DeWalt 6 in. x 4 in. Stainless Steel Hand Edger

A compact, stainless workhorse for cleaner concrete edges

I put the DeWalt edger through a series of small slab and step pours this season—sidewalk panels, a porch repair, and a couple of pads—and it’s become one of those tools I keep near the top of the bucket. It isn’t fancy, but it does the essential thing an edger should do: form a consistent radius, protect the slab edge from chipping, and glide without fighting you.

Build and ergonomics

This is a 6 x 4 in. stainless steel edger with a 3/8 in. radius and a 1/2 in. lip. The body is polished stainless, not painted or plated, and it has a closed, soft-grip rubber handle. At 0.55 lb, it’s light without feeling flimsy. The handle is truly ambidextrous, and the contour fits cleanly in hand with or without gloves. Grip is confident even when the tool is wet or covered in cream.

The lifted ends on the blade are subtle but effective, keeping the corners from catching when you rotate into or out of the pass. That matters when you’re edging against forms or around a step nosing where one miscue can gouge the surface.

The stainless plate is flat and true; the lip and radius are cleanly formed with no sharp burrs out of the box on my sample. The handle supports are spot-welded to the plate. I’ll talk about how those welds affect finish quality in a moment.

Performance on green concrete

With edging, timing is everything. I had the best results taking the first pass shortly after the bleed water flashed off and the surface could hold a light tool without tearing. The DeWalt edger tracks predictably at that point. The 3/8 in. radius is a common sidewalk and patio profile, and it reads well—enough round to soften the edge and reduce chipping without looking bulbous.

The 1/2 in. lip does two things. First, it helps you set a consistent depth without digging into the face. Second, it packs the cream against the form line and casts off aggregate, which reduces the chance of spalls as the slab cures and sees traffic. On corners, the lifted ends reduce the risk of digging a divot when you pivot. I could move at a steady pace and get clean, continuous edges without having to “rescue” mistakes.

I like the 4 in. width for steps and tight spots. It’s nimble around re-entrant corners and drain boxes. For long runs on sidewalks, an 8 in. plate will feel more stable, but the 6 x 4 size here is a good compromise for general use.

Finish quality and the weld issue

One quirk is worth calling out: the handle support welds faintly telegraph through the sole on this tool. On my unit, there are six small weld areas that you can just barely feel if you run a fingernail across the bottom. On open, green concrete, those don’t matter because you’re running on the radius and lip more than the flat. But if you try to use the edger as a mini-trowel to feather the field immediately adjacent to the edge, those tiny dimples can leave light witness marks in very creamy mixes or on resurfacing overlays.

Mitigation is straightforward:
- Use a separate trowel or magnesium float for the flat area right after the edge pass. That’s best practice anyway.
- Keep pressure on the lip and radius, not the plate center, as you move.
- If you want to tune the tool, you can kiss the sole with a fine stone or Scotch-Brite to blur any high spot from the welds. Don’t overdo it—you’re just breaking micro edges, not regrinding the tool.

For typical pours, I didn’t see the welds print once I stuck to using it strictly as an edger and kept the plate off the field. On a thin overlay where every mark shows, I switched to a separate edging tool with a fully dead-flat sole for the final cosmetic pass.

Consistency of the radius and lip

The radius is consistent across the width, and the transition into the lifted ends is smooth. That’s more important than it sounds; an uneven radius telegraphs as a wobbly shadow line after cure. I checked the 3/8 in. spec with a gauge and it’s right on. The lip depth is also uniform, so your edge reads the same panel to panel.

One habit that helps: don’t saw back and forth. Make one clean pass once the slab supports it, float the field, then a second light pass to sharpen the edge. Overworking any edger will darken the edge, bring up excessive cream, and risk micro-cracking at the corner.

Comfort and control

The closed rubber handle earns its keep when you’re doing a lot of panels in a row. It isolates vibration, gives a reliable grip in wet cement, and it’s easy to steer using just finger pressure. I can run it right-handed against a form, switch hands, and come back the other way without feeling awkward. If you prefer an open wood handle, this will feel different at first, but the closed loop offers better control against kick-out when you hit aggregate.

Only minor downside: the closed handle does trap a bit of slurry, so rinse it promptly before things start to set inside the frame.

Durability and maintenance

Stainless steel is the right call here. It resists rust, wipes clean, and doesn’t need oiling. After multiple uses and a couple of forgetful rides in the truck bed, there’s no corrosion and only normal scuffing. The plate hasn’t warped, and the radius hasn’t flattened.

Cleanup is simple: hose it off immediately after use, hit stubborn paste with a plastic scraper, and give the sole a quick wipe so it stays slick. If you’re pouring in sandy conditions, a rinse during the job keeps grit off the sole and prevents scratches that can drag fines.

The soft-grip handle shows no signs of delamination or tearing. Welds are secure and haven’t loosened. There’s a one-year warranty, but this is the kind of tool that should last years if you don’t abuse it.

Where it shines, and where it doesn’t

Strengths:
- Clean, consistent 3/8 in. radius common to sidewalks, patios, and small pads.
- Light, controllable, and comfortable for long sessions.
- Stainless steel stays straight and rust-free with minimal care.
- Lifted ends and a true lip make it forgiving for intermediate users.

Limitations:
- Slight weld telegraphing on the sole means it’s not ideal as a combination edger/trowel on delicate overlays or ultra-cream finishes.
- The 4 in. width is nimble but less stable than wider plates for long, straight runs.
- If you need a different profile (1/4 in. or 1/2 in. radius), this fixed 3/8 in. won’t be a one-tool solution.

Tips from the slab

• Wait for bleed water to flash off before the first pass; too early and you’ll tear the surface.
• Keep the tool slightly tipped onto the lip as you start, then roll into full contact as you move.
• Edge, float the field, then make a light second pass to sharpen the corner.
• Rinse the sole periodically if sand starts to scratch the finish.

What I’d change

I’d like to see the welds fully dressed and the sole dead-flat between the radius and lip. It wouldn’t change edging performance, but it would eliminate the potential for witness marks if you drift onto the field. A slightly wider 6 x 5 or 8 x 4 version would also be welcome for long sidewalk runs while keeping this nimble 6 x 4 option for steps and tight corners.

Recommendation

I recommend the DeWalt edger for general concrete work—sidewalks, patios, steps, and small pads—where a 3/8 in. radius is appropriate. It’s comfortable, tracks well, holds up to jobsite abuse, and forms a clean edge that resists chipping. If your workflow expects an edger to double as a trowel right up against the field on very thin overlays, the faint weld telegraphing makes this a less ideal choice for that specific task. For everyone else, it’s a reliable, low-maintenance, stainless workhorse that does exactly what an edger should do and makes it easier to get pro-looking edges without fuss.