United Pacific 10878 Chrome Spike License Plate Fastener Screw Caps for Standard License Plate, Threaded Mounting Stud w/Nut & Lock Washer - Pack of 4

Why I tried these

I like small, purposeful accents on vehicles—the kind you notice up close, not across a parking lot. The United Pacific chrome spike fasteners caught my eye as a simple way to clean up a license plate without resorting to full frames or flashy accessories. I installed a set on a motorcycle plate bracket and later moved the same set to a metal front plate frame on a car to see how they’d behave in two very different contexts.

Design and build quality

Each fastener is a threaded stud bonded to a spike-shaped cap, with a matching nut and lock washer. The spike itself measures about 3/4 inch in diameter, with an overall assembly length a hair under 2 inches. The thread length is right around 1 inch. That geometry matters because it dictates how far the hardware will protrude behind your plate and how prominent the spikes will look at the front.

The finish is triple-plated chrome, and it shows. Out of the box, all four pieces matched perfectly in color and sheen. The plating is smooth across the taper with no ripples or thin spots around edges. The machining is clean where the spike transitions to the base, and the threads arrived straight and burr-free. They feel dense for their size, which lends a reassuring sense of “not pot metal.” If you’re after a “true chrome” shine rather than a satin or brushed look, these deliver.

Compatibility: what they fit and what they don’t

These are through-bolt fasteners. That’s great news for frames and brackets with plain holes (motorcycle plates, most aftermarket plate frames, many truck plate mounts). It’s less ideal for some modern cars that expect a screw to bite directly into a plastic or metal insert on the bumper or trunk. With these spikes, you’ll need access to the backside of the mounting surface to add the nut and lock washer.

Before you buy, check:

• Can you reach behind the plate mount to hold a nut and washer? If not, these won’t work without modifying the mount.
• Does your bracket allow roughly 1 inch of thread to pass through without hitting wiring or trim? You can trim the studs, but you should know what’s behind there before you cut or install.
• Will the 3/4-inch-diameter caps clear any recessed plate frames or covers? They’re compact but more prominent than standard button-head screws.

On both my motorcycle bracket (flat steel with simple holes) and a metal front plate frame, fit was straightforward.

Installation experience

Setup is simple: plate, bracket/frame, spike stud through the hole, then lock washer and nut on the back. I recommend a few steps that made the install secure and tidy:

1. Test-fit each spike in the plate holes to check alignment. Slightly loosen any frame so you don’t cross-thread or force a crooked fit as you square everything up.
2. Use the included lock washers. I also added a dab of medium-strength threadlocker to each stud. That combination has kept them snug through wash cycles and a couple of highway trips.
3. Don’t over-torque. Snug until the lock washer is fully compressed, then a touch more. Cranking down can distort a plate or crack thin plastic frames.

The only tweak I made was trimming the studs. On the motorcycle, the full 1-inch thread stuck out farther than I liked behind the bracket. I marked the excess, removed the hardware, cut about 3/8 inch with a hacksaw, and dressed the cut end with a file so the nut would start cleanly. That also reduces the chance someone can quickly back the nut off with a small wrench.

Appearance and presence

Installed, the spikes look crisp without feeling cartoonish. On a motorcycle plate, the proportions are spot-on—the 3/4-inch diameter fills the plate holes visually without overwhelming the edges. On a car with a slim chrome frame, they read as a subtle nod to classic hot-rod styling. If you’re running a thick, modern plastic frame, the spikes will be more of a focal point because of the contrast in texture and reflectivity.

One practical note: the points are aesthetic, not knife-sharp, but they are still points. When hand-washing or drying the area, I now instinctively wipe around them rather than toward them. It’s not a safety hazard in normal use, just something to be mindful of to avoid a poke or a snag on a microfiber towel.

Durability and maintenance

After a few wet weather rides and multiple washes, the chrome has held its shine with no flaking or pitting. Triple plating tends to resist surface oxidation better than single-layer chrome, but no chrome is set-and-forget if you drive in road salt or coastal environments.

To keep them looking their best:

• Apply a sealant or wax to the spikes when you wax the car or bike. It takes seconds and puts a barrier between the chrome and contaminants.
• If you ride through winter, rinse off salt promptly and consider a thin coat of corrosion inhibitor on the backside threads and hardware.
• If you’re deleting chrome elsewhere, these take paint well. I sanded a spare set with 800 grit, applied an adhesion promoter, and matched body color. The shape is simple enough that even rattle-can results look good.

The supplied hardware (nuts and lock washers) has held up fine. If you’re in a corrosive climate, swapping to stainless nyloc nuts is a simple, inexpensive upgrade for long-term security and corrosion resistance.

Security and retention

Decorative fasteners are easy targets if they can be undone from the front. These spikes use a rear nut, so the only removal path is from behind, which already deters casual theft. A few extra moves help:

• Use the lock washers and add medium threadlocker.
• Trim excess thread length so there’s less to grab with pliers.
• Consider nyloc or tamper-resistant nuts on the back if the backside is accessible without removing trim.

With the above, mine have stayed tight and unbothered.

What could be better

• Stud length: The 1-inch thread is generous, which is good for thicker brackets, but it will be overkill on many mounts. Trimming is easy, yet it’s an extra step most people won’t expect. An alternative option with a shorter stud would be welcome.
• Optional finishes: The chrome is nicely executed, but a satin black or brushed stainless option would better suit modern “chrome delete” builds without prep and paint.
• Protective tips: The points are part of the appeal, but a set of small silicone caps in the package for install or wash time would be a thoughtful touch.

None of these are dealbreakers; they’re small refinements that would broaden the appeal.

Who they’re for

• Riders and drivers who want a clean, polished accent without committing to a full frame.
• Classic car and truck owners looking for a period-adjacent detail that reads intentional rather than flashy.
• Anyone with a plate mount that allows rear access for nuts and washers.

Who should look elsewhere:

• Owners of vehicles with captive, front-loading license plate inserts and no rear access. In those cases, a threaded “screw-in” style cap may be a better fit.
• Folks who prefer a low-profile, non-reflective look—unless you’re willing to paint them.

The bottom line

These United Pacific spikes are well made, easy to install if your mount allows rear access, and finished to a level that belies their simplicity. The triple-chrome plating looks properly bright, the size feels intentional rather than oversized, and the included hardware is all you need to get them on securely. Expect to trim the studs for the cleanest install on thin brackets, and take normal chrome-care precautions if you drive in harsh conditions.

Recommendation: I recommend these chrome spike fasteners. They’re a simple, durable way to add a touch of character to a plate without fuss or flimsy hardware. If your mount requires screw-in bolts from the front, choose a different style. For everyone else, these hit a sweet spot of build quality, ease, and subtle style.