iGeelee Ratchet Knockout Hole Punch Driver Kits 1/2 to 2 inch SLUG-Buster Knockout Electrical Conduit Hole Cutter Set KO Tool Kit

Cutting clean conduit knockouts is one of those jobs where the right tool lets you work smarter, not harder. After several weeks using the iGeelee knockout set across electrical boxes, enclosures, and some thin-gauge sheet projects, I’ve come away impressed by how reliably it produces round, burr-light holes with far less fuss than a step bit or hole saw.

What’s in the kit and how it’s built

This is a straightforward, manual ratcheting knockout kit that covers the common conduit trade sizes from 1/2 inch up through 2 inches. The dies are marked in metric (22.5, 28.3, 34.6, 43.2, 49.6, 61.5 mm), which correspond to typical actual hole diameters for 1/2–2 inch knockouts. The kit includes:
- Six punch/die pairs
- Two draw studs (small and large)
- A ratchet handle with an extended, ergonomic grip
- A connector/adaptor for the ratchet
- A basic wrench and a set of drill bits for pilot holes
- A molded red plastic case

The punches are of the split “slug-buster” style that shears the slug into two crescents. That design matters: the waste doesn’t jam inside the die, and the cut tends to leave a slightly chamfered, cleaner edge.

The overall fit and finish are good for a non-hydraulic, manual kit. The dies are sharp out of the box, size markings are clear, and the molded case keeps everything in order so you’re not clinking around a pile of loose steel in the van. The included ratchet is light-duty but functional; I’ll get into where it excels and where I swap it out for other options.

Setup and workflow

Using the kit is simple and repeatable:
1. Mark the center point and center-punch it so the pilot bit doesn’t wander.
2. Drill a pilot hole sized for the draw stud: typically 3/8 inch for the smaller punches and 3/4 inch for the larger ones. A step bit makes this quick in metal.
3. Assemble the punch on one side, the die on the other, and run the draw stud through. Hand-tighten to snug.
4. Use the ratchet or a wrench to pull the punch through the material. You’ll feel one “pop” and then a second as the slug splits; one more quarter-turn usually crisps the edge.
5. Back it off, catch the two crescent slugs, and you’re done.

The routine is faster than drilling with progressively larger bits or wrangling hole saws, and it’s much kinder to the workpiece. The hole lands precisely where you laid it out, and the panel doesn’t twist or chatter.

Performance on different materials

• Mild steel: On electrical boxes, raceway, and light enclosures, the set makes clean holes with minimal burrs. I’ve had the best results in thin to mid-gauge steel—think typical J-boxes and control enclosures. As the gauge gets thicker and the diameter increases, torque goes up quickly. For 1-1/4 to 2 inches in thicker steel, plan on using lubricant and a longer wrench or powered ratchet to make it comfortable.
• Aluminum: Cuts cleanly and easily. Keep the die faces clean so aluminum doesn’t smear; a bit of wax-based lube works well.
• Plastic and fiberglass: Excellent results with the punches; the shear action limits cracking compared to saws. Support the back with a wood block to prevent flex and keep the cut crisp.

Edges typically need little more than a quick pass with a deburring tool or a swipe with emery cloth, especially on the larger sizes.

Ergonomics and the ratchet

The extended handle gives useful leverage, and the head engagement on the draw stud is secure. For small and mid-size holes, the included ratchet is convenient and keeps the kit self-contained. Once you step up to the larger dies—1-1/4 inch and above—I prefer a box wrench or a low-torque battery ratchet. It’s not that the included ratchet fails; it’s just easier to apply smooth, even force with a sturdier handle and maintain alignment on the work.

One small ergonomic plus: because the die is split, the torque curve is predictable. You don’t get that sudden, unnerving lurch you can get when a hole saw breaks through.

Accuracy and hole quality

The dies produce true, round holes at the expected conduit trade dimensions. Couplings and fittings seat properly, and locknuts bite evenly. Because the slug is split, there’s rarely anything to fish out of the die, and the cut edge has a slight chamfer that reduces burrs. For cabinet work and gland plate penetrations, that detail saves time and cleanup.

Durability and maintenance

The cutting edges hold up well if you respect a few simple rules:
- Lubricate both the draw stud threads and the die faces. Cutting oil or a drop of light grease on the threads makes a big difference.
- Clear chips often. Fine metallic grit can gall threads if you run them dry and dirty.
- Avoid impact wrenches. A gentle, steady pull protects the threads and keeps the cut smooth.

On the larger die sizes, you’ll be putting real torque through the draw stud. The kit’s studs are adequate, but they’re not indestructible. If you feel the threads start to drag, back off, clean, and re-lube. I keep a small thread chaser handy; a quick pass keeps things moving freely and adds a lot of life to the hardware. Do that, and the kit holds up well for regular, non-production use.

Speed vs. alternatives

Compared to step bits:
- Faster and more consistent on larger diameters
- Less heat, less burr, and no out-of-round egging
- Requires a pilot hole but no escalating bit sizes

Compared to hole saws:
- Cleaner, more accurate holes with no tooth snagging
- No saw arbor to fight or teeth to dull on thin sheet
- Lower risk of distortion on light enclosures

Hydraulic punch sets are faster and require less effort, but they’re also heavier, costlier, and overkill for occasional runs. This manual set hits a solid middle ground.

Where it shines, and where it doesn’t

Shines:
- Electrical knockouts in boxes and enclosures up to 2 inches
- Panel work where edge cleanliness matters
- Occasional to moderate use in a shop or field kit
- Mixed materials—steel, aluminum, plastics—without swapping cutting methods

Less ideal:
- Thick stainless or heavy-gauge steel on the larger diameters
- High-volume production work where hydraulic speed and longevity pay off
- Anyone expecting to drive it with an impact; that’s a quick path to damaged threads

Tips for best results

• Mark center lines and use a center punch; accuracy here is everything.
• Choose the correct draw stud (small vs. large) for the die size.
• Lube threads and die faces. Cutting oil for steel; wax works nicely for aluminum.
• Tighten until you feel the second pop, then give it a small extra turn for a cleaner edge.
• Keep the die faces and threads clean. A shop rag and a dab of oil after each hole pays dividends.
• For plastic or fiberglass, back the workpiece with wood and go slow.

Value and who it’s for

This kit sits in a sweet spot: significantly more affordable than premium trade sets while delivering hole quality that’s genuinely respectable. If you’re a DIYer, a small shop, or an electrician who needs a reliable manual knockout option without going hydraulic, it’s a compelling choice. Professionals who live in knockout tools every single day might prefer a high-end brand for maximum thread life and heavy-duty studs, but as a primary for light-to-moderate duty or as a backup kit, this one doesn’t feel like a compromise on cut quality.

Recommendation

I recommend the iGeelee knockout set for anyone who needs clean, accurate holes in thin to mid-gauge materials without stepping up to hydraulic gear. It’s easy to use, the dies cut cleanly, and the split-slug design keeps the workflow smooth. Respect the limits, lubricate the threads, and avoid impacts, and you’ll get reliable, round knockouts from 1/2 to 2 inches with minimal cleanup. For the price and performance, it earns a spot in my kit.