DeWalt 1 in. Side Strike Chisel

On a recent deck repair and bathroom refresh, I kept reaching for a 1-inch side-strike chisel as my beater tool. It’s billed as a demolition/scraper hybrid, and that’s exactly how I used it—somewhere between a wood chisel, a cold chisel, and a stiff scraper. If you’re the type who keeps a “sacrificial” chisel in your pouch for rough carpentry and jobsite cleanup, this one fits the role nicely, with a few quirks worth knowing before you buy.

Build and design

The blade is hardened, tempered carbon chrome steel, and the tool is built around a one-piece shaft. That continuity from tip to strike cap gives it a reassuring solidity. At 9.8 inches long and roughly 11 ounces, it feels compact but substantial—easy to choke up on for controlled scraping, yet long enough to swing confidently with a mallet.

The handle is a curved bi-material design with a generous guard. I liked the shape; it naturally indexes your grip and keeps knuckles clear when you’re hugging a surface. The overmold has enough texture for wet or gloved hands, and it didn’t feel plasticky or slick. Up top, a hardened strike cap takes the brunt of blows. There’s also an enlarged side-strike surface so you can hit the tool laterally to drive the serrated edge along a surface—a key part of its identity.

The side-strike edge in practice

The defining feature is the 1-inch side blade with a serrated cutting edge. Think of it as a scraper that can be struck, not just pushed. On window and door installs, I used it to shave expanding foam flush with jambs. A few light side strikes with a dead-blow mallet turned crusty foam into ribbons without gouging the substrate. The serrations bite into adhesive and foam far better than a smooth scraper; they “grab” on the first pass instead of skating.

I also used it to remove old caulk lines along a tub surround and to knock down blobs of construction adhesive on subfloor. In both cases, being able to strike the side of the blade let me keep the tool flat and controlled while still applying real force. The enlarged side-strike surface spreads impact and reduces the chance of glancing off and marring adjacent surfaces.

For deck work, the 1-inch tip slides nicely between boards to lift stubborn debris and scrape off splinters or paint ridges before reinstalling boards. It’s wide enough for useful material removal but narrow enough to get into corners and against framing.

Striking performance and durability

I primarily paired the chisel with a rubber mallet and a dead-blow. The strike cap shrugged off repeated hits without mushrooming. Side strikes were similarly uneventful—no chipping of the cap or alarming vibration.

That said, this is not a cold chisel for masonry and metal. When I took it to thinset ridges and a bit of mislaid mortar, it survived, but the cutting edge paid the price with small dings. Running into hidden fasteners, staples, and the occasional screw head did the same. That’s the tradeoff with a general-purpose construction chisel: the steel is hard enough to cut wood, foam, and adhesives aggressively, but not so hard that it resists all denting when you smack into metal or aggregate.

I avoid prying with chisels, and I’d advise the same here. The one-piece shaft makes the tool feel bombproof, but side-loading any chisel is a quick way to bend, chip, or crack something you care about. If you need leverage, use an actual pry bar; let this tool scrape and shear.

Edge retention and maintenance

Out of the package, the cutting edge is sharp and ready. After a few hours of mixed demo and cleanup, mine had predictable micro-chipping along the edge. A few passes with a mill file knocked down burrs, and a medium-grit diamond stone brought back a working edge. Expect a cycle of work, touch up, repeat—especially if you’re working in unknown conditions with hidden fasteners.

For best results:
- Set a modest micro-bevel (around 30 degrees). It trades razor sharpness for durability.
- Use a triangular file to refresh the side serrations; they’re harder to maintain with flat stones.
- Wipe the blade after dusty or wet work and add a light coat of oil; carbon chrome steel resists wear but will surface-rust if neglected.

If your work is predominantly clean wood paring, this won’t replace a fine chisel. It shines as a jobsite beater that you don’t baby.

Ergonomics and control

The handle is the right kind of chunky. The curve and finger guard let me lean into scraping without worrying about riding up the blade. Balance is blade-forward enough that the tool wants to stay in the cut but not so heavy that it fatigues your wrist in extended use. The 1-inch width hits a sweet spot: efficient for clearing material, yet nimble at door jambs, hinges, and baseboard lines during removal.

One practical note: there’s no sheath. If you toss it in a tool bag, protect the edge—both for safety and to save yourself from unnecessary resharpening.

Where it fits in the kit

I reach for this chisel when:
- Cleaning up foam, caulk, or construction adhesive.
- Shaving shims flush during door/window installs.
- Removing dried squeeze-out and glue drips.
- Scraping paint ridges and minor mortar droppings.
- Separating trim or breaking paint lines before pry-bar work.
- Rough paring on softwood where precision isn’t critical.

I avoid it when:
- Cutting fasteners or striking directly into concrete or masonry.
- Precision paring, joinery, or hinge mortising that demands a razor edge.
- Heavy prying where a dedicated bar is safer and more effective.

Durability over time

After several weeks of jobsite use, the handle shows minimal wear and the strike cap remains clean. The blade has picked up cosmetic scuffs and the expected edge dings, all of which clean up with a quick tune. The one-piece construction inspires confidence; there’s no ferrule loosening or handle slop to worry about.

The steel’s hardness feels appropriately tuned for its role: tough enough to take a beating in wood, foam, and adhesives, yet forgiving enough that chips can be dressed out without hours on a stone. If you want a chisel that stays razor sharp for months, look elsewhere. If you want one that survives ugly tasks and is back to work in five minutes with a file, this is that tool.

Wish list

• A simple edge cover would go a long way for storage.
• Offering a 1-1/2-inch version with the same side-strike capability would be great for faster scraping on flat expanses.
• Clearer guidance on acceptable hammer use vs. mallet only; the cap holds up, but I still default to a mallet for longevity.

Bottom line and recommendation

This side-strike chisel is a purpose-built construction companion—part scraper, part chisel, and fully willing to do the tasks you shouldn’t hand to your precision tools. It’s comfortable, stout, and genuinely useful for demo-adjacent jobs where you want controlled aggression. The serrated side edge and enlarged strike surface aren’t gimmicks; they make real tasks faster, from shaving foam to lifting adhesive and breaking paint bonds.

You’ll resharpen it more often than a fine woodworking chisel, and you’ll want to avoid metal and masonry contact when you can. But that’s the reality of a beater chisel’s job description, not a deal-breaker.

I recommend this tool for remodelers, installers, and DIYers who need a tough, strikeable scraper/chisel that lives in a pouch and takes daily abuse. If your work leans toward fine joinery, it’s the wrong tool; if your day is foam, caulk, glue, trim removal, and rough cleanup, it earns its keep.