Southwire 13054226 14/2 UF W/G Hundred' Wire, Gray, Hundred Ft

What it is

Southwire’s 14/2 UF cable is a straightforward, no-nonsense solution for running a 15A branch circuit outdoors or underground without conduit. It’s a gray, 100‑foot coil with two insulated 14 AWG conductors (black and white) and a bare copper ground, all embedded in a thick, sunlight‑resistant PVC jacket. It’s UL Listed and made in the U.S., and the jacket is rated for damp, wet, and corrosive locations. In short: it’s the classic UF-B “direct burial” cable that most of us reach for when we want a simple, code-compliant run to lights, a small pump, or a modest outbuilding.

I used this cable on two recent projects: a garden lighting circuit that needed to snake under a gravel path, and a short run to a small shed to power a light and a GFCI receptacle. It performed as expected, with a couple of handling quirks typical of UF cable that are worth planning for.

Build and materials

• Jacket: The outer jacket is thick and tough, as UF should be. It resists nicks from rocks and shovels better than NM-B and holds up under direct sunlight. The gray color makes identification easy in a panel or box.
• Conductors: Solid copper, 14 AWG, plus a bare ground. Solid wire is standard at this gauge and contributes to stiffness, which is great for durability but makes termination and routing slightly more finicky than stranded THWN in conduit.
• Ratings: UL Listed for direct burial and wet locations; the jacket is flame retardant and resists moisture, rust, and corrosion.

Nothing fancy here—and that’s a compliment. UF is about ruggedness and reliability, not bells and whistles.

Installation experience

UF’s main trade-off is ease of handling. The jacket and solid conductors make it stiffer than NM-B and much stiffer than THWN in conduit. A few practical notes from my installs:

• Trenching and burial: It lays flat and stays where you put it, which helps when backfilling. I dug clean trenches and set the cable on a bed of sand/soil, then pulled a bit of slack before backfilling to avoid stretched sections. Always verify burial depth and protection requirements with your local code—UF is designed to be buried, but depth and GFCI requirements vary by jurisdiction and application.
• Above-grade transitions: Where the cable emerges from the ground, I protected it with PVC conduit up to termination height. The jacket is tough, but mechanical protection at transitions is just good practice.
• Terminating in boxes: Give yourself room. UF takes up more space than NM-B. Use larger boxes and clamps rated for flat UF cable. The stiffness can make tight bends near device screws frustrating; pre‑shape the wire and don’t be shy about upsizing box volume.
• Stripping the jacket: The jacket is intentionally hard to “skin.” A clean method that worked well: 1) With a sharp utility knife, very lightly score the centerline of the flat jacket—just enough to break the outer layer without nicking insulation. 2) Grip and peel the jacket apart; it will split cleanly once started. 3) Finish each conductor with a proper 14 AWG solid stripper. Resist the temptation to hacksaw the jacket off. If you’re doing many terminations, a dedicated UF cable ripper speeds things up and reduces risk of nicking insulation.
• Cold weather: In cooler temperatures, the cable gets noticeably stiffer. If you can, uncoil and warm it in the sun before running long lengths; it forms easier and fights you less.

Performance and durability

Once installed, it disappears into the job—exactly what I want from a cable. Voltage drop on my 60–75 foot runs was a non-issue with the modest loads I designed for (LED lighting and a single receptacle on a 15A circuit). The jacket shrugged off contact with gravel during backfill, and the sections exposed to sun showed no chalking or softening after weeks of exposure during the build. In damp areas, the cable shows none of the water-wicking you can see with nicked NM-B.

The real performance win here is the peace of mind: UL listing, wet‑location rating, and a jacket built for underground environments. For outdoor branch circuits, it’s a set‑and‑forget solution.

Use cases and limitations

Where it shines:
- Direct-burial lighting circuits for landscapes and paths
- Small outbuildings needing only a light and a receptacle on a 15A circuit
- Pumps and control circuits with low current draw
- Damp or corrosive areas where you want a rugged, sunlight‑resistant cable without running full conduit

Where I’d look elsewhere:
- Higher-load circuits or longer runs where voltage drop matters. If you’re feeding multiple receptacles, heaters, or tools, step up to 12/2 or 10/2 or consider a subpanel with larger conductors.
- Future expansion. Conduit with THWN gives you flexibility to pull additional conductors later.
- Tight interior spaces. UF is allowed indoors, but it’s cumbersome. I often transition to NM-B inside the structure via a junction box.

A quick reminder: 14 AWG dictates a 15A breaker. If you think you might ever want a 20A circuit, choose 12/2 UF from the start.

Alternatives: UF vs conduit

UF is fast and simple: fewer parts, fewer terminations, one trench, lay the cable, backfill. Conduit with THWN adds initial complexity and cost but gives you:
- Easier pulling and terminating (stranded THWN is forgiving)
- Greater mechanical protection for the full run
- Upgrade paths later by pulling new conductors

For short, well-defined circuits—especially lighting—UF is my go-to. For outbuildings that may grow in demand, I lean conduit.

Tips for best results

• Plan box sizes: UF takes volume. Up-size to keep terminations neat and within box fill limits.
• Use proper clamps/staples: Choose those specifically rated for flat UF cable.
• Protect transitions: Sleeve with PVC where the cable emerges from grade or passes through concrete/brick.
• Respect bending radius: Don’t kink it; use gentle sweeps.
• Strip with care: Score lightly and peel; avoid deep cuts that can nick insulation.
• GFCI and labeling: Protect outdoor circuits with GFCI as required and label the breaker clearly.
• Check local code: Burial depth, GFCI, and protection details vary. Code compliance isn’t just about the cable—it’s the whole installation.

Value

As a 100-foot coil, it hits a sweet spot for common residential projects without leaving a ton of leftovers. The build quality is consistent, the jacket is appropriately tough, and the solid copper conductors are exactly what you expect in 14/2 UF. Given the durability and UL listing, the value is strong compared to piecing together conduit for simple runs. You’re paying for a cable that does one job very well.

The bottom line

Southwire’s 14/2 UF cable is a dependable choice for straightforward, 15A outdoor and underground circuits. It’s rugged, properly listed for wet and corrosive environments, and made to be buried. The only real “gotcha” is the handling: the jacket is hard to strip without the right technique, and the cable’s stiffness demands more generous box space and thoughtful routing. Those are features, not bugs, of UF construction, and once you account for them, installation is smooth.

Recommendation: I recommend this cable for anyone running a simple outdoor branch circuit—landscape lighting, a small shed light and receptacle, or a low‑draw pump—who wants the simplicity of direct burial and long-term durability. If you need higher amperage, anticipate future expansion, or prefer easier pulls and terminations, consider upsizing to a heavier gauge or going the conduit/THWN route. For its intended use, this UF cable is exactly what it should be: tough, code‑friendly, and reliable.