DeWalt 2-1/4 in. Bi-Metal Hole Saw

I didn’t buy a 2-1/4-inch hole saw to make pretty holes—I needed fast, clean cuts in framing and sheet goods without abusing a drill or myself. After several projects with the DeWalt 2-1/4-in. hole saw, I’m confident it lands in the sweet spot of rugged, predictable performance and practical design.

Build and design

This is a bi-metal cup with a high-speed steel cutting edge and a deeper-than-average profile. The 1.75-inch cutting depth is enough to get through 2-by dimensional lumber in a single pass, which means I’m not stopping mid-cut to pry out chips or flip the work. The tooth geometry—DeWalt’s patented pattern—aims to both clear chips and reduce heat. In hand, the tooth set looks consistent, and the cup runs true on a decent arbor.

One simple touch I appreciate: the large continuous side slot. Some cups use multiple small ports, but this long, open slot makes it easier to lever out a plug with a flat screwdriver or push it free with a punch. It doesn’t sound like much until you’re knocking out a dozen holes in studs and want your rhythm uninterrupted.

The finish and welds are tidy, and the cup’s stiffness inspires confidence when you’re leaning into a cut. It’s made in the USA with global materials.

Setup and compatibility

There’s no arbor in the package, and that’s standard for pro-grade cups. You’ll need a “large” hole saw arbor compatible with 2-inch and up cups and a 1/4-inch pilot bit. A quick-change arbor is worth it if you swap sizes often. I ran it on both a corded 1/2-inch drill with a side handle and a high-torque 18V drill/driver. The latter is fine for wood and plastic; for metal, a corded drill’s steady RPM and torque are nicer, but a robust cordless works if you keep speeds conservative.

If you’re new to hole saws:
- Tighten the arbor pins fully into the cup holes so the cup can’t slip.
- Use a sharp pilot bit and confirm it protrudes far enough to anchor the cut before the teeth engage.
- If your drill offers a low gear, use it; hole saws prefer torque over speed.

Performance in wood

In SPF studs and LVL, the saw tracks well with minimal chatter once the pilot establishes. The tooth form does seem to shed chips efficiently. I’ve cut through 2x4 and 2x6 in one pass without the telltale smoke you get from shallow cups. Tear-out on the exit side depends more on technique than the cup: a quick score pass in reverse to scribe the fibers, or backing the cut with scrap, yields clean edges on plywood and laminated panels.

For repetitive rough-in work, it’s a steady, predictable cutter. I’ve used it for dust port holes, cabinet grommet access, and a few exterior penetrations through sheathing over framing. The deeper cup is handy when your hole ends up partially over a stud—there’s room for the plug to ride without binding the throat.

Performance in metal

For mild steel electrical boxes and 18–20 gauge sheet, the bi-metal edge holds up if you respect speed and lubricant. I run slow (roughly 200–300 RPM) with light oil; the cut is smooth and the kerf edge is surprisingly tidy for a hole saw. Once you move into thicker stock, the usual rules apply: go slower, use more pressure control, and clear chips frequently. The cup’s rigidity helps prevent the snagging you can get with flimsier saws, but any 2-1/4-in. hole saw can grab if you tilt the drill or push too hard. Let the teeth do the work.

Stainless is doable for a few holes if you’re patient and your drill can hold a low RPM; it’s not the best choice for a long day in stainless, but that’s true of most general-purpose bi-metal saws.

Performance in plastic and composites

In PVC and ABS, it’s painless. Keep the speed moderate to avoid melting. The tooth form throws chips rather than dusting the plastic, which helps avoid a gummy kerf. For fiberglass, I mask and drill from both sides when possible; the saw’s steady cut minimizes frayed edges, though a quick pass with sandpaper cleans the perimeter.

Plug ejection and heat management

The large side slot is genuinely useful. On deep cuts in wet lumber—where plugs love to stick—I can usually lever them out without removing the arbor. If I do have to pop the cup off, the slot gives enough access to push the plug with a punch or pliers. Heat buildup is controlled as long as your speed is right. In wood, if you see browning, slow down or back the saw out to clear chips. In metal, small pecking motions keep the teeth cool and sharp.

Durability

After a steady run across wood, some thin steel, and a few plastics, the tooth edge still feels crisp with no chipped teeth. That’s the value of a decent bi-metal build: it’s forgiving across mixed materials. I expect to replace this saw eventually as with any consumable, but the wear rate has been slow and even. No runout developed at the cup-to-arbor interface—a sign the pin holes and threads are holding up.

Accuracy and surface finish

The kerf is consistent, and the diameter is true to size for my calipers. The pilot bit controls wander well, but as always, a dimple with a center punch makes a noticeable difference on sheet metal. On plywood and veneered panels, that quick reverse score trick pays dividends; the teeth are aggressive enough that, without a score, you’ll see minor exit tear-out in brittle veneers.

Comparisons and value

Against other mainstream bi-metal cups from Lenox and Milwaukee, this DeWalt sits squarely in the same performance tier. What separates it slightly is the deeper cup combined with the long side slot—two quality-of-life details that reduce fuss mid-job. Carbide-tipped hole saws will outlast it in abrasive materials and nail-embedded wood, but they also cost substantially more and don’t necessarily cut as cleanly in sheet metal at this diameter.

Arbor-not-included is normal, but it’s a cost to account for if you’re new to hole saws. The cup alone is reasonably priced for a pro-grade accessory.

Limitations and tips

• It’s still a hole saw; expect some kickback potential. Use a side handle and brace the work.
• For door locksets, note that most modern locks use a 2-1/8-in. bore. This 2-1/4-in. size is better for certain grommets, ducting penetrations, and specialty hardware. Measure the hardware first.
• In metal, err on the slow side with lubricant. If you see straw-blue chips, you’re running too hot.
• In thick stock, periodically back out to clear chips. It keeps the cut straight and preserves the teeth.
• If you need very clean edges in brittle laminates, score, back the cut, or consider a dedicated laminate bit and finish pass.

Who it’s for

• Remodelers and electricians who need a reliable 2-1/4-in. cutter for framing, sheathing, and boxes.
• Cabinet and shop builders adding dust ports or pass-throughs in plywood and composites.
• DIYers who need a single, versatile hole saw that won’t feel disposable after a weekend project.

Recommendation

I recommend the DeWalt 2-1/4-in. hole saw for anyone who wants a dependable, general-purpose cup that cuts cleanly across wood, thin metals, and plastics with minimal fuss. The deeper cut capacity makes one-pass holes in 2-by material routine, and the large ejection slot saves time when you’re knocking out plugs. While it won’t replace carbide for brutal, abrasive jobs, its bi-metal edge balances durability with a smooth cut at a fair price. Pair it with a quality large arbor, respect your speeds, and it’ll become the size you stop thinking about—which is exactly what I want from a hole saw.