CHENYAOAI 2 Pieces 8 x 12” Clear Acrylic Sheet Plexiglass - 1/8”(3mm) Thick, Use for Craft Projects, Signs, DIY Projects and More; Cut with Saw or Hand Tools, No Laser Cut

Acrylic is one of my workshop staples, and this two-pack of 8 x 12-inch, 1/8-inch thick sheets quickly found its way into several projects. I used the CHENYAOAI acrylic sheets as replacement glazing in a picture frame, as a small clear door panel on a bathroom cabinet, and as a simple sign board for an event. Across those tasks, they delivered reliable clarity, clean machining, and predictable handling, with a few quirks worth knowing before you start.

What you get and first impressions

This set includes two clear sheets, each true to the listed 8 x 12 inches and right on the 3 mm (1/8 inch) thickness mark on my calipers. Both sides ship with an adhesive protective film. The packaging protected the corners well, and the film kept the faces scratch-free during transit and shop handling.

One important note: remove the film before judging clarity. With the film on, it reads as slightly hazy; once peeled, the plastic is optically clean with no tint. If the film is stubborn at the corner, lift it with a fingernail or a bit of painter’s tape folded over on itself. I typically leave the film on for cutting and drilling, then peel at final assembly.

Optical quality and finish

For picture framing, optical clarity matters more than marketing claims. Head-to-head next to glass, these sheets are impressively transparent, with minimal color cast and no visible internal haze. Edges come saw-cut and serviceable; a quick pass with 220-400 grit sandpaper removes the faint machining marks and makes the edges presentable. If you want a polished edge, wet-sand to 1000-2000 grit and buff with plastic polish. I wouldn’t bother with flame polishing unless you’re comfortable with acrylic and have good ventilation; wet-sanding plus buffing is safer and consistent.

Reflection is typical of standard acrylic—there’s no anti-reflective treatment—so glare is similar to standard frame glass and higher than matte glass. For wall art, that may influence placement under strong lighting.

Cutting and sizing

At 3 mm thick, these sheets are easy to work with using common shop tools:

• Scoring and snapping: For straight cuts, a sharp utility knife and a metal straightedge work well. Score 10–15 passes, align the score over an edge, and snap downward with even pressure. Tape both sides of the cut line to reduce chipping.
• Saws: A fine-tooth jigsaw blade or a circular saw with an acrylic or non-ferrous metal blade makes clean cuts. Support the work to prevent vibration, keep feed rates steady, and avoid forcing the cut. I covered both sides with painter’s tape and left the film on—edges came out clean with minimal burrs.
• Sanding: Deburr edges lightly after machining. Avoid power sanding at high speed on the edge; acrylic can melt and smear with excessive heat.

I don’t recommend laser cutting these sheets. The labeling indicates they’re intended for saws and hand tools, and in practice that’s the safer route. Acrylic can release irritating fumes when lasered, and without knowing the exact formulation and protective film type, you risk edge charring and film melting.

Bending and heat forming

Acrylic heat-forms predictably if you respect its temperature range. These sheets are listed as tolerant from -40 to 190°F, but forming requires much higher localized heat. I used a strip heater to create a single 90-degree bend for a small stand. Warm slowly and evenly until the bend line softens; bend over a jig and hold until set. Remove the film near the bend line beforehand to avoid imprinting or melting the adhesive into the plastic. For gentle curves, a heat gun works in a pinch—keep the gun moving and test on scrap first.

Drilling and fastening

Drilling acrylic is where many projects go sideways, but with the right approach it’s drama-free:

• Use a step bit or a sharp twist bit with a modified cutting angle. A step bit is forgiving and resists “grabbing.”
• Back the sheet with scrap wood, clamp securely, and run the drill at low speed. Let the bit do the work.
• For holes near edges, leave at least a sheet thickness (3 mm) of material from the hole to the edge; more is better.
• Lightly chamfer the hole edges after drilling to reduce stress cracks when tightening screws.

In my tests, holes were clean with no star cracks. For mounting with screws, use nylon washers and don’t overtighten; acrylic doesn’t like point loads. For bonding, solvent cements made for acrylic (Weld-On 3/4 for capillary bonds, 16 for gap fill) produce strong, clear joints.

Durability, weather, and UV

The brand claims long outdoor durability and UV resistance. I can’t validate multi-decade performance, but a week outdoors in fall sun showed zero yellowing or surface haze—what I’d expect from decent PMMA. Acrylic is inherently UV-stable compared to polycarbonate; it won’t yellow quickly and keeps its clarity. It’s also waterproof and dimensionally stable in normal temperature swings. If you’re using it outside, support it well; a 12-inch span at 3 mm can bow slightly under weight or heat. For tabletops or larger panels, step up thickness.

One trade-off: surface hardness. Acrylic scratches more easily than glass. For high-touch surfaces, be prepared to baby it or plan for periodic polishing with plastic polish. Clean with mild soap and water or a dedicated plastic cleaner; avoid ammonia or alcohol-heavy cleaners that can cause crazing over time.

Project results

• Picture frame glazing: Swapping in one sheet as a glass replacement took minutes and immediately solved weight and breakage concerns. The 1/8-inch thickness added a snug fit, which eliminated any rattling in the frame. If your frame relies on thin glass and tight backer tolerances, check that 3 mm won’t make the stack too thick.
• Bathroom cabinet door insert: I routed a shallow rabbet and used the acrylic as a clear panel. The sheet cut cleanly and drilled without chips for the small mounting screws. In a damp environment, it hasn’t fogged or warped.
• Event sign: Vinyl lettering adhered well after a wipe with isopropyl alcohol and full evaporation. Static can attract dust during application; a quick pass with a tack cloth and a humid room helps. The sheet’s clarity made the lettering pop, and it wiped clean after the event.

Across these uses, the consistent theme was predictability: sizing was accurate, surfaces were clean under the film, and machining behaved as expected for cast/extruded acrylic of this thickness.

Practical limitations

• Not scratch-proof: Expect hairline marks if you slide it across rough surfaces. Use microfiber cloths and avoid dry-wiping dusty panels.
• No anti-glare: If glare control is critical, look for matte or coated acrylic. These are standard clear sheets.
• Laser cutting caution: I’d stick to hand and power tools. If you must laser, test scraps and manage fumes, but the safe guidance is to avoid it.
• Thickness constraints: The 3 mm thickness is sturdy for small spans and frame glazing, but too flexible for unsupported shelves. Conversely, it may be too thick for ultra-thin frame channels designed for 2 mm glass.

Tips for best results

• Keep the protective film on during cutting and drilling; peel at final assembly.
• Use painter’s tape along cut lines to minimize chipping.
• Score-and-snap for straight, small cuts; switch to a fine-tooth saw for complex shapes.
• Drill at low speed with backing, and chamfer hole edges.
• Clean with mild soap and water; dry with a microfiber cloth.
• For bonding, use acrylic solvent cement rather than CA or epoxy for the clearest joints.

Verdict

The CHENYAOAI acrylic sheets strike a useful balance of clarity, stiffness, and ease of machining for small-format projects. They arrived well-protected, measured true, and handled cutting, drilling, and limited heat forming without surprises. They’re not a substitute for tempered glass in abrasion resistance, and they’re not the right pick if you rely on laser cutting workflows. But for hand-tool and saw-based shop work—framing, signage, protective panels, and small enclosures—they do the job cleanly and consistently.

Recommendation: I recommend these sheets for makers and DIYers who need clear, durable acrylic in a manageable size and thickness. They’re particularly good as glass replacements in frames, cabinet inserts, and small sign panels where clarity and break resistance matter, and where you’re working with common shop tools rather than a laser.