DeWalt #1 Phillips 1 in Insert Bit Tips

Why I kept a #1 Phillips insert bit in my pocket for a month

Small fasteners are unforgiving. One sloppy drive and a brass hinge screw or faceplate screw is chewed beyond saving. To see if a dedicated #1 tip could help, I put the DeWalt #1 Phillips insert bit in my daily rotation for a few weeks—cabinet hardware, electrical trim outs, HVAC registers, hobby work, and general shop tasks. It’s a compact, 1-inch insert bit meant for a bit holder, not a long power bit, and that alone changes how it behaves in the driver. Shorter means less wobble and more control, especially on fragile or shallow screw heads.

What it is and how it’s meant to be used

This is a single #1 Phillips insert bit, 1 inch long, designed for a magnetic bit holder. It’s made from shock‑resistant tool steel with a hardened, heat‑treated core to guard against twisting and tip breakage. The tip uses a snub-nose profile that seats fully in the screw head rather than tapering early. Out of the package, it lives in a compact little container that actually fits in a pouch or drawer without spilling.

Two quick notes if you’re new to insert bits:
- You’ll need a bit holder; the bit alone won’t lock into most drivers.
- The short length trades reach for control. It’s ideal when you can get the driver nose close to the work.

Build, machining, and tip geometry

At this size, the difference between a good bit and a junky one is in the grind and heat treatment. The DeWalt bit’s machining is crisp—no ragged flutes or casting seams—and the tip’s lands are sharp enough to bite without shaving screw heads. The snub-nose shape matters on #1 Phillips screws because they tend to have shallow recesses. A longer, more tapered tip can bottom out prematurely and rock, encouraging cam-out. This one seats decisively, and the shoulders meet the head geometry in a way that feels locked-in.

I ran it primarily in a magnetic bit holder on both a 12V drill/driver and a compact impact driver. The fit in the holder is snug, with no meaningful play. That rigidity—short bit plus a tight holder—reduces runout and helps keep the bit aligned when you’re starting screws one-handed.

Real-world use: wood, light-gauge metal, and small hardware

Most of my #1 Phillips work is on #6 screws: cabinet hinges and latches, decorative hardware, electrical faceplates, door strike plates, and the odd sheet-metal cover where #2 would be too large. The bit did well across all of these.

• Electrical trim and switch plates: Faceplate screws are easy to mar. With the clutch turned down and speed low, the bit held without skating. No burrs on the screw paint, which is usually my first complaint when a tip is too pointy or too loose.
• Cabinet hardware: On soft brass #6 screws, especially pre-finished doors, the controlled feel mattered. The bit gripped well, and I could feather the last half-turn without cam-out. The short length made it easier to stay perpendicular in tight corners inside a cabinet carcass.
• Light-gauge sheet metal: For return-air grilles and appliance panels, the bit gave clean starts with self-tapping #6 screws. I used the impact driver sparingly (low mode) for removal and occasional installs without any tip chipping.
• Hobby work: On small assemblies with mixed fastener quality, it held up to the inevitable off-axis starts better than I expected. The tip edges didn’t mushroom, and it didn’t polish to the point of slipping.

Phillips is always going to cam-out if you push too hard or misalign; that’s part of the design. Still, relative to other #1 tips I’ve used, this bit felt less prone to ejecting under moderate torque. I credit the snub-nose geometry and the consistent heat treatment more than any magic steel formula.

Durability and wear

After a few weeks of steady use, the working edges show a mild polish, but there’s no rounding, flaking, or micro-chipping. The core didn’t twist, even after a dozen stubborn screws in sheet metal where I probably should have predrilled. Shock-resistant tool steel and a heat‑treated core aren’t marketing fluff—I can’t speak to the exact metallurgy, but the real measure is whether the tip deforms before the screw gives up. In my case, screws stripped before the bit did, which is what I want from a #1.

I didn’t push it into overt abuse—no lag screws, no drywall screws en masse, and no high-torque structural work because that’s not what a #1 is for. But I did let the compact impact driver “kiss” some fasteners on low settings. The bit tolerated that kind of light impact just fine. I wouldn’t call it a dedicated impact-rated solution, yet in practical terms it handled everyday bumps without complaint.

Control and feel

The combination of short length and precise grind makes this bit easy to steer. I noticed fewer “walk-offs” when starting screws one-handed on a ladder. The bit’s snub nose seats in the recess, and with a decent magnetic holder the screw hangs straight enough to start cleanly. Compared to a 2-inch power bit, I had better control but less reach; that’s the tradeoff. In cabinetry and trim, the trade favors the insert bit. Behind appliances or in deep recesses, it doesn’t.

Storage and the single-piece format

It ships in a small container that’s genuinely useful. I kept it in the same pocket as my bit holder and never chewed up the tip bouncing around with other bits. That said, a single #1 bit is easy to lose. If this is a size you rely on, plan to stash a spare in your kit. For heavy users, a multi-pack is smarter, but for the occasional cabinet/hobby/electrical task, one is fine.

Limitations to keep in mind

• Requires a bit holder: If you don’t already have one, add it to the cart; this insert bit won’t click into a quick-change chuck by itself.
• Limited reach: The 1-inch length won’t hit screws recessed behind trim or hardware lips. Keep a 2-inch #1 power bit on hand for those.
• Niche size: A #2 Phillips is the workhorse for framing and general construction. A #1 shines on smaller hardware. If your day is mostly deck screws and drywall, this won’t see much action.
• Not a specialty fastener solution: For stainless or decorative brass where slipping is costly, this bit is good—but no Phillips bit eliminates cam-out. Technique and torque control still matter.

None of these are flaws in the bit; they’re inherent to the format and the #1 Phillips standard.

Value and warranty

As a single piece, the cost is modest, and you get a 30‑day money‑back window if it doesn’t fit your workflow. I see the value in two scenarios: you need a dependable #1 for occasional tasks, or you’re tired of soft tips that round over after the first brass hinge. If you drive hundreds of #1 screws weekly, buy a small stash, but there’s no reason to overspend—this one holds up.

Who it’s for

• Cabinetmakers and installers dealing with #6 hardware
• Electricians and low-voltage techs who want clean, controlled starts on faceplates and device screws
• Hobbyists and model builders working with small fasteners in wood and light metal
• Anyone who prefers the stability of an insert bit plus holder over a long, flexible power bit for delicate work

Final thoughts and recommendation

The DeWalt #1 Phillips insert bit earned a spot in my pouch because it gets the fundamentals right: a crisp grind, a snub-nose profile that seats securely in shallow heads, and steel that resists twisting and edge wear. It’s not flashy, and it doesn’t pretend to be universal. It’s a well-made, short #1 tip that gives you control where it counts—on small, easy-to-strip screws.

I recommend it. If you regularly work with #6 hardware, faceplates, or any job where a #1 Phillips is appropriate, this bit’s fit and durability make everyday driving cleaner and less frustrating. Pair it with a good magnetic holder, keep your torque in check, and it should outlast the cheaper tips that turn every delicate screw into a gamble.