SoloWilder Fireproof Chimney Webbing Anti Scalding Camping Stove Pipe Wrap Protector with 2 Clamps

A hot tent makes winter nights civilized, but a glowing stovepipe inches from fabric and fingertips deserves respect. I brought the SoloWilder wrap along to give the pipe a buffer—both where it passes through the tent jack and on the first section above the stove where accidental contact is most likely. After several outings and some shop tests, here’s how it fared.

What it is and what it isn’t

The SoloWilder wrap is a 5 m (16.4 ft) roll of 5 cm (2 in) wide fiberglass webbing rated for continuous use up to about 400°C/752°F, with brief exposure up to roughly 538°C/1,085°F. It ships with two adjustable stainless-style clamps sized for 2.4–3.5 in diameter pipes. The promise is straightforward: create a noncombustible sleeve to shield tent fabric near the jack and take the sting out of accidental touches on the pipe.

Important note: this is fiberglass webbing, not a silicone-coated sleeve or ceramic tape. It’s noncombustible and does not melt, but it can shed fibers during handling. More on that below.

Installation and first impressions

• Clamp sizing: The included clamps are fine on small pipes in the 2.4–3.5 in range—typical of many ultralight titanium stove systems. On 5 in steel stovepipe sections, the clamps simply don’t reach. I paired the wrap with larger worm-drive stainless clamps (4–6 in range) from the hardware store to cover bigger pipes. Plan for this if your pipe exceeds 3.5 in.

• Handling the webbing: Out of the package, the roll is neatly wound and easy to measure and cut. Edges will fray when cut, as you’d expect from woven fiberglass. I had the best results sealing cut ends by folding an inch back on itself under the clamp; you can also whip the ends with stainless safety wire. Avoid standard tapes near the stove body—they can cook off.

• Personal protective gear: Wear gloves, long sleeves, and eye protection when cutting and wrapping. The product is fiberglass; loose fibers can irritate skin and eyes. I also tossed on a dust mask for installation at home. A quick vacuum around the work area afterwards kept stray fibers from lingering.

• Fit and layering: For tent jacks, I wrapped two to three layers where the pipe passes the cutout to create a slightly cushioned, non-sparking buffer. On the first pipe section above the stove, I used one to two layers to reduce surface temperature without trapping excessive heat. Because the webbing is only 2 inches wide, you’ll be spiraling it up the pipe with 50–70% overlap where more padding is needed.

The roll length is generous. Even after double-layering a jack and covering a couple of pipe sections, I still had material left over.

Performance in the field

• Heat shielding at the jack: The biggest win was at the tent interface. On a moderate burn, the fabric around the jack remained relaxed and cool to the touch, and the metal collar stayed well below “singe the finger” temperatures. The wrap creates a forgiving band between a hot pipe and a soft boundary, and it makes micro-adjustments easier because the edge of the jack rides on fabric instead of smooth metal.

• Touch protection above the stove: Don’t mistake the wrap for a “safe to touch” surface—hot is still hot—but the difference is meaningful. With a fast burn, the wrapped section felt notably cooler than adjacent bare pipe. It buys you a margin against accidental brushes, especially in cramped shelters.

• Heat tolerance and discoloration: Running a compact titanium tent stove hard, the section within about 6–8 inches of the stove collar is where temperatures spike. Here, a single wrap layer showed light discoloration and a faint toasted look at overlaps after extended firing, but no structural failure or melting. On larger steel stoves with 5 in pipe, I kept the wrap an inch or two above the collar to avoid the absolute hottest zone and had no issues. The published continuous rating feels accurate; keep it off any area you expect to hit red-hot temps.

• Odor on first burns: Expect a noticeable, somewhat chemical smell the first time the wrap sees heat. That’s typical of sizing/binders in fiberglass textiles being cooked off. My advice is to “pre-bake” a cut piece outdoors on a scrap pipe or the stove pipe before the trip. Let it heat, ventilate well, and run it for 20–30 minutes. After a couple of heat cycles, the odor largely disappeared in my use.

Comfort and safety considerations

Fiberglass is effective but not pleasant to handle. The wrap will shed some fiber during installation and when you trim it. Small actions help a lot:

• Wear gloves, long sleeves, and eye protection.
• Work outdoors or in a well-ventilated area, and vacuum afterwards.
• Pre-fit and trim before you’re inside a tent.
• Pre-bake outside to clear the initial odor and any sizing.

Once installed, I didn’t have fibers actively shedding into the tent during use, but any time you rework the wrap or add layers, you’ll stir it up again. If you’re especially sensitive to fiberglass or plan to adjust often inside a shelter, consider an alternative material such as basalt fiber or ceramic fiber tape, which tend to be less irritating (though often bulkier or pricier).

Durability

After multiple trips, the wrap’s weave remained intact, with some expected fuzzing at edges. It doesn’t turn brittle or crumble. Clamps held tension, and I had better long-term luck with quality stainless clamps purchased separately for larger pipes. The webbing will pick up soot; it doesn’t wipe perfectly clean, but a stiff brush improves things. Because it doesn’t melt, embers that land on it flick off without fusing.

What I’d change

• Include clamp options: Offering a kit with both small and large clamps (up to 5 in) would better match common camp stove systems.

• Edge treatment: A pre-sealed edge or supplied stainless wire for whipping cut ends would cut down on fray and fiber release.

• Documentation: A clear installation guide and a big reminder to pre-bake and wear protective gear would set better expectations and improve user experience.

Where it shines, where it doesn’t

• Great for:

  • Small-diameter tent stove pipes (2.4–3.5 in) using the included clamps.
  • Adding a forgiving buffer where the pipe passes a tent jack.
  • Reducing burn risk on first pipe sections above the stove (not eliminating it).
  • Temporary shielding on exhaust segments or gas lines that stay within the stated temperature range.

• Not ideal for:

  • The immediate collar area on larger stoves where temps can exceed continuous ratings.
  • Users who are highly sensitive to fiberglass, or who need to adjust wraps frequently inside a closed shelter.
  • Anyone expecting a zero-odor first burn; plan to pre-bake outdoors.

Tips for best results

• Pre-bake outdoors before your first trip to burn off sizing and reduce odor.
• Use proper-sized stainless clamps or stainless wire. Don’t rely on household tapes near the hot zone.
• Double or triple layer at the tent jack; single or double on the first pipe section.
• Keep the wrap an inch or two above the stove collar if you run your stove hot.
• Pack a small brush to clean soot and a spare clamp for field tweaks.

Value

You get a lot of material for the price: 5 meters is enough for multiple wraps and generous layering. If your pipe size fits the included clamps, you’re set out of the box. If you’re running 4–5 in pipe, budget a little extra for larger clamps. Considering the protection it adds in a hot tent, it’s a cost-effective safety upgrade, provided you handle it properly.

Recommendation

I recommend the SoloWilder wrap with clear caveats. It’s an effective, budget-friendly way to add heat shielding at the tent jack and reduce the risk of burns on stovepipes, and it holds up well within its stated temperature range. However, it is fiberglass: installation requires gloves and care, pre-baking is wise to minimize odor, and those with larger pipes will need to supply their own clamps. If you understand those trade-offs and follow basic safety steps, it’s a practical piece of kit. If fiberglass irritation or any initial off-gassing is a nonstarter for you, look to basalt or ceramic alternatives instead.