heneng 2 Pcs Structural Pipe Fitting, Fits 1-1/4" Nominal Galvanized Steel Pipe, Two Socket Cross Fitting, 3/16" Thick

Why I reached for these cross fittings

I needed a clean, rigid way to tie four pieces of 1-1/4" nominal schedule 40 pipe together at a single node for a small handrail and a utility rack. That’s exactly the junction these slip-on cross fittings are built for: one continuous run, plus two perpendicular runs intersecting it. I went with the heneng cross fittings because they’re a straightforward, Kee-style solution made from malleable iron with a hot-dip galvanized finish, and they’re sized properly for 1.66" OD pipe. No welding, no threading—just slide, square, and tighten.

Build quality and finish

Each fitting is hefty and confidence-inspiring. The walls are 3/16" thick malleable iron, which is about what I expect for structural slip-on hardware in this class. The hot-dip galvanizing is evenly applied on the sets I used—typical spangle and a slightly matte silver finish. I didn’t find any runs that materially interfered with assembly, though one socket had a tiny zinc nodule I knocked down with a file in a few seconds. Edges at the mouths are decently broken; not razor sharp, but I still deburr pipe ends as a matter of course to avoid scarring the galvanizing and to make insertion smoother.

The set screws are cup-point socket screws that bite into the pipe wall as intended. Threads were clean in all four screw bores I used—no chasing needed. I always add a dab of anti-seize or light machine oil to set screw threads on galvanized fittings; it makes torqueing more predictable and helps long-term serviceability.

Fit and compatibility

These are sized for 1-1/4" nominal steel pipe (1.66" actual outside diameter). With standard schedule 40 galvanized pipe, the slip fit was appropriately snug: not sloppy, not so tight I had to hammer anything into place. If your pipe has a heavy coating, mill scale, or dents, you may need to dress it lightly, but with off-the-shelf structural pipe I had no issues.

The geometry is what you want from a two-socket cross: a through passage allows a continuous post or rail, while the two opposing sockets lock perpendicular runs. I value this fitting when I want to keep a main member uninterrupted for strength and visual cleanliness, while still catching two rails or braces at the same elevation.

Installation and setup

Assembly is as friendly as it gets for pipe structures:

• Cut and deburr your pipe ends.
• Lay out the node.
• Slide the cross fitting into place.
• Square everything up and set your reveals.
• Tighten the set screws evenly.

I prefer to bring the screws to a firm snugness, square the assembly, and then make a final pass dialing each screw in gradually so I’m not shifting the alignment with a single hard twist. These set screws are meant to bite, so expect small witness marks on the pipe. If you’re building something you’ll reconfigure or want to avoid marring, you can place thin brass shims between the cup point and pipe, but that reduces bite; use your judgment.

No Allen wrench is included, so have a quality hex key or bit on hand. For safety-critical or load-bearing assemblies, I use a torque wrench with a hex socket to apply consistent torque and I’ll add a threadlocker compatible with galvanized surfaces if vibration is expected.

Strength and stability in use

With schedule 40 pipe, two of these crosses gave me a rigid node at a mid-span rail transition and a corner in a storage rack. Once tightened properly, I couldn’t induce slippage by hand or with moderate racking force. The 3/16" wall thickness and malleable iron body distribute clamping loads well, and the four-surface contact at a cross node inherently resists twisting when your design includes triangulation or fixed posts.

As with any slip-on system, strength is a product of the entire structure: pipe diameter and wall thickness, node count and spacing, bracing, and applied loads. These crosses are appropriate for light to medium-duty structural frames, guardrails, gates, stall fronts, and utility racks. For engineered or code-regulated railings, you’ll still need to meet local requirements and use proper spacing, base plates, and anchors.

Corrosion resistance

Hot-dip galvanizing is the right choice for outdoor and shop environments where moisture is present. My fittings have lived outdoors through rain cycles without any immediate oxidation beyond normal surface dulling of the zinc. The set screws are zinc-coated; they’ve held up fine in dry and mildly wet conditions. For coastal or aggressive environments:

• Consider a cold-galvanizing touch-up on any field cuts or deep scratches.
• Apply a thin grease or anti-seize to threads and the screw points.
• If the build is semi-permanent, a coat of suitable enamel over the assembly keeps it looking fresh.

For truly marine environments or food processing, stainless hardware or stainless mechanical fittings might be worth the cost jump, but for general shop, farm, and residential outdoor use, these are a good fit.

Use cases that suit this fitting

• Railings with continuous posts: Run a vertical or horizontal member straight through while adding two opposing rails.
• Grid and light frames: Build rigid rectangular modules without cutting the main run at every intersection.
• Animal stalls and gates: Strong nodes at latch or hinge elevations.
• Awnings and shade structures: Clean intersections that look more intentional than layered tees.

Because the cross lets a main member pass through uninterrupted, it reduces the number of cuts and potential weak points compared to stacking two tees back-to-back. It also keeps your node compact and visually tidy.

Limitations and cautions

• Not a substitute for welding in high-load or impact-critical applications. Slip-on systems are strong, but know your limits.
• Set screws can back off under sustained vibration if not torqued correctly or locked. Use appropriate threadlocker where needed.
• Galvanizing adds slight dimensional variation. If your design demands absolute precision, be prepared to fine-tune.
• The cups will mar the pipe surface. That’s normal, but it matters if you plan to reposition parts frequently.
• Not rated for overhead lifting or rigging.

None of these are deal breakers; they’re expected characteristics of this type of fitting. Planning around them leads to solid results.

Tips for best results

• Measure the actual OD of your pipe. “1-1/4 inch nominal” must be 1.66" OD for a proper fit.
• Deburr pipe ends; a quick chamfer pays off in smoother assembly.
• Lubricate or anti-seize set screw threads before tightening.
• Tighten incrementally in a cross pattern to maintain squareness.
• For outdoor installs, touch up cut ends with cold galvanizing compound.
• If alignment matters, clamp the assembly in place while you torque the screws so nothing creeps.

Value and who it’s for

As a two-pack, this is a sensible buy for small projects or to keep spares in the shop. If you’re building an entire fence line or a multi-bay rack, you’ll save time using crosses at key nodes instead of stacking fittings. DIYers who want sturdy, welding-free builds will appreciate the simplicity; pros who need predictable, repeatable assemblies will appreciate the consistency and finish.

Recommendation

I recommend these heneng cross fittings for anyone building light to medium-duty structures with 1-1/4" nominal steel pipe who wants a clean, strong, and corrosion-resistant four-way node without welding. They’re properly sized, easy to install, and the hot-dip galvanizing holds up in typical outdoor and shop conditions. Provided you torque the set screws correctly and design the overall structure responsibly, they deliver reliable performance and a tidy look at intersections where a continuous main member is advantageous.