 6.2-amp induction motor provides real torque, the five-step pulley range covers common materials, and the laser/LED package improves everyday usability. Speed changes are a bit fiddly and the table elevation could be smoother, but those are typical trade-offs in this class. With an auxiliary table and good clamping, it becomes a capable, accurate shop workhorse that earns its space on the bench.