Blulu 60 Pcs 3 Inch Vinyl Shutter Fastener Window Panel Peg Lok Pin Pegs Screws Shutter Spikes Anchor

I took on a full shutter refresh this season—strip, repaint, reinstall across a mix of vinyl siding and brick—and used the Blulu shutter fasteners to put everything back up. They’re simple 3-inch push-in pegs with a large head and reverse barbs, and they come in a 60-pack, which is the right scale for whole-house projects. After running through a few dozen installs, here’s how they performed and what to know before you commit.

Build and design

These fasteners are stiffer than many look-alikes. That stiffness matters: softer pegs tend to buckle or mushroom when you’re driving them, especially if your hole alignment isn’t perfect. The Blulu pegs held their shape, seated cleanly, and didn’t deform under a rubber mallet.

They’re made of UV-protected black vinyl. In practice, that means no rust stains (a common problem with painted metal screws) and no obvious color fade after extended sun exposure. The integrated color runs through the material, so minor scuffs won’t reveal a different color underneath.

The reverse-barb shank is aggressive enough to prevent backsliding once driven. The large, slightly domed head fills standard shutter counterbores well and sits flush without a gap.

Installation experience

These are “push-in” fasteners, but the best results still come from deliberate prep. Here’s the workflow that worked consistently for me:

• Plan your count. Use four per shutter for panels under 55 inches and six per shutter for taller panels. A 60-pack covers seven standard pairs (8 per pair = 56) or five tall pairs (12 per pair = 60).
• Remove old pegs cleanly. I cut the old heads off with an oscillating tool, pulled the shutter panel away, then pushed the remnants through into the cavity with a punch or screwdriver. Trying to extract old anchors from siding often does more harm than good; pushing them in is safer and faster.
• Keep your shutters organized. Mark the backs as you remove them so each pair returns to the original window and hole pattern. That alone saves a lot of time on reinstallation.
• Align first, then drill. Hold the shutter up and run a screwdriver or awl through the shutter hole into the substrate to “find” the existing hole and confirm the angle. This reduces the chance you’ll cock the peg and have to cut it out.
• Size your holes correctly. In wood or sheathing behind vinyl, I used a pilot hole slightly smaller than the shank. In masonry, a tight masonry-bit hole in mortar joints works well. Aim for an interference fit the barbs can bite into—snug, not sloppy.
• Seat with a rubber mallet. A few firm taps are better than one aggressive hit. If you feel unexpected resistance, stop and check alignment rather than forcing it.

On brick, I prefer drilling into the mortar joints instead of the brick faces to avoid spalling. In stucco, I drill carefully with a masonry bit to prevent cracking the finish and aim to bite into the sheathing behind the stucco for a solid hold.

One important caveat: once these pegs are seated, they’re basically permanent. If you need to remove a shutter later, plan to cut the head and push the remainder in again. That’s the nature of this style of fastener—not a flaw of this specific brand, but a design trade-off to keep in mind.

Holding power and everyday use

Once installed, the shutters sit tight and don’t rattle in wind. The barbs do what they’re supposed to do: resist withdrawal. I checked several panels a few weeks after installation and again after a heavy storm, and none had loosened. There’s no creep or back-out that you sometimes see with softer pegs.

Because the head is vinyl, you won’t get rust streaks or electrochemical staining around the fastener—an advantage over painted metal screws in coastal or wet climates.

Fit and finish

The black heads look clean on dark shutters and disappear visually at a few steps back. On lighter shutters, the contrast is noticeable, so color match is something to consider. You can paint vinyl heads, but adhesion is hit-or-miss without proper prep. If you must paint, scuff lightly, use an adhesion promoter, and finish with a UV-stable exterior paint. Still, the simplest path is to use them on black or dark shutters where they blend naturally.

The head size is appropriate—large enough to cover factory counterbores but not oversized or obtrusive. The shank length at 3 inches is standard for most vinyl-shutter installs over siding. If your assembly stack is unusually thick (deep foam board plus furring plus siding), verify that 3 inches will reach solid backing; otherwise, consider a longer anchor.

Durability

Vinyl won’t corrode, and the UV protection appears effective. After a season of sun and heat, mine haven’t chalked, faded, or gone brittle. The stiffer formulation also inspires confidence; they don’t feel like they’ll snap if you bump a ladder or press on a shutter corner.

As with all press-in anchors, shear loads aren’t their purpose. They’re meant to hold a non-structural shutter panel flat against the wall, not to carry weight. Used as intended, they’re more than up to the task.

Serviceability trade-offs

Compared with stainless screws and color-matched caps, these pegs install faster and have a cleaner, capless look. The trade-off is removability. If you anticipate frequent shutter removal—for example, for repainting every couple of years—screws may be the better route. If you want a tidy, permanent, low-maintenance install, these fasteners excel.

Tips that made the job smoother

• Cross-corner sequence: Start with the top-left and bottom-right positions, then the remaining corners, to keep the panel square and avoid skew.
• Undersize test: Drill a test hole in scrap or an inconspicuous spot and test-drive a peg to dial in your bit size before committing to a full run.
• Flush finish: If a peg bottoms early because there’s an obstruction, don’t pound harder. Back out, clear the hole, or trim the peg tip slightly and retry.
• Weather window: Install on a dry day so the holes are free of moisture; it helps with seating and reduces mess if you add a dab of exterior sealant in each hole on stucco or masonry.

Value

For large projects, the 60-count pack is the right quantity. Per-piece cost is low, and the stiffer formulation saves time and wasted pegs during install. If you’re tackling a whole façade—say, six to eight pairs of shutters—one box is usually enough, depending on shutter height and your fastening pattern.

Who they’re for

• Homeowners refreshing or replacing multiple vinyl shutters who want a clean, rust-free look and a fast, one-and-done install.
• Pros who need a reliable bulk option that won’t buckle during drive and that holds in a range of substrates: wood, vinyl siding, stucco, brick, and masonry.
• Anyone installing dark shutters, where the black heads blend seamlessly.

What could be better

• Color options: Black is versatile, but a range of colors would help with lighter shutters.
• Removability: It’s inherent to this fastener style, but a design that allowed non-destructive removal would be welcome for maintenance-heavy installations.

The bottom line

The Blulu shutter fasteners do the simple things right: they’re stiff enough not to buckle, the barbs hold, the heads sit cleanly, and the vinyl resists weather without rust or fading. Installation is straightforward if you prep properly and respect alignment, and the 60-pack makes sense for real-world project scales.

Recommendation: I recommend these for permanent shutter installs on vinyl siding, stucco, brick, or wood where you want a quick, tidy, low-maintenance fastening method. They’re especially good if your shutters are dark and you value a capless look. If you need frequent removability or a color other than black, consider stainless screws with color-matched caps; otherwise, these pegs are a dependable, cost-effective choice that simply work.