Skil The UGLY 9 In. 5-TPI Wood Cutting Reciprocating Saw Blade, 5-Pack

I spent a weekend clearing an overgrown side yard and used the UGLY blade as my primary pruning and wood blade. Between sap-heavy branches, wet pressure-treated offcuts, and a few pieces of composite decking, I got a good sense of where this blade shines and where it asks for a lighter touch.

What it is and how it’s built

This is a 9-inch, 5 TPI pruning/wood blade with fleam-ground teeth. That tooth geometry means it cuts on both the forward and return strokes, and in green wood you can feel it pulling itself through the cut smoothly. The blade is high-carbon steel with a one-piece construction and a universal tang, so it slid right into my saw without fuss. At 9 inches, it’s long enough to tackle 3–7 inch limbs comfortably and still short enough to stay controllable in tighter spots.

The construction skews toward flexibility rather than tank-like stiffness. That’s typical for high-carbon steel pruning blades: they feel sharper out of the box than many bi-metal demolition blades, but they don’t love nails or abusive pinches, and they rely on technique more than brute force.

Setup and fit

No drama here. The universal tang seated tightly in my quick-change chuck and didn’t introduce any noticeable play. With the shoe planted and orbital mode engaged, the blade tracked straight in most cuts. The 9-inch length let me undercut limbs and reach into crotches without the nose banging into adjacent branches.

Cutting performance in green wood

On green branches between 2 and 5 inches, the UGLY blade is in its element. The 5 TPI profile clears chips well, and the fleam-ground teeth feel eager without grabbing. I used a relaxed feed pressure and medium-to-high strokes per minute; the saw’s weight and the two-direction cut did the heavy lifting. The result was quick cuts with a fairly smooth face for a coarse blade. I could flush-trim small stubs by feathering the shoe and nudging the tip without excessive chatter.

Where this blade really earns its keep is on awkward, slightly springy limbs. Some pruning blades with straight-ground teeth will rattle or skate at the start of a cut; this one bites predictably and settles in. I also found it forgiving when the kerf started to close—the flexible spine resisted sudden kinks as long as I wasn’t forcing it.

Performance on construction lumber and composites

Switching to carpentry scraps changed the story a bit, as expected. In wet pressure-treated 2x and 4x stock, the UGLY blade remained competent. It made steady progress with a modest feed and produced chunkier chips that cleared the kerf well. If I leaned on the saw to speed things up, the blade let me know: vibration increased, the stroke felt bogged down, and the cut slowed. Backing off to let the teeth do the work restored pace and smoothness.

On dry, dense material—old 4x fence posts and kiln-dried 2x—this blade is serviceable but not fast. A thicker bi-metal demolition blade with similar or slightly higher TPI will generally feel stiffer, tolerate more feed pressure, and track straighter in those cuts. In composite decking, the coarse tooth left a ragged edge; fine work isn’t this blade’s mission.

Speed, smoothness, and control

Speed in green wood is the draw here. The two-direction cut and 5 TPI pattern give a strong, rhythmic bite that’s easy to control. I could keep the saw steady with one hand while supporting branches with the other and still get predictable results. In drier and denser stock, I had to be patient. The moment I tried to muscle the cut, the blade telegraphed its displeasure with extra vibration and a tendency to wander.

One note on plunge cuts: the flexible nose will plunge, but it’s not as confidence-inspiring as a thicker demolition blade. For decking cutouts or tight holes, I’d switch blades.

Flex, deflection, and kinking

Flexibility is both a feature and a limitation. It helps prevent sudden binds from turning into catastrophic kinks, and it contributes to a smoother feel in green, fibrous material. But you still need to manage the kerf. On one 4-inch sapling stump, I skipped the relief cut, let the kerf pinch near the bottom, and put a slight “S” bend in the blade. I could straighten it by hand and finish the job, but once a blade has kinked, it’s more prone to wandering in subsequent cuts. Technique matters:

• Make a short undercut to relieve the bark and reduce pinching.
• Keep the shoe planted; don’t saw with the blade hanging mid-span.
• Use a relaxed feed; let the tooth geometry work.

Follow those, and the blade stays true and productive.

Durability and edge life

Through a half-day of yard cleanup—dozens of cuts in green maple, elm, and a few wet PT scraps—the UGLY blade kept a keen edge. The fleam-ground teeth are sharp but not invincible. Dirt, sand, or a hidden staple will take the edge off quickly. That’s the trade-off with high-carbon steel: great initial bite and speed in wood, faster wear if you meet abrasive contaminants. If your day involves nail-embedded lumber, this isn’t the right blade family; use bi-metal or carbide-tooth demolition blades instead.

Heat buildup wasn’t a problem in green wood. In dry lumber, extended cuts did discolor the blade slightly. Rotating to a fresh blade at that point preserved performance.

Value and pack format

Sold in a 5-pack, the UGLY blades make sense for seasonal pruning, storm cleanup, or general yard work. I appreciated not having to baby a single blade—if I dulled one in soil or kinked it, I could swap and keep moving. For frequent demolition in mixed materials, you’ll go through these faster than bi-metal options, so value depends on the work.

Who it’s for

• Homeowners and landscapers who need fast, predictable cuts in green wood and wet lumber.
• DIYers clearing fence lines, shrubs, or small trees where a chainsaw is overkill or awkward.
• Anyone who prefers lighter feed pressure and smoother starts over brute-force, slam-it-through cuts.

Not the best fit for:

• Demolition with unknown fasteners.
• Plunge-heavy carpentry tasks in dense, dry stock where a thicker, stiffer blade tracks better.
• Fine-finish cuts in plywood or composites.

Tips for best results

• Use orbital action if your saw has it; it pairs well with the tooth geometry.
• Plant the shoe firmly and keep the work supported to avoid pinching.
• Make a quick undercut before a final top cut to prevent bark tear-out on branches.
• Avoid soil contact; even a brief scrape dulls fleam teeth fast.
• If the blade starts to hum and vibrate, lighten your feed. Faster usually comes from less pressure with this blade.
• Swap blades at the first sign of a kink or significant heat discoloration to maintain straight tracking.

The bottom line

The UGLY blade feels purpose-built for pruning and wet-wood tasks. In that lane, it’s quick, controllable, and easy on the hands. The fleam-ground teeth make a meaningful difference in how smoothly the cut starts and how confidently the blade carries through green fibers. Push it into dense, dry lumber with heavy feed and it pushes back—more vibration, slower progress, and a higher chance of deflection. That’s not a flaw so much as a reminder to use the right blade for the job.

Recommendation: I recommend the UGLY blade for pruning, storm cleanup, and general woodcutting where green or wet stock dominates. It’s sharp, forgiving when used with proper technique, and the 5-pack format suits real-world yard work. If your workload leans toward dry construction lumber, nails, or aggressive plunge cuts, pair your kit with stiffer bi-metal or carbide blades and keep these for what they do best: fast, clean pruning in wood.