DeWalt 2-1/2 in x .035 in x 1/4 in Die Grinder Wheels (Type 1)

Why I reached for these 2-1/2-inch cutoffs

Tight quarters are where small die grinder wheels shine, and that’s exactly where the DW8703 wheels earned their spot in my kit. Think trimming a welded bracket inside a frame rail, nipping a seized bolt flush, or making a relief cut on a stainless clamp where a 4-1/2-inch grinder simply doesn’t fit. In those moments, a thin Type 1 wheel on a die grinder is the right tool—and these DeWalt wheels feel purpose-built for that niche.

Build and specs that matter in use

The DW8703 wheels are Type 1 (flat) die grinder cutoffs with a 2-1/2-inch diameter, a 0.035-inch kerf, and a 1/4-inch arbor hole to run on a mandrel. The wheel uses aluminum oxide grain in a proprietary bond, and it’s reinforced with two full sheets of fiberglass. On paper, that reads as standard fare; in hand, the reinforcement is immediately noticeable. The wheels are rigid enough to track true under light pressure without that wobbly, harmonics-prone feel cheaper discs sometimes have.

They’re part of a small family: two abrasive grades (A36T for faster, more aggressive cutting; A60T for cleaner edges and longer life) and thickness options geared to use-case—0.035 and 1/16 inch for cutting, and 1/8 inch for peripheral grinding. My testing focused on the 0.035-inch A36T and A60T wheels, with occasional swaps to the 1/16-inch version for durability checks.

Setup and compatibility

These wheels are designed for ferrous metals and stainless. I’ve had good results on mild steel plate up to 3/16 inch, angle, threaded rod, and 304 stainless brackets. They’re not intended for aluminum or copper—aluminum oxide will load quickly on soft non-ferrous stock—so keep a dedicated non-loading disc for those.

Mounting is straightforward: use a quality 1/4-inch arbor mandrel with a 1/4-inch shank that fits your die grinder collet. Make sure the flanges sandwich enough surface to keep the wheel flat and centered, and verify your grinder’s free speed doesn’t exceed the wheel’s printed maximum RPM. If your die grinder supports a cut-off guard, use it. On unguarded bodies, I position the tool so the wheel throws sparks away and can’t climb toward me if it binds.

Cutting performance

• Start-up and tracking: The wheels spin up cleanly with minimal flutter. On a straight or right-angle die grinder, they track accurately along a scribed line without wander. That’s where the fiberglass layers pay off; there’s a “planted” feel even at full speed.

• Speed vs. pressure: They like full RPM and light, steady pressure. Pushing harder doesn’t noticeably speed the cut; it just heats the kerf and eats the wheel. With light pressure, the A36T grade in particular throws a consistent stream of fine sparks and moves quickly through 1/8-inch mild steel.

• Cut depth reality: At 2-1/2 inches, you’re not chasing deep cuts. For anything thicker than about 3/16-inch plate or larger diameter tube, I make score passes and flip the work if possible. If you routinely need deeper reach, a 3-inch wheel is the more practical size.

A36T vs. A60T: choosing the right grade

• A36T (coarser, “T” hardness): My choice for quick sectioning of mild steel fasteners, small brackets, and rusty hardware. It bites faster and clears debris well. The tradeoff is slightly rougher edges and marginally shorter life.

• A60T (finer, same hardness): Better for stainless and any cut where I care about finish and heat input. It runs a touch slower but leaves a cleaner edge with less burr and less chance of blueing thin stainless. Life per wheel is noticeably longer in the same material.

Both grades feel stable; neither smears or glazes prematurely if you keep pressure reasonable.

Durability and life

The proprietary bond here hits a useful middle ground. These are not ceramic-grain “hot rod” wheels, but they hold diameter respectably and resist chunking at the edge if you avoid side loading. On repetitive work—short cuts on 1/8-inch stock—I can make multiple clean passes before I notice a step down in cutting speed. The 1/16-inch variant lasts longer when cuts are less delicate and access allows a slightly thicker kerf.

Abuse tolerance is typical of a thin Type 1 wheel: bind the kerf or twist the grinder and any disc can fracture. The fiberglass layering gives a margin of safety, but technique still matters. If you need to lean on the wheel laterally or do any meaningful edge chamfering, the 1/8-inch peripheral grinding option is the safer pick.

Cut quality and heat

With the 0.035-inch kerf, cuts are crisp and narrow. On mild steel, burr formation is modest and easy to knock down with a quick pass of a file or a flap wheel. On stainless, the A60T grade helps keep heat in check; I still pause occasionally to let the work cool when trimming thin gauge stainless to avoid discoloration.

The spark stream is fine and predictable, and the bond sheds abrasive smoothly instead of shedding chunky grit. That translates to fewer micro-hops as you reach the end of a cut.

Safety, technique, and best results

A few habits that paid off with these wheels:

• Let the wheel do the work; use light, steady pressure.
• Square the wheel to the cut and avoid side loading.
• Score first on thicker material, then deepen the groove rather than trying to plunge to full depth.
• Clamp the work. Thin wheels hate movement in the kerf.
• Keep the wheel shank and mandrel tight, and recheck after the first few cuts.
• Always confirm the wheel’s max RPM; most die grinders spin fast.

I also like to start a cut slightly away from the final line, then come back for a final, light pass. The wheels are thin enough that this approach leaves a cleaner edge and reduces the chance of pinching as the waste drops.

Comparisons and value

Against premium ceramic-grain small wheels (think high-end industrial discs), these DeWalt wheels cut a bit slower but cost significantly less per piece, especially in the 50-pack. Compared to generic import wheels, they track truer, shed less unpredictably, and last longer in stainless. In tight quarters, consistency counts more than headline speed, and that’s where they earn their keep.

If you primarily cut heavy cross-sections or need deeper reach, a larger diameter or a ceramic-grain wheel will outperform them. For aluminum, reach for a dedicated non-loading disc; these are for ferrous and stainless.

Who they’re for

• Fabricators and mechanics who need to make accurate cuts in confined spaces.
• Anyone working on chassis brackets, exhaust hangers, small fasteners, or stainless trim where a 4-1/2-inch grinder is too big.
• Users who value a reliable, predictable wheel with clear grade choices (A36T for speed, A60T for finish and life).

If you want to use a die grinder wheel as a general-purpose grinder, step up to the 1/8-inch peripheral grinding option; thin Type 1 wheels are for cutting, not lateral grinding.

Final recommendation

I recommend the DW8703 wheels for tight-access cutting on ferrous metals and stainless. They track true, cut predictably at full die grinder speed, and offer sensible choices between aggressive (A36T) and cleaner, longer-running (A60T) performance. The two-layer fiberglass reinforcement adds confidence without making the wheel feel stiff or grabby, and the 50-pack delivers consistent results at a fair cost per cut. They do demand a steady hand and proper technique—as all thin Type 1 wheels do—and they’re not a solution for non-ferrous materials or deep cuts. But used as intended, they’re a dependable, compact cutting option I’m happy to keep within reach.