Orion Motor Tech 80pc Tap and Die Set in SAE and Metric Sizes, Metric and Standard Tap Set and Die Tool Set for Internal and External Threading

Why I picked up this set

I keep a couple of tap-and-die sets on the shelf: one that’s nice enough I’m picky about where it goes, and another that I don’t mind tossing in a job box. This 80-piece Orion tap and die set falls squarely into the second category—a budget-friendly kit that covers both SAE and metric sizes for cutting and chasing threads without a lot of fuss. I took it through a handful of common repair tasks and light fabrication to see where it shines and where it shows its price.

What you get

• Coverage: SAE from #4 up to 1/2 inch and metric from M3 to M12, with both coarse and fine options in the sizes that matter most.
• Tools: a standard tap wrench and a T-handle tap wrench, a die stock, thread pitch gauges (SAE and metric), a couple of small flathead screwdrivers, and a pair of basic gloves.
• Storage: two separate blow‑molded cases—one for SAE, one for metric—which does make finding what you need quicker.

The taps and dies are made from high‑carbon chromium bearing steel. In use, that translated to better edge holding than the ultra-cheap carbon-steel kits you see in bargain bins, but it’s not high-speed steel. Expect respectable performance in aluminum, brass, plastics, and mild steel with proper technique and cutting fluid; don’t expect miracles in stainless or hardened fasteners.

Build quality and ergonomics

The cutting tools themselves are the strength of the set. Markings are etched and mostly easy to read; on the tiniest taps the laser etch is small, but still legible with decent shop lighting. The geometry is consistent enough that taps start straight if you do your part. Dies are cleanly machined, with no flashing or burrs on mine.

The handles are serviceable. The larger tap wrench clamps reliably when you snug the jaws firmly, and the T-handle gives better control on M3–M6 and #4–#10 taps. That said, there’s a hint of play in the mechanisms, and under high torque the cast bodies don’t inspire complete confidence. If you’re regularly threading tougher steels, you’ll eventually want to upgrade the tap wrench and die stock.

The cases are a mixed bag. I appreciate having SAE and metric separated, and the layout is logical. But the internal trays don’t lock the pieces down very securely. Keep the thin foam sheets that arrive in the lids; if you leave them in place (or glue them to the lids), the contents stay put much better.

Setup and organization

One minor omission: there’s no tap drill chart in the box. You’ll want a chart handy (printed or on your phone) and a proper drill index with fractional, letter, and number bits. As a reference:
- 5/16-18 typically uses a letter F drill for roughly 75% thread.
- M8 × 1.25 typically uses a 6.8 mm drill.

The included thread pitch gauges are surprisingly useful. They’re accurate, and I used them to confirm a couple of mystery fasteners on an older motorcycle—one SAE fine, one metric fine—and matched dies easily.

Performance in the shop

I ran three representative tasks:

1) Cutting new threads in mild steel: I drilled a 3/8-16 through-hole in 1/4-inch angle iron and used the large tap wrench with cutting oil. The tap started cleanly after a light chamfer. Advancing a half-turn and backing off a quarter to break chips, I got a crisp thread profile with no tearing. Edge wear was minimal, and the bolt gauged well.

2) Chasing rusty automotive threads: I chased an M10 fine-thread stud and an M6 bracket. The dies cut corrosion without galling, and the taps cleaned deformed threads quickly. This is where budget sets earn their keep—chasing saves parts, and you don’t need premium taps to do it.

3) Light fabrication in aluminum: Tapping M6 × 1 into a 3/16-inch bracket with the T‑handle felt controlled and predictable. Aluminum loves to gall if you rush; with a dab of cutting fluid and a steady back‑out schedule, the finish was clean. No chip welding on the flutes.

Across these tasks, the steel quality was good enough that I never felt on the verge of snapping a tap, as long as I stayed in softer materials and used proper technique. I wouldn’t try to push this set into stainless without purpose‑made taps and the right fluid.

Limitations and nitpicks

• Handles: Usable, but the cast bodies and clamping mechanisms are the weak point. They work; they’re not heirloom.
• Bottoming taps: The set leans toward taper/plug leads. For blind holes that need full thread near the bottom, you’ll either grind a sacrificial second tap into a bottomer or source true bottoming taps separately.
• Pipe threads: The set includes a basic NPT size, but coverage is limited. If you do much plumbing or pneumatic work, you’ll want a dedicated pipe-thread kit.
• Case inserts: The trays don’t positively retain every small part. Keep the foam, and consider adding a strip of thin magnetic tape or gluing the foam to the lid.
• No included drill chart: Not a dealbreaker, but it would help beginners. Print one and tuck it into the case.

Technique tips for best results

• Chamfer the hole: A quick countersink or a light kiss with a larger drill removes the burr and helps the tap start straight.
• Use the right fluid: General cutting oil is fine for steel; kerosene, WD‑40, or a specific aluminum tapping fluid reduces galling in aluminum. For stainless, use a sulfurized tapping oil and slow down—or better, use HSS or cobalt taps designed for the task.
• Control your torque: Especially on small taps (#4–M4), use the T‑handle and a tap guide block or drill-press quill as a manual guide to keep things square.
• Break chips: Advance a half-turn, back a quarter. Don’t force a tap that stops cutting; clear chips, re‑lubricate, and continue.
• Match drill sizes: Aim for roughly 70–75% thread engagement for general work. Chasing damaged threads often benefits from the lower end of that range.

Who this set suits best

• DIYers and hobbyists who need both SAE and metric coverage in one purchase.
• Mechanics who primarily chase threads and occasionally cut new ones in mild steel, aluminum, or brass.
• Fabricators who want an inexpensive backup kit for on-site fixes.

If you’re cutting new threads daily, tapping deep blind holes, or working routinely in stainless or tool steel, you’ll outgrow this in a hurry and should spend on higher-grade HSS taps, a sturdier tap wrench, and dedicated bottoming taps.

Durability over time

After several jobs, the common sizes I used (M6, M8, 1/4-20, 3/8-16) still cut cleanly. The cutting edges show the expected wear sheen but no chipping. The die stock’s set screws held, though I periodically re‑snugged them. Long-term, I’d expect the taps to dull if pushed hard in tougher steels; that’s typical for this steel class. The cases are metal with plastic inserts; treat them reasonably and they’ll last, but they won’t survive being a step stool.

Value

The appeal here is coverage and competence at a low price. You get both SAE and metric, coarse and fine, plus pitch gauges and multiple handles. That’s a lot of capability for the cost. The compromises—average handles, basic case, and a few missing specialty taps—are predictable at this tier and, in my experience, manageable.

Recommendation

I recommend this Orion 80‑piece set for anyone who needs a capable, budget‑minded tap-and-die kit for light fabrication, maintenance, and thread repair in common materials. It cuts cleanly when used correctly, the included pitch gauges make fastener ID painless, and the dual‑case organization speeds up workflow. Plan on supplementing it with a tap drill chart, a proper drill index, and—if you do blind holes—bottoming taps. If you’re a professional cutting threads every day or working in stainless regularly, skip this and invest in higher‑grade taps and sturdier handles. For everyone else, it’s a practical, good‑value addition to the shop.