DeWalt 1-3/8 in. Heavy-Duty Self-Feed Bit

I spend a lot of time boring big, clean holes in framing for plumbing and electrical, and I’m always weighing speed against hole quality and the hassle of clearing plugs. After several weeks running DeWalt’s 1-3/8 in. self-feed bit through studs, plates, and some hardwood offcuts in the shop, I have a clear picture of where it shines and where it can fight you.

Design and build

This self-feed bit uses a triple-cutter head with an aggressive spur and an open-tooth layout. The cutting geometry is clearly aimed at moving chips and resisting binding. The replaceable feed screw sits out front to pull the bit through the cut; DeWalt includes a spare and an Allen key for swaps. The cutters are high carbon steel and intentionally accessible for touch-up with a file—no tricky profiles to replicate. The 7/16 in. hex shank has a ball groove for quick-change right-angle drills and adapters, and it still plays nicely with a standard keyed or keyless chuck.

At 5 in. overall with a nominal 3 in. drilling depth, the bit is compact. That’s a benefit in tight stud bays where a long bit collides with insulation or cross bracing. The downside is obvious if you’re trying to cross a triple plate in one pass: you’ll want an extension or plan a two-sided approach.

Fit and finish are solid. There’s no slop in the screw, the cutters were sharp out of the package, and the shank is true. Weight lands around half a pound, which contributes to the planted feel in the cut without making it unwieldy in a pouch.

Setup and tool pairing

Self-feed bits demand torque. I ran this primarily in a high-torque 1/2 in. drill with a side handle, low gear, and no clutch. I also tested it in a 20V compact drill. The compact could do the job in low speed on SPF studs but stalled more easily and heated up faster. If you’re boring a dozen holes in a remodel, a compact will limp through; if you’re roughing in an entire floor, reach for a right-angle drill or a hammer drill with a proper side handle.

The shank’s 7/16 in. ball groove is compatible with many quick-change right-angle drills commonly used by plumbers and electricians. It’s not a 1/4 in. hex shank, so leave the impact driver in the case.

As with any self-feed, a good practice is to wax the screw threads and the cutters lightly (beeswax or paste wax) and set your drill to low speed. Let the screw work—your job is to keep the drill aligned and modulate feed by feathering the trigger, not to lean on it.

Cutting performance

• SPF framing (2x4 and 2x6): In dry studs and plates, the bit is fast. With a high-torque drill in low gear, I was averaging roughly 4–6 seconds per hole through 1-1/2 in. stock, and about 10–12 seconds through doubled plates. The triple-cutter head produces long, curled shavings that clear the open gullets well. Importantly, there’s no plug to knock out like a hole saw, so consecutive holes go faster as the chips scatter instead of packing.

• Dense hardwoods (oak and hard maple): The bit still tracks straight and produces a surprisingly clean rim, but speed drops and torque loads rise. The feed screw is aggressive enough that you need to be ready on the trigger to avoid overfeeding. I backed out every inch or so to clear chips and keep heat in check. Hole quality is good for construction tasks, but this is not a cabinetmaker’s Forstner—expect a utilitarian finish suitable for concealed runs.

• Wet or resinous lumber: This is where self-feed bits can stumble. In pressure-treated 2x and pitchy pine, the shavings can get stringy and load up. If you try to bull your way through, you’ll stall the drill and glaze the cutters. Peck drilling—advance half an inch to an inch, reverse and back out to toss chips, then continue—solved the problem for me. The open-tooth design helps, but technique still matters in gummy stock.

Chip ejection overall is better than many two-cutter self-feed heads I’ve used. I had one stoppage when I rushed a through-hole in wet PT without clearing chips; the gullets packed and the screw buried itself. Lesson learned: clear, then cut.

Hole quality and control

The bit’s spur does a nice job scoring the perimeter, so entry edges stay clean with minimal fuzzing. The cutting geometry is slightly recessed toward the center, yielding a shallow dish rather than a perfectly flat bottom. For rough-in, that’s a non-issue. On exits, you’ll get blowout if you let the screw drag you through the last fraction. For a cleaner exit, reduce trigger pressure, or stop just shy and finish from the opposite side; a quick pilot through with a long 1/4 in. bit can also help you meet holes cleanly from both faces.

The feed screw centers quickly and resists walking, but it will steer if you start off-angle. Get the drill square before the threads bite, and use a firm grip—the torque reaction is real. A side handle isn’t optional; it’s wrist insurance.

Maintenance and longevity

After a couple dozen holes in mixed stock, edge sharpness remained good. The open-tooth profile makes touch-ups straightforward with a fine file. Focus on maintaining the factory relief angles and keep your strokes even; you don’t need to remove much material. The replaceable screw is a cost saver if you encounter a hidden fastener or round off the threads in abrasive composites. Keep a spare in your pouch—swapping it in the field takes a minute.

High carbon steel is typical for self-feed bits and sharpens easily, but it will lose temper if overheated. If the bit starts burning, you’re feeding too fast, running too fast, or not clearing chips often enough.

Comparisons to other boring options

• Hole saws: Cleaner exits in sheet goods and easier to use with lower-torque drills, but they leave a plug you have to pry out. In framing, that slows you down more than you think. The self-feed’s shavings-only waste stream is a genuine time saver.

• Forstner bits: Better for flat-bottom holes and precision in furniture and cabinetry, but slower and not self-feeding. They also don’t love nail-dense environments.

• Spade bits: Fast and cheap, but they wander more, leave rough holes, and beat up your wrists on larger diameters.

For 1-3/8 in. holes through studs and plates, this self-feed bit hits the right combination of speed, control, and maintainability.

Limitations

• Depth: You’ve got around 3 in. of effective drilling depth. That covers a single stud or plate easily, a doubled plate with care, and starts to struggle on triples without an extension.

• Power requirement: Compact drills can turn it, but they’re not happy about it. Plan on a high-torque drill, low gear, and a side handle.

• Material selectivity: In very wet or resinous lumber, you must peck drill and clear chips or accept stalls. The bit can be made to work there, but it isn’t foolproof.

• Not a finish tool: The hole quality is more than adequate for rough-in, but it won’t replace a Forstner in visible work.

Tips for best results

• Run low RPM and let the screw do the pulling; modulate with the trigger, not body weight.
• Peck drill in wet, PT, or resinous stock: advance, back out to clear, then continue.
• Wax the screw and cutters lightly to reduce heat and pitch build-up.
• Use a side handle and brace yourself; expect torque kick if the bit binds.
• Ease off near the exit or finish from the opposite side to control blowout.
• Touch up the cutters with a fine file when performance tails off; don’t wait until they’re dull.

Recommendation

I recommend this self-feed bit for framers, electricians, plumbers, and remodelers who need a fast, maintainable 1-3/8 in. solution for wood. It cuts quickly, produces clean-enough holes with no plug to wrestle, and the replaceable screw plus resharpenable cutters extend its service life. You do need the right drill and technique—particularly in wet or gummy stock—to avoid stalls. If you primarily bore in dry framing and pair it with a proper high-torque drill, it’s a reliable, efficient addition to the kit. If you’re limited to a compact drill or you often work in saturated PT, expect to slow down and peck drill, or consider a hole saw for those specific conditions.