Skil 7-1/4 In. 24-Tooth Carbide Framing Blade 10-pack

First impressions and setup

I put this Skil framing blade to work the way most blades in this class get used: fast rips, crosscuts, and bevels on common construction lumber, with plenty of pressure-treated stock tossed in. Out of the pack, the plate is flat and true, the teeth are evenly ground, and the dark, low-friction coating feels slick without being gummy. Mounting it on a 15-amp corded sidewinder and a 7-1/4 in 18V cordless saw took seconds—no odd arbor quirks or spacers needed.

A quick spin-up test told me two things. First, the expansion slots do their job—the blade comes up to speed without the high-pitched whine some budget 24T blades produce. Second, the plate tracks cleanly; there’s no obvious lateral wobble when the saw runs free or under a light load.

Design details that matter on site

• Thin kerf (0.07 in): This is a true thin-kerf plate. That lowers cutting load and helps cordless runtime, but it also means you need decent technique in dense stock to avoid deflection.
• Micrograin carbide with titanium-carbide teeth: The tooth tips stay sharper longer than the bargain-bin options. It’s still a framing blade, not a fine-finish cutter, but edge life is solid.
• Dark friction-reducing coating: It sheds pitch better than bare steel and keeps heat down in longer rips and wet lumber.
• Expansion slots and control cut shoulders: The slots tame vibration, while the shoulders limit bite per tooth. You feel this in how the saw enters the cut—less grabby at the start and more stable through knots.

Also worth noting: it’s a 10-pack. On a job where time is money, the ability to toss a tired blade and keep moving is real value, and this bundle encourages that.

Performance in common framing tasks

I started with standard SPF studs and plates. Crosscuts are fast and predictable with the typical 24-tooth signature: a slightly ragged exit on the far face but clean enough for framing tolerances. Rips in 2x material felt efficient; I could push the cut faster than with a thicker-kerf blade without bogging the motor. The control cut shoulders seem to moderate the bite, especially noticeable when dropping into a cut mid-span for birdsmouths or notches.

On 3/4-in CDX and OSB, the blade handled full-sheet rips without overheating. Tear-out is present on the top veneer (as you’d expect with a 24T), but not egregious. For cabinet-grade plywood or visible edges, you’ll want a finer-tooth blade; for subfloor and sheathing, this is perfectly serviceable.

The real test for me is wet pressure-treated southern yellow pine. I crosscut and ripped a couple dozen 2x6s and 2x10s for deck framing. The low-friction coating kept the cut moving without that sticky pitch drag you sometimes get a few boards into PT. Heat was minimal; I could touch the plate shortly after longer rips without flinching. The blade stayed on line with a steady feed rate, and the saw didn’t surge or chatter entering knots. Compared to a mid-tier 24T I’ve used, this Skil blade was a little quieter and felt less grabby at the start of the cut.

On stair stringers, 45-degree bevels, and occasional compound cuts, the blade tracked predictably. In full-depth 45s on 2x12 PT, I could feel the plate flex if I leaned too hard. Backing off pressure, letting the teeth do the work, and maintaining a consistent shoe contact resolved it. That’s the thin kerf talking—file it under technique, not a defect.

Corded vs. cordless behavior

Corded: On a 15-amp sidewinder, the blade made fast work of everything I fed it. There’s a sweet spot where the blade clears chips efficiently and the motor hums without laboring. If you push beyond that, you get the usual 24T roughness but no scary kick or stall. The expansion slots keep vibration in check; my wrist felt fresher after a day of repetitive cuts than with some thicker, louder plates.

Cordless: Thin kerf pays dividends here. On an 18V saw with a 6.0Ah pack, I saw a noticeable uptick in cuts per charge compared with a standard-kerf framing blade. The lighter feed pressure also helps the motor maintain speed. In wet PT, it still held its own—slower feed and steady hands kept the cut straight with minimal deflection.

Cut quality and control

• Straightness: With proper technique, tracking is reliable. The blade’s shoulders reduce that sudden “jump” when the teeth first engage.
• Surface finish: It’s a framing blade—expect fast cuts and a serviceable face. Plywood edges show some fuzzing; a touch with a block plane or sandpaper cleans it up.
• Entry and exit tear-out: Moderate on plywood and hardwood-faced composites. Minimal on construction lumber with clean supports.
• Noise and vibration: Quieter than typical budget 24T blades. Less high-frequency scream, more of a steady buzz. Hearing protection still required.

Durability and tooth life

After a deck build (ledger cuts, joist rips, and a lot of crosscuts in wet PT) and some wall framing, the first blade in the pack still had acceptable sharpness. The teeth show light micro-chipping at the corners—normal wear for this application—and the cut slowed down a touch in dense knots. Pitch buildup was modest and wiped off the coated plate with a bit of cleaner. I avoided known fasteners, but one incidental brush with a buried, old staple didn’t fracture a tooth—just a tiny flat on one corner. That’s about as good as it gets for a framing blade in this price/feature bracket.

The coating scuffs over time but continues to shed material well. Plate flatness held; I didn’t detect runout or a persistent wobble after heat cycles. If you have a sharpening service nearby, a 24T like this can be touched up once or twice, but given the value of a 10-pack, most folks will just rotate in a fresh blade.

Where it shines and where it doesn’t

Shines:
- Fast, efficient cuts in studs, plates, rafters, and PT decking stock
- Cordless saw runtime and performance thanks to the thin kerf
- Jobsite reliability with good tracking and manageable entry into cuts
- Bulk value; you can keep work moving without babying a single premium blade

Not ideal for:
- Finish work or visible plywood edges—step up to a 40T/60T for that
- Aggressive rips in thick engineered lumber (LVL, PSL) where a stiffer plate or higher tooth count maintains straighter lines under heavy load
- Frequent nail or screw strikes—there’s no magic here; carbide will chip

Practical tips for best results

• Let the blade set the pace. Thin kerf rewards steady, moderate feed pressure; forcing it invites deflection.
• Support your work. Tear-out drops when the piece is fully supported, particularly on plywood and bevel cuts.
• Keep it clean. A quick solvent wipe keeps the coating slick and reduces heat, especially after PT runs.
• Swap early. With a 10-pack on hand, change blades at the first sign of burnishing or slow cuts. It’s cheaper than fighting the saw or fraying edges all day.

Value perspective

Stacked against premium framing blades, this Skil option gives up a bit of refinement in finish and ultimate stiffness but holds its own in speed, stability, and edge life. The friction-reducing coating and vibration control features aren’t marketing fluff—you can feel their contribution in cut consistency and comfort. The 10-pack format turns it into a smart consumable strategy: less downtime, predictable performance, and no stress about nursing a single expensive blade through a dirty job.

Final recommendation

I recommend this Skil framing blade pack for framing crews, remodelers, and serious DIYers who want reliable, fast cuts in construction lumber and PT without overspending on individual premium blades. It tracks straight with measured feed, stays cooler than bare steel alternatives, and stretches cordless runtime. It won’t replace a fine-tooth blade for finish work or outperform a stiff, heavy-plate option in thick engineered stock, but as a day-to-day jobsite cutter, it hits the mark. The 10-pack sweetens the deal—swap when it slows, and keep the work moving.