Tnisesm 300PCS Insulated Wire Crimp Connectors Assortment Kit with Ring, Spade, Butt, Quick Disconnect, Crimp Automotive Cable Terminals TN-T01

Why I keep this kit in my wiring drawer

I keep a small roster of go‑to consumables for electrical work: heat‑shrink, a ratcheting crimper, and a mixed box of ring, spade, butt, and quick‑disconnect terminals. The TN‑T01 kit slotted into that routine easily. It’s a 300‑piece assortment covering the common color‑coded sizes—red (22–18 AWG), blue (16–14 AWG), and yellow (12–10 AWG)—with enough variety to handle most light‑to‑medium‑duty projects around a vehicle, garage, or bench.

Over several weeks I used this kit for three typical jobs: repairing a trailer light harness (butt splices on 16 AWG), adding quick‑disconnects to motorcycle turn signals, and terminating a 12 AWG feed to a small accessory fuse block in the shop. In each case the connectors crimped consistently and the tin‑plated copper barrels made reliable electrical contact without excessive force.

What you get

• Ring, spade, butt, male/female quick‑disconnects
• Color‑coded PVC insulation: red (22–18 AWG, 160 pcs), blue (16–14 AWG, 120 pcs), yellow (12–10 AWG, 20 pcs)
• Tin‑plated copper cores under the insulation
• Compact plastic organizer case and an identification chart
• Stated warranty coverage for two years with a lifetime refund policy

It’s a straightforward kit, but the breadth is the point: the common terminations are here, and the sizing covers the majority of automotive and general DC projects. The only immediate limitation is the relative scarcity of yellow connectors; if you do a lot of 12 AWG work, you’ll run out of those first.

Build and material quality

The barrels are copper with a thin tin plate, which is what I expect at this price point. They conduct well and crimp easily. The PVC collars are molded cleanly and color is consistent; the collars are slightly translucent, so with a flashlight I could confirm conductor insertion on most pieces. Tongues on the rings and spades were free of burrs and aligned properly.

The trade‑off is thickness. These aren’t heavy‑duty barrels. On yellow sizes in particular, the walls feel a bit light. That doesn’t make them unusable—far from it—but it does put a cap on where I’d trust them long term (more on that below).

Crimping experience

I tested with two tools:

• A ratcheting crimper with red/blue/yellow nests for insulated terminals
• A basic stamped‑steel crimper you’d find in many glove boxes

With the ratcheting crimper, results were solid. Red connectors on 18 AWG and blue on 16 AWG seated nicely with a single cycle; a firm hand‑tug and rotational twist didn’t budge them, and continuity stayed stable while flexing the wire. Yellow connectors on 12 AWG also held well, but I found best results orienting the seam opposite the die’s convex side and adding a second light squeeze on the insulation support for strain relief.

With the stamped crimper, my failure rate increased on blue and yellow sizes—occasional partial bites, or a barrel that would ovalize before fully compressing. That’s not unique to this kit; cheaper crimpers make most vinyl‑insulated terminals unreliable. The takeaway is simple: use a proper ratcheting crimper and match the die color to the connector.

The male/female quick‑disconnects mated with a positive click. A handful felt a touch loose out of the box, which I fixed with a tiny squeeze on the female collar to snug the fit—standard practice for vinyl disconnects.

In practice: strength, corrosion, and environment

• Pull strength: On properly matched wire with a ratcheting crimper, connections passed hand pull tests and light vibration from a bench sander without loosening. If you need certified pull values for a critical application, step up to thicker‑wall or double‑crimp terminals.

• Corrosion: Tin plating over copper is a good baseline for general use and resists oxidation better than bare brass. For wet or salty environments, I prefer adhesive‑lined heat‑shrink terminals. These have PVC insulation only, so moisture can wick into the strands over time if they’re exposed.

• Heat: PVC collars are fine near passenger‑compartment temps and under‑dash wiring. I avoid placing vinyl‑insulated terminals directly on engine blocks, near exhaust components, or other sustained high‑heat zones.

Sizing and compatibility

The color coding is accurate and the barrels are sized correctly for stranded copper conductors in their listed AWG ranges. A few practical notes:

• Strip length: 5–6 mm worked for most pieces in this kit. You want conductor just past the barrel midpoint so you can feel it under the die.
• Wire type: These are for stranded wire. Solid copper (house branch circuits) doesn’t crimp reliably in this style of connector.
• Code considerations: Don’t bury these inside walls for residential AC circuits; use code‑compliant methods. For appliance leads, low‑voltage, and automotive/12V systems, they’re appropriate.
• Ring and spade stud sizes: The set includes a mix suitable for small hardware; I keep a step bit or hand reamer nearby if I need a slightly larger hole.

Organization and case

The organizer is compact and the latch stays shut in a tool bag. The internal dividers are decent; a few pieces can migrate if the box takes a hard hit, but the included chart makes quick work of putting them back in their bins. I put a strip of foam under the lid to reduce mixing when I’m traveling with it.

Where this kit shines—and where it doesn’t

Excels at:
- Quick repairs and additions on vehicles, trailers, motorcycles, small equipment
- Low‑voltage projects like speakers, LED lighting, sensors, and accessories
- General shop wiring on 18–14 AWG where you want a simple, durable termination

Use with caution or upgrade for:
- High‑current or high‑vibration environments (battery lugs, engine bay near heat)
- Wet/salty conditions (boats, exterior junctions) unless you add heat‑shrink and sealant
- Repeated disconnect cycles on quick‑disconnects—metal is serviceable, not indestructible

Tips for best results

• Use a ratcheting crimper designed for insulated terminals and match the color die.
• Orient the barrel seam opposite the die’s convex tooth to avoid splitting.
• Lightly twist stranded conductors before insertion and confirm depth visually.
• Add adhesive‑lined heat‑shrink over butt splices for any outdoor or under‑vehicle run.
• Apply dielectric grease to quick‑disconnect pairs in humid environments.
• Keep an eye on yellow inventory; if you do frequent 12 AWG work, buy a supplemental pack.

Value and alternatives

For the price of a couple of coffee runs, you get a broad set of the connectors most DIYers and mechanics burn through weekly. You can certainly buy thicker‑wall or heat‑shrink‑insulated terminals for tougher environments—and I do for marine jobs and engine bays—but for everyday 12V work and around‑the‑shop wiring, the TN‑T01 kit hits a practical middle ground: decent materials, predictable crimps, and enough variety to keep projects moving.

The inclusion of a two‑year warranty and lifetime refund promise is unusual in this category and a confidence boost, especially when stocking a shop where consumables get used up and reordered.

The bottom line

The TN‑T01 kit is an easy recommendation for general electrical work on stranded wire in the 22–10 AWG range. The assortment is useful, the copper/tin barrels crimp consistently with the right tool, and the organizer keeps the chaos in check. It’s not a heavy‑duty or marine‑grade solution, and the barrels are on the thinner side—so I wouldn’t use these for high‑heat, high‑current, or harsh‑vibration installs without additional protection. But for everyday repairs, accessories, and low‑voltage projects, this 300‑piece kit has earned a permanent spot in my drawer.

Recommendation: I recommend this kit to DIYers and pros who need a reliable, budget‑friendly stock of vinyl‑insulated terminals for light‑to‑medium‑duty work. Pair it with a quality ratcheting crimper and add heat‑shrink where moisture is a concern, and you’ll get solid, repeatable results. If you routinely work in marine environments or on high‑current circuits, step up to thicker‑wall, adhesive‑lined connectors—but keep this box around for everything else.