Black & Decker 7.0 Amp 1/2 In. Electric Drill/Driver Kit

Why I reached for this corded drill

After a month of bouncing between various cordless drivers, I pulled out the Black & Decker corded 1/2-inch drill for a run of shop tasks: boring large holes in framing lumber, drilling through mild steel angle, and driving structural screws for a ledger repair. The first thing that stood out wasn’t flashy tech or Bluetooth—it was predictability. Plug it in, squeeze the trigger, and the power is there every single time. For jobs where runtime and torque matter more than convenience, that’s a refreshing change.

Build and ergonomics

This drill feels like a straightforward, work-first tool. The housing is sturdy, the trigger is smooth, and the all-metal keyed chuck gives it a reassuringly old-school vibe. At 5.1 pounds, it’s not feather-light, but it’s balanced well enough that I could drill overhead without fighting the nose too much. The rubberized grip helps, especially when your hands are dusty or oily. I appreciated the included 360° side handle—it locks down securely and can be positioned exactly where you need leverage.

There’s no belt hook and no case in the box. What you do get is the side handle, a chuck key, and a key holder clipped to the cord. The holder is simple but surprisingly useful; I never had to go searching for the key in the bottom of a toolbox.

Power and speed control

The 7-amp motor is the point of the story here. It’s geared for torque rather than high speed, topping out around 900 RPM. That suits larger spade bits, hole saws, and augers in wood, and it helps prevent overheating bits in steel. Feathering the variable-speed trigger gives good control down low; I could settle into a slow, steady crawl with a 3/8-inch twist bit in 1/8-inch plate without chatter.

There’s no two-speed gearbox or speed dial—just trigger control—so you need a steady finger for delicate work. The reversing brush system gives solid power in reverse, which is handy when backing out long bits or freeing a stuck hole saw.

Chuck and bit changes

The keyed 1/2-inch chuck clamps down hard on round-shank and hex-shank bits. Tightened properly (use all three key holes), it didn’t slip on me—not even with a 1-1/2-inch spade bit buried in a wet stud. It’s a secure, old-school solution, and I like that the jaws are steel and hold their alignment well under load.

That said, bit changes are slower than with a quality keyless chuck. If you make frequent bit swaps, expect the extra steps. I also ran into one fussy moment where a short hex-shank driver wanted to stick—solved by reversing the drill while holding the chuck key in the release hole. A couple of practical tips helped:

• Always tighten using all three holes for even jaw pressure.
• Seat shorter shanks deeper to avoid catching on the ridges.
• Keep the chuck clean; a shot of light oil now and then keeps it smooth.
• Tether the key or keep it in the holder so it doesn’t wander.

If your work demands constant bit changes, especially between drilling and driving, a keyless system or a dedicated impact driver will save time. But for heavy drilling, a keyed chuck still shines.

Drilling in wood

Wood is this drill’s natural habitat. With the side handle attached, I pushed 1-1/2-inch spade bits through Douglas fir studs without drama. The lower top speed helps large bits bite and clear chips. Hole saws up to about 3 inches ran fine in plywood and SPF; stay patient, back out occasionally to clear dust, and you won’t cook the teeth.

For cleaner holes in hardwoods, brad-point bits at moderate speeds worked well. I liked the control at the trigger—no sudden surges—and the torque reaction was manageable as long as I used the side handle and braced myself.

Drilling in metal

Steel requires discipline more than raw power, and this drill has the right balance. With cutting oil and a center punch, I ran a 1/2-inch twist bit in mild steel plate by stepping up sizes—1/8, 1/4, 3/8, then 1/2. The motor didn’t bog, and the slow maximum speed kept heat in check. The key is to let the bit do the work, keep the speed low, and use firm, consistent pressure. I wouldn’t pick this tool for repetitive small-diameter holes where a higher top speed would be faster, but for occasional steel work, it’s confident and predictable.

Driving screws and lag bolts

With no clutch, you have to pilot and control your trigger when driving screws. For structural screws and lag bolts, this drill is in its element—plenty of torque, and the side handle gives the leverage you need. For long runs of decking screws or cabinet work, a dedicated impact driver or drill/driver with a clutch is a better fit. I did drive a handful of 3-inch construction screws into PT lumber to test control, and while it worked, it demanded attention to avoid overdriving or cam-out.

Vibration, noise, and heat

Vibration is moderate for a corded drill of this size. The gear whine is present but not harsh, and after a dozen large holes, the housing was warm but never alarming. The cord strain relief is effective, and I didn’t see any hint of wobble at the chuck. It’s a simple, mechanically honest tool.

Corded trade-offs

The biggest advantage is consistent power and unlimited runtime. I never once had to think about battery charge or swapping packs in the middle of a tricky cut. On the flip side, the cord is a cord—plan your extension gauge appropriately (use heavier 14-gauge for longer runs), manage your slack, and be mindful on ladders. In a shop or garage, it’s an easy win; on a roof or far from outlets, less so.

Durability and serviceability

The all-metal chuck and solid gearbox feel built for years, and the two-year limited warranty adds some peace of mind. There are no exotic add-ons to break—no clutches, no gear selectors—just a motor, switch, and chuck. Keep the vents clean, oil the chuck occasionally, and store it with the side handle and key where you can actually find them. That’s about the extent of maintenance.

What it doesn’t do

• There’s no hammer mode. For masonry, you can nibble with a carbide bit and patience, but it’s not the right tool for anchors in concrete.
• The 900 RPM top speed isn’t ideal for small-diameter bits in metal where higher surface speeds are faster and cleaner.
• Bit changes are slower than on a good keyless chuck.
• No clutch for delicate screw driving, so finesse is required.

Who it’s for

• DIYers and homeowners who need a dependable, budget-friendly drill for wood and occasional steel.
• Shop users who value plug-in reliability and torque for bigger bits.
• Anyone tired of battery roulette and just wants a drill that’s ready when the lights are on.

Who should look elsewhere:

• Pros who drill masonry regularly—get a hammer drill.
• Users who make constant bit changes—consider a keyless-chuck drill or an impact driver combo.
• Those doing lots of fine screw driving—look for a clutch-equipped drill/driver.

The bottom line

This corded Black & Decker drill is a straightforward, torque-first tool that trades cordless convenience for plug-in reliability and strong, low-speed control. It handles large holes in wood with confidence, manages steel competently with proper technique, and drives structural fasteners when needed. The keyed chuck is both its strength and its annoyance: rock-solid grip under load, but slower and occasionally fussy when swapping bits. Ergonomics are good, the side handle actually matters, and the overall build inspires confidence rather than flash.

Recommendation: I recommend this drill to anyone who wants reliable, affordable torque for shop and home projects, especially if you prioritize consistent power over cordless convenience. It’s a strong fit for drilling wood, occasional metal work, and driving larger fasteners. I would not recommend it if your workflow hinges on rapid bit changes, frequent delicate screw driving, or any kind of masonry—there are better tools for those tasks. If you can live with a keyed chuck and you like the idea of endless runtime, this one earns a spot on the shelf.