DeWalt Drywall Blade (50-Pack)

I spend a lot of time scoring drywall on site and in the shop, so I pay attention to the little things that make that job cleaner and faster. These DeWalt drywall blades have been in my knife for a few weeks now, and they’ve settled into a sweet spot: sharp out of the box, durable in abrasive gypsum, and clearly marked so they don’t get mixed into the general-purpose pile.

What stands out right away

• The edge feels keen without being fragile. The grind starts the cut easily and tracks straight along a T-square without wandering.
• The blades are induction hardened (DeWalt’s S3 tech), which shows up in how slowly the edge loses its bite in drywall paper.
• “DRYWALL” is laser-etched on each blade. It sounds like a small thing, but it prevents these from drifting into roofing, carpet, or demo, where they’d get chewed up or, worse, leave you hunting for the right blade mid-task.
• At 0.019 inches thick and 2 inches long, they’re the standard trapezoid profile that fits any typical fixed or folding utility knife.

Out of the pack, they’re clean. There’s none of the heavy cutting oil film you sometimes get with bulk blades that ends up on your fingers and drywall paper. I pulled a fresh blade, snapped it into a fixed DeWalt handle and a Milwaukee folding utility knife to check fit—no slop in either, positive lock-up, and no trouble with quick-change mechanisms.

Cutting performance

Drywall is a weird mix of soft and abrasive: a paper face that needs a clean slice and gypsum that sands away edges fast. These blades hit a nice balance. On 1/2-inch board, I consistently needed one confident score and a light second pass only where I wasn’t pressing hard or the paper had a rough patch. The grind seems optimized for the paper; it bites right away, so I don’t find myself scratching a shallow line and making extra passes just to get the cut started.

Cutouts around boxes are tidy. The tip doesn’t chip easily, and it holds geometry after a handful of plunge starts. For long rips, the blade tracks the straightedge with minimal chatter. I also tried them on 5/8-inch Type X. As expected, it’s a bit more effort, but the blade still made clean paper cuts and didn’t skid across the face when starting a score at an angle.

On “similar sheet materials,” I used them to trim foam board, score cementitious backer board to a scribe (not to snap), and cut heavy cardboard. They’re fine for those tasks. I wouldn’t pick them as a dedicated blade for cement board or anything with embedded mesh—the edge will blunt fast and you’ll waste a good blade—but they finish the job in a pinch.

Edge life and durability

Induction hardening shows up the more sheets you process in a row. With generic blades, I usually flip after three or four 8-foot rips to keep the paper cut clean and prevent fuzzing. With these, I consistently get roughly double that before flipping, and then another several passes on the second edge. That’s not lab-grade testing; it’s just what I’m seeing on site with typical 1/2-inch board and a mix of long rips and smaller cuts.

At 0.019 inches thick, they’re stiffer than the flimsiest blades but not as stout as heavy-duty 0.025 blades. For drywall, that’s a good tradeoff. The blade resists flexing enough to keep cuts straight, yet it doesn’t fight you in tight plunge cuts. Don’t use them as a scraper or pry bar—lateral forces will still snap any utility blade—but they shrug off normal drywall work without chipping.

If you do hit a screw or clip, the edge will micro-chip, like any hardened blade. That’s not a fault; it’s a reminder to let a rasp handle proud spots rather than forcing the knife through hardware.

The “DRYWALL” etch matters more than you think

I keep multiple blade types in the pouch: hook blades, heavy-duty general-purpose, and a few specialty profiles. The laser-etched “DRYWALL” on these stands up to use and makes it dead simple to identify the right blade fast. It also keeps them from migrating into tasks that dull them prematurely. I’ve tried color-coded sleeves and markers in the past—those wear off. The etch doesn’t.

Fit and compatibility

Standard two-notch trapezoid profile, 2 inches long, 0.019 thick. They worked in every knife I tried: fixed-handle, folding, and a couple of auto-load models that pull from a magazine in the handle. The stampings are consistent, so you don’t get that occasional blade that refuses to latch in a quick-change mechanism. No burrs on the spine or mounting holes.

Where they shine

• Scoring and snapping long rips in 1/2- and 5/8-inch drywall
• Clean cutouts around electrical boxes and fixtures
• Situations where you want fewer passes and less fuzz on the paper face
• Crew environments where blade mix-ups happen

Limitations

• They’re purpose-built. If you’re cutting roofing shingles, carpet, or doing demo through unknowns, a heavier-duty general blade or a hook blade is smarter.
• 0.019 thickness is right for drywall, but it’s not the best for aggressive scraping or prying. If you abuse blades that way, you’ll prefer thicker stock.
• Like any hardened edge, they don’t love contact with metal. Plan around screws and edges rather than plowing through them.

Value and the 50-pack factor

A 50-pack makes sense if you’re hanging board regularly or outfitting a crew. You’re not constantly nursing one dull blade because you’re down to the last two in a ten-pack. The edge life advantage goes a long way here: even if these cost a bit more than generic blades, needing fewer changes per day and getting cleaner cuts pays back quickly. There’s also a small safety and quality benefit: fresh, sharp blades are less likely to skid off a line and more likely to make a crisp cut on the first pass.

I would like to see every bulk pack come with a simple spent-blade compartment or sleeve. I use a separate sharps container, so it’s not a dealbreaker, but it’s worth noting if your current system depends on packaging for disposal. Otherwise, bulk is the right way to buy specialty blades.

Tips for getting the most from them

• Let the grind do the work. A firm, single score with a light follow-up beats four or five light scratches.
• Flip early. Don’t ride a dull edge into fuzzy cuts—turn the blade to the fresh edge as soon as you feel drag increase.
• Keep them for drywall tasks. Use general-purpose or hook blades for abrasive or gummy materials to preserve the edge life here.
• Avoid side loads. If you need to lift or pry, switch to a scraper or a thicker blade.

Bottom line

These DeWalt drywall blades make drywall work smoother: they start cuts cleanly, hold an edge longer than the generic blades I’ve used, and the laser etch removes guesswork in the pouch. The 0.019-inch thickness hits the right balance for scoring—stiff enough to track, thin enough to plunge and steer without fighting you.

Recommendation: I recommend these if you cut drywall regularly or value clean, first-pass scores. The edge life in gypsum and the consistent grind justify keeping a dedicated stack for drywall, and the 50-pack is practical for both solo installers and small crews. If you mostly do rough demo or non-drywall materials, a heavier-duty general blade might be a better primary choice—but for drywall-specific work, these belong in your knife.