POWERTEC Tool Stand, MDF Split Top Expands to 20"x25", 32" Work Height Power Tool Stand for Drill Press, Belt Sander, Bench Grinder, Band Saw, Scroll saw, and Planer

Why I picked up the Powertec stand

I picked up the Powertec tool stand to give a benchtop drill press and belt sander a dedicated home without committing to a full cabinet. I wanted something compact, rigid, and easy to re-task around the shop. After a few weeks of use, I’m convinced this stand hits most of the right notes for DIYers and small-shop woodworkers who need a steady platform for benchtop machines.

Build and stability

The frame is powder‑coated steel with a trapezoidal stance that feels planted once everything is cinched down. The stand is rated for 500 pounds. I wouldn’t treat that number as a dare—thin-gauge steel will flex long before you get near half a ton—but for typical benchtop tools (small drill presses, band saws, scroll saws, sanders, planers) it’s absolutely up to the task. With a drill press on top, vibration was minimal; the rubber feet help keep the stand from walking and they don’t scuff the floor.

One thoughtful touch: the stand includes a single adjustable leveling foot. At first glance that can look like a cost-saving omission, but functionally it’s correct. On imperfect floors, three points define a plane—by adjusting one foot you eliminate rocking without turning leveling into a four-corner chore. It works as intended. Once leveled, the stand stayed solid through bit changes and side loads from sanding.

The working height is 32 inches. That’s a bit lower than a typical bench, which is good for keeping the center of gravity down when you mount taller tools. If you’re trying to match a specific outfeed height, measure—32 inches might sit under a table saw outfeed, not flush with it.

Assembly experience

Assembly is straightforward but benefits from patience and a square. The trick is to leave all fasteners finger-tight while you bring the frame together, square it up, then tighten methodically. If you torque bolts as you go, you’ll fight alignment and introduce twist, which reads as wobble. Plan on 45–60 minutes with a ratchet and a screwdriver.

Fastener quality is typical for this price point—light-duty metric bolts that are fine for a static stand. Don’t over‑torque. I’d also recommend chasing any painted threads with the bolt first to avoid cross-threading. Once the frame was snug, the wobble disappeared and the stand felt much more substantial than it looks in pieces.

The split MDF worktop

The top is a split MDF surface that measures 14 x 25 inches and can expand to 20 x 25 inches by sliding the two halves apart. There’s a ruled surface printed on top, which is handy for rough centering of bases and jigs.

Functionally, the split top is useful. I could widen the platform for a sander with a larger base and narrow it for a drill press to tuck the column closer to the frame. The tradeoff is obvious: if you run it in the “expanded” position, there’s a gap down the middle. If your tool’s base spans the gap, no problem. If not, you’ll want to bridge it with a sub-top or keep the halves tight together.

This is MDF, not plywood, so treat it accordingly. It’s dimensionally stable and flat, but it won’t love moisture and it’s easy to strip if you over-tighten wood screws. After a dry fit, I sealed both top halves with two coats of water-based polyurethane to fend off glue and oil. I also pre-drilled for mounting hardware and tightened by hand rather than using a driver on full tilt. If you plan to mount a heavier tool centered in the panel (away from the frame’s perimeter support), consider replacing the top with 3/4-inch plywood or adding fender washers and through-bolts to spread the load.

Storage shelf: useful, with limits

Below the top sits an 18 x 27 inch shelf. It’s primarily for light accessories—fences, push blocks, bit cases, extra blades. The shelf panels are on the thin side; they’ll sag if you park a dozen clamps or a bucket of offcuts there. Treat it as accessory storage, not a ballast tray. If you need to use the shelf for heavier items, upgrading to a thicker plywood panel is an easy afternoon project and makes the whole stand feel even more planted.

Mobility options (and a caution)

The manufacturer is explicit: this stand isn’t designed to be used with casters on its legs. Doing so can destabilize the geometry and, importantly, void the warranty. The trapezoidal legs don’t love point loads at the corners, and movement multiplies stress on those joints over time.

I still wanted mobility, so I set the assembled stand on a separate mobile base. That kept the stand itself intact while giving me wheels and brakes when I needed to reconfigure the shop. A low-profile dolly or a universal mobile base is a better solution than drilling into the stand’s feet. If your workflow requires frequent rolling, you may be better off with a stand engineered for casters from the start.

Mounting tools and hole patterns

Universal stands and universal tool bases rarely share hole patterns. Expect to drill your own mounting holes in the top. The ruled surface helps you lay out a centered footprint quickly. For heavier tools, I prefer through‑bolts with washers and nylocks over wood screws. MDF holds wood screws, but repeated re-mounting will chew up the fibers. For tools that require exact alignment (router tables, planers), I recommend mocking up with a cardboard template first, then committing to holes.

The split top makes reconfiguration painless; slide the halves to fit your base, mark, drill, done. Just be mindful of where the frame sits below to capture bolts and avoid drilling into fresh air.

Real-world use

With a small drill press mounted, the stand feels solid under downward pressure and lateral forces. Bit changes are stable and stock doesn’t chatter against the column from vibration. With a compact belt sander on top, the rubber feet damp a surprising amount of buzz. I wouldn’t hesitate to mount a benchtop band saw or planer as long as you respect the MDF’s limitations and mount with bolts.

Where the stand shines is flexibility. The footprint is modest, the height is sensible, and the split top means the same frame can host very different tools. If you’re tight on space and need a couple of dedicated “parking spots” that can be repurposed, this is an easy way to add them without building cabinets.

What I’d improve

• Top material: MDF is cost-effective and flat, but upgraded plywood would broaden use cases and improve screw-holding. Sealing the MDF is a must.
• Shelf rigidity: A single thicker shelf panel would resist bowing. It’s a simple user upgrade but would be nice out of the box.
• Hardware: The included bolts work, yet a slightly higher grade and clearer torque guidance would help users avoid overtightening and frame twist.
• Instructions: A bold note to leave bolts loose until final square-up would save some head-scratching for first-time assemblers.

Who it’s for

• DIYers and small-shop users who need a dedicated, stable platform for benchtop machines.
• Anyone looking to keep tall tools lower for stability without devoting full bench space.
• Users comfortable with light customization—sealing the top, drilling mounting holes, possibly upgrading the shelf.

Who should look elsewhere: If you need a rolling stand with casters integrated into the legs, or you regularly mount very heavy machines and store significant weight on a lower shelf, consider a cabinet-based stand or a frame designed specifically for mobility and high loads.

Tips for best results

• Seal the MDF top and shelf with polyurethane or shellac before mounting tools.
• Pre-drill and hand-tighten wood screws, or better yet, use through-bolts and washers.
• Keep all hardware loose during assembly, square the frame, then tighten in stages.
• Use the single leveling foot to eliminate rocking; don’t chase four corners.
• If you need mobility, park the stand on a universal mobile base rather than installing casters on the legs.

Recommendation

I recommend the Powertec stand for anyone who wants a compact, stable, and adaptable platform for benchtop tools without spending cabinet money. It’s sturdy enough for typical shop tasks, the 32-inch height keeps tools planted, and the split top adds genuine flexibility. You’ll get the best experience if you treat the MDF top and shelf with a little care—seal them, avoid overtightening screws, and upgrade the shelf if you plan to store heavier items. If integrated casters are a must-have or you’re mounting unusually heavy equipment, there are better-suited options. For most DIY and small-shop setups, though, this stand is a practical, good-value solution that does exactly what a universal stand should: get out of the way and hold your tool steady.