Bosch 3-Piece Daredevil Standard Spade Bit Set

Why I keep reaching for these spade bits

I first put the Bosch Daredevil spade bits to work during a stud-by-stud rough-in for a small shop build—lots of 1/2, 3/4, and 1-inch bores through SPF studs and some laminated headers. By the end of the day, I’d formed a pretty clear opinion: these are faster and less fatiguing than traditional flat spade bits, with hole quality that’s good enough for rough carpentry and light MEP work. They won’t replace a Forstner bit for cabinetry, but that’s not their mission. For fast, repeatable holes in framing lumber, they perform like you’d hope.

What’s in the set

This three-piece set covers the most common rough-in sizes: 1/2, 3/4, and 1 inch. The bits are standard-length and feature a 1/4-inch hex shank with a power groove for secure retention in quick-change chucks. There’s no case in the package, which is a small annoyance given how easily spade bits can nick each other in a bucket—more on that later.

Design details that matter

A couple of design choices change how these bits behave compared to plain spades:

• Full-cone threaded tip: It self-feeds and pulls the bit through the material. That means less pressure from you and, typically, a faster cut.
• Contoured paddle: The scooped profile actually does push chips out efficiently, so you don’t need to “peck” the hole as often to clear debris.
• Spur and reamer edges: The outer tips score the perimeter and the trailing edges open it up, which noticeably cuts down on blowout compared to flat spades.

The hex shank with the power groove locked solidly in both my drill/driver and quick-change extensions. I didn’t experience any spin-out in the chuck, which can be an issue with round-shank spade bits when they bind.

Speed and control in real use

The self-feeding tip is the star here—and the caveat. In 2x SPF, the 3/4-inch bit averaged about 2–3 seconds per hole with a mid-range 18V drill on a medium speed setting. The 1-inch bit typically needed 3–5 seconds. That’s notably quicker than conventional spade bits I’ve used, and I didn’t have to lean on the drill to get it moving.

In denser stock (some oak blocking and LVL), the threaded tip still carried the bit forward, but the torque spikes were real. The bit wants to pull; your wrists need to be ready. A side handle on the drill is smart with the 1-inch bit in anything harder than SPF. If you’re drilling overhead or in awkward positions, slow the RPMs and feather the trigger so the tip doesn’t yank the drill out of alignment as it bites.

With an impact driver, the 1/4-inch hex makes swaps quick, and the Daredevils held up fine under impact pulses. That said, I generally prefer a drill for controlled feed. The self-feed action already wants to run; add impact pulses and it’s easy to overrun the exit.

Hole quality and breakout

Spade bits aren’t beauty tools, but these leave a cleaner hole than flat spades. On the entry side, the spur points scribe the circumference well, so you don’t get that ragged, flaked entry. On the exit, I still back up the work if I can reach. Without a backer, I saw minimal flaring in SPF on 1/2- and 3/4-inch holes and moderate blowout on 1-inch through-holes—better than basic spades but nowhere near a Forstner or brad-point.

Two simple habits helped:

• Ease off the trigger for the last 1/4 inch so the reamer edges finish the cut.
• For visible surfaces, bore halfway, flip, and finish from the other side using the tip hole as a guide. The threaded point finds the pilot easily.

Hole size ran just a hair oversize, which is ideal for pulling wire or setting bushings—less so for tight-tolerance joinery. If you’re doweling or doing furniture work, reach for different bits.

Chip evacuation and heat

The contoured paddle does its job. In deep bores through doubled studs, chips cleared consistently without binding, and I only needed to withdraw to clear chips on long, continuous runs. Compared to flat spades, I saw less charring in pine, even when running the 1-inch bit at moderate RPM. In hardwood, keep the speed down. The edge geometry cuts aggressively; high RPMs on a dense board will find the burn line.

Durability and maintenance

After a few dozen holes in SPF and a handful in oak and LVL, the cutting edges still felt sharp to the fingernail and continued to pull clean shavings. Inevitably, spade bits take knocks and edge wear, but these didn’t round over prematurely. If you do hit a nail (I grazed a brad), expect a ding in the spur and the threaded tip to lose some bite. You can touch up the spurs and cutting edges with a small file or diamond card. The threaded tip is trickier—once that conical thread dulls, the self-feed loses its authority. At that point the bit still cuts like a conventional spade, just slower.

I didn’t have any issues with the hex shank deforming under impact use, and the power groove kept retention positive in a quick-change extension. That’s a tangible safety improvement over smooth round shanks that can slip under binding.

What the set gets right—and what it misses

What works:

• Speed with control: Less feed pressure, faster through softwood and construction lumber.
• Better-than-spade hole quality: Clean entry and tolerable exits, especially with a backer.
• Solid shank design: No slip in quick-change chucks and extensions.
• Useful sizes: 1/2, 3/4, and 1 inch cover a big chunk of rough-in tasks.

What could be better:

• Missing sizes: I often reach for 5/8 and 7/8 inches for certain electrical and plumbing runs; they’re not in this set.
• No case: They arrive carded. A sleeve or minimal pouch would keep edges from knocking together.
• Aggressive tip can over-pull: In hardwood or at high RPMs, the self-feed wants to take off. Use a side handle and slower speeds for control.

Comparisons and use cases

Against a basic flat spade, these are faster, require less pressure, and leave a cleaner hole. Against auger bits, they’re generally faster in shallow studs and sheet goods but don’t track as cleanly in deep material and won’t match augers for chip clearance in very thick timbers. Compared to premium spades from Milwaukee or Irwin, the Daredevil’s full-cone tip is more assertive than a non-threaded pilot, which I appreciate for speed in framing. If you prefer a slightly gentler feed and you work a lot in hardwoods, a non-threaded pilot or a replaceable-cutter spade might be more predictable.

For rough-in carpentry, running cable, boring for small PEX, and general shop projects that aren’t finish-critical, this set hits a sweet spot. For cabinetry, visible surfaces, or dowel-accurate joinery, switch to brad-point or Forstner bits.

Practical tips from the field

• Let the tip work: Don’t lean hard. The threaded point will feed; you’re mostly steering and managing speed.
• Manage exits: Back up the exit face, slow down near breakthrough, or finish from the opposite side.
• Use the right gear: A drill with a side handle for 1-inch holes in anything dense is worth it. Impacts are fine, but control is easier with a drill.
• Keep them separated: Without a case, store them in a roll or slip-on blade guards to protect the spurs and tip.
• Touch-up helps: A quick file pass on the main edges and spurs extends life noticeably.

Value

As a three-piece set, it’s a straightforward buy-in for core sizes. Typically, sets like this cost a bit more than bargain spades and less than specialty augers, and the productivity gain is real if you’re boring dozens of holes. I’d still plan to add 5/8 and 7/8 inches to round things out if electrical is your main game.

Recommendation

I recommend the Bosch Daredevil spade bit set for anyone doing framing, electrical rough-in, light plumbing, or general construction where speed and “clean enough” holes matter more than furniture-grade precision. The self-feeding tip reduces effort and time, the paddle geometry clears chips well, and the shank design stays put in quick-change chucks. The trade-offs—aggressive feed in dense stock, no included case, and the absence of a couple of intermediate sizes—are easy to work around and don’t overshadow the performance gains. If your work skews toward finish carpentry or fine woodworking, pair this set with brad-point or Forstner bits for visible surfaces; otherwise, these will likely become your go-to spades in framing lumber.