DeWalt 36 in. Wrecking Bar

First impressions and what I used it for

The first time I put this 36-inch wrecking bar to work, I was prying up rotten decking and stubborn fasteners that were fused by rust. Since then, I’ve leaned on it for pulling nails out of trailer flooring, popping a corrosion-locked wheel off a hub, and even encouraging small slabs and pavers to crack where I needed them to break. It’s a straightforward tool, but the details matter: the bend of the claw, the geometry of the pry end, and how the shaft feels when you’re yarding on it at full body weight. On those fronts, this bar largely gets it right.

Design and build

• Length: 36 inches
• Weight: 6.4 lbs (2.9 kg)
• Material/finish: Steel shaft with a powder-coated finish
• Shape: Tri-lobe cross-section
• Ends: Curved claw primary tip with a nail slot; a second, pointed beveled tip; rounded 90° prying end and multiple nail pullers

The tri-lobe shaft is more than a design flourish. It makes the bar easier to index in your hand, especially with gloves, and resists rolling as you apply torque. The curved claw has a generous, useful bite with a 2-inch width; it gets under boards reliably without requiring you to beat it in with a sledge. The pointed beveled end is thin enough to start under tight material and to stab into seams, while the rounded 90° heel gives a consistent rolling fulcrum for controlled lift.

The powder coat resists rust well. Mine has plenty of cosmetic scarring after abrasive demolition, but the underlying steel hasn’t shown meaningful corrosion with normal care.

Leverage and prying performance

At 36 inches, the bar is long enough to give meaningful leverage without being unwieldy. For deck demo and framing teardown, I could work standing up more often than not, which saves your back and speeds the job. The rounded heel shines here: plant it, roll your wrist, and the bar lifts predictably instead of skittering or chewing into joists. When I needed to sneak under tight boards, the pointed beveled tip slipped in cleanly and the curvature of the claw let me incrementally raise boards without exploding them—useful if you’re trying to salvage lumber or keep splintering under control.

For automotive tasks, the length is a sweet spot. It’s compact enough for a trunk yet gives enough mechanical advantage to break corrosion bonds—like freeing a stuck wheel off a hub—without resorting to a cheater pipe.

If you’re expecting the brute leverage of a 48-inch demolition bar, this won’t replace it on very thick or heavily fastened assemblies. On the other hand, the 36-inch length is better inside tight framing and inside trailers, and it’s less fatiguing to carry for hours.

Nail pulling and fastener work

This bar has multiple nail pullers: a slot at the claw and another option toward the heel. The claw slot handled traditional ring-shank and common nails well. The heel puller is handy when you need a lower fulcrum or when space makes the claw awkward. For partially buried nails, the pointed tip is thin enough to drive around the shank, tease it free, and then finish with the slot.

A couple of notes from use:
- Headless or severely rusted nails still come out, but expect a few to snap; that’s the fastener failing, not the bar.
- Screws that have lost heads or are rust-frozen won’t pull neatly like nails; plan to shear or pry boards over the screw shanks. The bar’s curvature gives good control for that kind of lift without crushing the joist beneath.

Ergonomics and control

The tri-lobe cross-section is the unsung hero of this design. With sweaty gloves, I could still feel the flats and keep the bar oriented. It reduces hot spots on the hands compared to perfectly round or sharp-edged hex shafts. At 6.4 pounds, there’s enough mass to drive the tip under boards with body weight, but not so much that your forearms are shot by lunchtime. Balance is neutral; it doesn’t feel nose-heavy, and the pivot at the heel is easy to finesse.

Durability

The steel shaft has held up well, and the tips didn’t mushroom with normal prying and occasional mallet taps. The powder coat scrapes off where it inevitably contacts abrasive surfaces, but that’s cosmetic and expected. I did notice that if you reef on the bar to pry up long runs of decking that are locked down with rusted hardware—and especially if you twist hard while levered—you can produce a slight, permanent set in the shaft. It wasn’t dramatic, and the bar kept working fine, but it’s a reminder: this is a wrecking bar, not a spud bar or a breaker bar. Use straight-line leverage, avoid cheater pipes, and don’t expect it to behave like a 12-pound digging bar.

Versatility beyond framing and decking

• Trailer and flooring work: The nail pullers and curved claw make short work of planks in trailers and box trucks. Working between crossmembers is easier with the 36-inch length than with longer demolition bars.
• Masonry and landscape: The pointed end is handy for starting cracks in small slabs, edging pavers, or cleaning out mortar joints before prying. It’s not a chisel, but it’s sturdy enough for controlled persuasion.
• Automotive: Corrosion-bound parts that need a nudge—stuck wheels, exhaust hangers, stubborn clips—benefit from the length and the rolling heel. The slim tip fits where a bulkier bar won’t.

Size, storage, and portability

This is a packable bar. It fits across most car trunks or along a truck’s side box without taking over your storage. On ladders and scaffolds, the 36-inch length is less awkward than longer demo bars and still useful for prying sheathing, popping out blocking, and lifting headers into position.

Tips for best results

• Use the rounded heel as a rolling fulcrum to meter lift and save joists.
• Start with the pointed beveled tip to open a seam before swapping to the claw.
• Pull nails with the claw slot when you can; switch to the heel puller for low-clearance situations.
• Keep prying forces in-plane with the shaft. Avoid twisting under heavy load to prevent a permanent bend.
• Expect the powder coat to scuff. A quick wipe with oil after wet work keeps rust at bay where the coating has worn.

What it isn’t

• A sledge-substitute. Tapping the tip with a mallet is fine; striking the shaft hard with a hammer will scar the finish and isn’t necessary if you approach seams smartly.
• A 48-inch demolition bar. For large beams, tight-locked timbers, or heavy concrete breakup, you’ll want the extra leverage of a longer, heavier tool.

Warranty and value

The bar carries a 1-year limited warranty. There’s not much to fail on a solid steel bar, but it’s good to have coverage if you encounter a manufacturing defect. From a value standpoint, the combination of useful geometry, comfortable grip, and robust feel makes sense for both pros and serious DIYers.

Downsides

• Possible slight bending if you twist hard under heavy load or use a cheater pipe.
• Powder coat wears quickly in abrasive work (cosmetic).
• Not as much leverage as a full-length 4-foot bar for very heavy demolition.

Who it’s for

• Remodelers and deck builders who need reliable leverage and nail-pulling without the bulk of a 48-inch bar.
• Trailer and flooring pros who work in tighter spaces.
• Homeowners who want a single, capable wrecking bar that also fits in a trunk or small tool closet.

Recommendation

I recommend this 36-inch wrecking bar for general demolition, framing teardown, decking, and trailer flooring work. The tri-lobe shaft provides secure control, the curved claw and pointed beveled tip make starting and finishing pries efficient, and the rounded heel offers predictable, repeatable leverage. It’s compact enough to live in the truck yet powerful enough to tackle stubborn, rusted assemblies. Just respect its limits—use straight prying forces rather than twisting under heavy load—and it will be a reliable, versatile staple in your kit.