Makita A-95526 Multi-Tool Sandpaper, 80 Grit, 10/pk

What it is and where it fits

Makita’s 80‑grit multi‑tool sheets are the narrow “finger” style abrasives for oscillating tools, designed to sneak into places a random orbit sander can’t reach. Think baluster corners, window sash profiles, cabinet face‑frame inside edges, and all those little glue lines and paint lips that are easy to see and hard to touch. The sheets use aluminum oxide in an open‑coat with a resin bond on a heavyweight paper backing. They hook to a finger sanding pad via hook‑and‑loop and are sized for Makita and Bosch pads.

In the shop and on site, I treat 80‑grit as a shaping and stripping grit: getting to flat, knocking down mill marks, or cutting through finish to a clean substrate. These Makita sheets are built for exactly that role.

Setup and fit

On a Makita oscillating multi‑tool with the finger pad, the sheets seat cleanly. The hook‑and‑loop feels secure, and alignment with the pad’s dust holes is straightforward. I also ran them on a Bosch pad without drama. The pre‑overlap dimensions are tight enough that once you wrap the sheet around the finger, you get a snug fit with enough overlap to keep the trailing edge from lifting.

If you’re new to finger pads, a tip: burnish the wrapped sheet down by pressing it against a clean scrap and giving it a light “pass” under power. That sets the loop engagement and helps keep the overlap from creeping.

Cutting performance

Cutting speed is the headline with 80‑grit, and these deliver. On eastern white pine face frames, they erase planer chatter and pencil lines quickly without gouging as long as you keep the tool moving. On red oak, the cut is steady and predictable; the resin bond keeps the grain from popping out, and the open‑coat structure reduces heat build‑up, which helps the abrasive stay sharp longer.

For paint and varnish removal on older trim, the open coat pays off. I was able to lift flaking latex and ambered varnish without loading the sheet solid in a minute. When the coating softened rather than powdered, a couple of taps and a brass brush brought the grit back. I also tried the sheets on two‑part filler feathering; they flatten filler flush to surrounding wood without dragging a ridge, which tells me the grain is sharp and consistently graded.

Plastic sanding is always tricky with oscillation. On acrylic and PVC, these can smear if you push too hard. Back off the speed a notch and let the abrasive scratch instead of melt; the sheets cut cleanly that way without skating.

Finish quality

You won’t finish at 80‑grit, but it’s nice when you don’t have to fight scratches on the next step. The scratch pattern these leave is even and aligned, which makes stepping to 120/150 straightforward. With pine, I had one pass of 120 erase the 80‑grit lines without residual tails. In hardwood, plan on 120 and 150 if you’re going for a clear finish. On painted work, a quick scuff with 120 before primer was enough.

Edge control is good for a finger pad. The heavyweight paper helps keep the abrasive from tearing out at the tip when you sneak into an inside corner. You can still round over a profile if you hang the edge, but that’s operator error more than a paper problem.

Dust management

These sheets do have dust extraction holes, and on both Makita and Bosch pads the alignment is right. Connected to a vac (or even the tool’s basic dust adapter), I got noticeably cleaner cuts on paint and less airborne pine dust while flattening a small rail. The open‑coat structure means there’s more gap between grains, so dust has a path off the surface rather than immediately clogging the abrasive. If you’re working without extraction, knock the sheet against your palm often; a quick “de‑cake” extends life.

Durability and wear

Lifespan is solid for an 80‑grit finger sheet. On bare wood, I could sand several face‑frame interiors and a couple of stair spindles before the cut dulled meaningfully. On finish removal, life depends on the coating—old alkyd paint and shellac tend to powder and are easy; modern acrylics can gum and shorten life if you press too hard.

Hook‑and‑loop adhesion has been reliable for me, but technique matters. If you rip sheets off while they’re hot from aggressive sanding, the adhesive in the loop can be more vulnerable. Let the pad cool for a minute or peel the sheet back slowly from the base toward the tip. I did one hot swap and felt the backing tug; since then I’ve cooled between swaps and haven’t had any delamination. Also, avoid catching screws or nails—heavyweight paper resists edge tear‑out, but metal will shred any paper in a heartbeat.

Where it shines

• Tight spaces: The narrow finger format reaches louvers, muntins, inside cabinet corners, and the bottoms of balusters.
• Stock removal on small faces: Truing proud joints, leveling putty, knocking back runs and sags in finish.
• Prep for repaint: Scuffing detailed trim and corners where a block can’t reach.
• Controlled material removal: The oscillating action with 80‑grit lets you shape without the aggression of a carbide rasp.

Where it struggles

• Large, flat expanses: You’ll want a larger pad or a random orbit for panels and tabletops; a finger pad is slow and can track.
• Heat‑sensitive plastics: Use low speed and light pressure; otherwise, expect smearing.
• Embedded grit and fasteners: As with any paper, a single kiss on a hidden staple can end a sheet.

Tips for best results

• Let the abrasive cut. Moderate pressure and a slow feed nearly always outpace heavy pressure that overheats and glazes the grit.
• Use the full face. Rotate or flip the sheet on the pad so you even out wear; the nose does a lot of work, but the sides cut well too.
• Clear clogs. Tap the sheet, brush it with a brass brush, or give it a burst of compressed air. Don’t keep grinding a loaded face.
• Step through grits. Follow 80 with 120 and 150 to remove the scratch pattern before finishing or priming.
• Peel cool. Remove sheets once the pad cools to preserve the hook‑and‑loop backing.

Compatibility and sizing notes

These fit Makita and Bosch finger pads as claimed. On other brands with similar finger pads, the hook pattern may differ—expect best results on the named pads. The pre‑overlap sizing makes sense in practice: once wrapped, there’s enough coverage to keep the edge planted without leaving a loose tail.

Value

For a 10‑pack of branded sheets, the price is reasonable, and the performance matches. Cheaper no‑name papers often cut fast for a minute and then glaze or shed grit; these hold a consistent cut longer, which means fewer swaps and more predictable results. If you’re doing a whole house of painted trim, you’ll still go through a stack, but you’ll also spend less time fiddling with lifting edges and clogged faces.

The bottom line

As 80‑grit finger sheets go, the Makita option strikes the right balance of cut speed, control, and lifespan. The aluminum oxide open‑coat with a resin bond handles wood and typical coatings without loading too quickly, and the heavyweight paper backing resists the usual nose‑shredding that finger pads suffer in tight corners. Dust hole alignment is right on with Makita and Bosch pads, and the hook‑and‑loop stays put if you don’t yank sheets off while they’re hot.

I recommend these for anyone who regularly uses an oscillating multi‑tool to prep trim, tune joinery in tight spots, or clean up inside corners. They’re not a miracle worker on large surfaces or heat‑sensitive plastics, but used as intended, they cut cleanly and last well enough to justify the spend. The practical advantages—secure fit, predictable wear, and less clogging—translate into smoother workflows in all the places your other sanders can’t reach.