Southwire UF-B Underground Feeder Cable, 12/2 AWG, 250 ft

Why I picked up this UF-B cable

I keep a 250-foot spool of UF-B 12/2 on hand for the kinds of jobs that pop up around a property: running a 20A circuit to a detached shed, feeding landscape lighting transformers, or replacing tired underground runs that were spliced too many times. This UF-B cable from Southwire ticks the boxes I care about—durability in soil, code compliance for wet locations, and reliable copper conductors—while coming in a length that actually covers most residential runs without forcing mid-span splices.

Build and ratings

This is a 12/2 UF-B cable: two insulated 12 AWG copper conductors plus a grounding conductor in a tough, moisture-resistant jacket. The conductors are annealed copper, which is the standard for residential branch circuits and holds up well to repeated bends without cracking. Inside, you get PVC insulation and nylon, color-coded conductors, which makes identification straightforward at termination points. The outer jacket is robust and appropriate for direct burial outdoors and use in wet or corrosive indoor spaces like crawlspaces, barns, and utility rooms.

Key points that matter in practice:
- Rated for wet locations and direct burial
- Proper for indoor runs in damp/corrosive environments
- 12 AWG copper supports typical 20A branch circuits (check your local code/NEC)
- UF-B construction resists moisture ingress and mechanical abrasion far better than standard NM-B

While the jacket is not fragile, it’s still flexible enough to route along foundation lines and through short protective conduits where it surfaces. Print on the jacket is easy to read, which is helpful when you’re tracing circuits later.

Installation experience

UF-B cable works best when you plan its path carefully before you ever cut the first trench. Here’s what stood out during installation:

• Trenching and depth: For most residential direct-burial runs, the target depth is commonly 24 inches. In some cases, shallower depths are permitted with GFCI protection and specific conditions. Always check local requirements before you dig. I use a trenching shovel for shorter runs and a rental trencher for anything over 50 feet to keep the trench straight and consistent.

• Handling the spool: A 250-foot coil is hefty. I recommend a simple rod-through-the-core setup so the cable can pay out cleanly as you walk the trench. That alone prevents kinks and saves your back.

• Bending and stapling: UF-B is stiffer than NM-B or THHN in conduit. It holds a bend well once formed, but you’ll need a bit more persuasion at turns, especially in cooler weather. Use staples and clamps rated for UF cable; standard NM staples can pinch or damage the jacket.

• Stripping and terminations: The outer jacket is thick, which is exactly what you want underground but it means you should use a UF cable ripper or a sharp knife with a controlled touch to avoid nicking the insulation. With the jacket off, the color-coded conductors make terminations simple. I like to pre-form conductors to the device lugs; the annealed copper bends without protest.

• Transitions and protection: Where the cable emerges from grade, sleeve it in conduit up to the required height. At building entries, I transition through a short piece of PVC for physical protection and use a connector listed for UF-B.

• Pulling in conduit: You can sleeve UF-B for protection, but don’t plan long conduit pulls—its friction and stiffness make that unpleasant. If you need a long conduit run, THWN conductors are the right tool; UF-B shines when buried directly.

Performance in use

Once buried, this cable behaves like good infrastructure should: it disappears. I’ve used it to supply a 120V, 20A circuit to a small workshop and another run to power exterior receptacles and yard lights. No nuisance tripping, no intermittent faults, and insulation tests read clean before backfilling and after.

A few performance considerations worth noting:
- Voltage drop on long runs: With 12 AWG, heavy loads over long distances can see noticeable voltage drop. At 250 feet one-way, a full 20A load will sag more than is ideal. If your load is modest (say a few amps for lighting), 12 AWG is fine. If you’re feeding power tools, heaters, or multiple receptacles at the far end, consider upsizing to 10 AWG for the feeder or shortening the run by relocating the load or adding a subpanel closer to the action.

• GFCI and outdoor devices: For outdoor receptacles and circuits, I put GFCI protection at the source and use in-use covers and weather-rated boxes. The cable is wet-location rated, but the devices and enclosures must match.

• Corrosive environments: In damp basements and agricultural settings, the robust jacket has held up well. It’s not a magic bullet against mechanical damage, so protect exposed sections where equipment or animals could impact it.

Where this cable fits best

• Feeds to sheds, well houses, and detached garages where trenching is straightforward and the load is a single 20A circuit.
• Landscape lighting transformers and pond pumps with modest current draw.
• Replacing older UF runs that have degraded insulation or questionable splices.
• Damp indoor spaces where NM-B isn’t appropriate.

If you’re building out a multi-circuit outbuilding, planning long conduit runs, or expecting continuous high current, a small subpanel with a larger feeder (and THWN in conduit) often makes more sense.

What I’d change

No surprises on the electrical side, but a couple of practical notes:
- Jacket toughness vs. workability is always a tradeoff. UF-B is necessarily stiff; expect a workout on cold mornings. If you can, schedule burial and terminations when temperatures are moderate.
- Stripping could be easier. A dedicated UF ripper tool is almost mandatory if you want to keep the inner insulation pristine and move quickly.

Neither of these are defects; they’re characteristics of UF-B as a class. Just plan for them.

Tips for sizing and planning

• Map the run and measure twice. Add slack for vertical rises, device tails, and neat routing.
• Think voltage drop early. For 120V loads, I aim for under 3% drop at typical operation, which may mean upsizing wire or reducing load distance.
• Use proper terminations. Boxes, clamps, and connectors must be listed for UF and outdoor use. Protect the cable where it exits grade.
• Backfill smart. A few inches of sand or sifted soil under and over the cable helps prevent punctures from rocks. Finish with native soil and compact in lifts.
• Label both ends. Future you will thank present you for clear panel schedules and a marked junction box.

Value

As a 250-foot coil of 12/2 UF-B, this hits a sweet spot for residential projects: long enough to handle most single-run tasks without splicing, but not so much that you’re sitting on a lifetime supply. Given the construction quality and reliable copper conductors, it represents solid value, especially compared to piecemeal conduit jobs for simple, single-circuit feeds.

The bottom line

This UF-B 12/2 cable is exactly what I expect from a dependable underground feeder: tough jacket, true-to-gauge copper, and the right ratings for wet and corrosive environments. It installs predictably, performs reliably, and holds up to burial as long as you respect good trenching and protection practices. It’s not the tool for every scenario—long, high-load runs or multi-circuit outbuildings deserve a different approach—but for straightforward 20A branch circuits to outbuildings and outdoor loads, it’s a workhorse.

Recommendation: I recommend this cable for homeowners and pros who need a durable, code-appropriate, single-circuit underground run. It’s a strong choice when direct burial makes sense, your load is appropriate for 12 AWG, and you value a robust, low-maintenance installation. If your plan involves long distances at higher loads or extensive conduit routing, consider stepping up in conductor size or switching to a conduit-and-THWN strategy instead.