DeWalt 11/16\" x 16\" x 21\" SDS Max Quad 4‑Cutter Drill Bit

11/16\" x 16\" x 21\" SDS Max Quad 4‑Cutter Drill Bit

Features

  • Rock carbide tip that increases carbide contact area for improved wear resistance
  • Four‑cutter head design for cutting efficiency
  • Four‑flute helix to aid debris removal
  • Open head design channels dust into the flutes for evacuation
  • Bonded tip‑to‑flute construction to improve tip retention
  • Fits SDS‑Max chucks (for use with SDS‑Max rotary hammers)

Specifications

Bit Diameter (In) 0.6875 (11/16")
Flute Length (In) 16.0
Overall Length (In) 21.5
Bit Length (In) 21"
Assembled Weight (Lbs) 1.35
Shank Style SDS‑Max
Shank Diameter (In) 0.6875
Tip Material Carbide
Tip Type 4‑Cutter
Bit Material Carbide tipped
Bit Type Masonry
Chuck Fitment SDS‑Max
Package Contents 1 bit
Case Included No
Recommended Safety Equipment Safety glasses

Solid carbide‑tipped SDS‑Max masonry bit with a four‑cutter head and a four‑flute helix. The tip is bonded to the flute and provides increased carbide contact area. The open head and flute geometry direct debris away from the cutting face. Intended for use with SDS‑Max rotary hammers.

Model Number: DW5808

DeWalt 11/16\" x 16\" x 21\" SDS Max Quad 4‑Cutter Drill Bit Review

3.3 out of 5

Putting the DeWalt SDS‑Max 11/16‑in bit to work

I put the DeWalt SDS‑Max 11/16‑in bit to work on a mix of tasks that regularly come up in concrete and masonry: boring through an 8‑inch poured foundation for a conduit pass‑through, drilling deeper holes for wedge anchors in a garage slab, and a few test bores in older block. Paired with a mid‑size SDS‑Max rotary hammer, the bit felt appropriately matched to the tool class: substantial, stable in the chuck, and confident under load.

Design and build

This bit uses a rock‑carbide, four‑cutter head with an open design that feeds dust directly into a four‑flute helix. That head/flute geometry matters more than marketing copy suggests. The open head keeps the cutting edges exposed and gives fine dust and chips a clear path into the flutes before they can pack around the tip. The four‑flute helix is relatively deep for an 11/16‑inch bit, and the core isn’t overly thick, so there’s a good balance between rigidity and chip capacity.

The tip is bonded to the flute rather than a small land at the nose, so there’s generous carbide contact area and solid support under the cutters. Over multiple holes in hard, relatively young concrete, the edges held up without chipping, and the bit stayed straight—no wobble or wandering beyond what you’d expect at this diameter.

Specs line up with what you want for through‑holes: a 16‑inch flute length and 21‑inch bit length (21.5 inches overall) give you the reach to clear an 8‑inch wall with plenty of flute left in the hole for dust evacuation. At about 1.35 pounds, it has enough mass to carry momentum without feeling cumbersome.

As the name implies, the shank is SDS‑Max (0.6875‑inch), so it’s strictly for SDS‑Max hammers. It will not fit SDS‑Plus or spline tools. The shank machining was clean, and I had no issues with insertion or retention in several different chucks.

Setup and compatibility

I ran the bit on two SDS‑Max rotary hammers: a 10‑amp class tool for anchor holes and a heavier 12‑amp when punching through a foundation wall. In both cases, the bit tracked true after a quick shallow start. If you’re stepping up from SDS‑Plus, expect noticeably less chatter and faster progress at this diameter—SDS‑Max simply delivers more energy per blow, and the bit benefits from it.

No case is included, so plan to store it in a sleeve or PVC tube to protect the carbide edges in transit.

Drilling performance

Through an 8‑inch poured foundation wall, the bit settled into a steady cutting rhythm after the initial seat. I like to start holes at low impact to establish position, then lean into the hammer’s full BPM. With this bit, advancing a few inches, pulling back to clear the flutes, then continuing was both efficient and clean. The open head and four‑flute helix cleared dust well enough that I didn’t have to fight blow‑back or slow down to prevent packing.

On a garage slab (about 4,000 PSI mix), anchor holes at full depth were uneventful: straight, consistent diameter, and minimal mushrooming at the exit when I backed off impact as I broke through. Hole quality stayed predictable across different concrete ages. In older, more aggregate‑rich material, I could feel the cutters contact larger stones, but the four‑cutter head didn’t catch or deflect; it just chewed through.

I did not intentionally drill rebar, and I wouldn’t recommend this bit for sustained rebar drilling. Four‑cutter heads handle incidental rebar contact better than two‑cutter designs, but they’re not rebar cutters. If you suspect embedded steel, scan ahead or be prepared to switch to a purpose‑built rebar cutter once you hit metal.

Dust evacuation and heat

With deeper holes, dust evacuation determines how fast you can work. The bit’s flutes moved material well, especially when I used a vacuum shroud. Even without active extraction, the open head prevented the tip from “riding” on packed dust. The bit ran cool for its size; after extended drilling, the shank was warm but not scorching, and there was no blueing or odor that would indicate overheating. That said, in very dry, high‑PSI concrete, it still pays to feather the trigger and cycle the bit periodically to maintain airflow.

Hole accuracy and finish

The 11/16‑inch diameter is a typical size for pass‑throughs and some mechanical anchors. The bit produced round, consistently sized holes that accepted sleeves and conduit grommets without a fight. Start‑up walking was minimal—with a perpendicular stance and a light touch to seat the cutters, I didn’t need a pilot. Breakout on the far face was controlled when I eased off as I finished; if you power straight through at full impact, expect some spalling on brittle surfaces, as with any rotary hammer bit.

Runout felt low. I checked a couple of holes with calipers and didn’t see out‑of‑spec enlargement. That’s particularly useful for wedge anchors that can be sensitive to hole oversize.

Durability and wear

After several deep holes and a handful of shorter anchors, the cutting edges still showed crisp geometry with only minor polishing. The bonded tip‑to‑flute construction appears to provide good support; I didn’t notice any micro‑fractures at the braze line. The flutes didn’t ding easily, which helps with ongoing chip conveyance. Normal wear rules apply: if you continually grind against rebar or overheat the bit, you’ll blunt the carbide and shorten life quickly, but in concrete and masonry, the wear rate felt favorable for this class.

Limitations and caveats

  • Tool requirement: It’s SDS‑Max only. If your fleet is mostly SDS‑Plus, this bit isn’t for you.
  • Not a specialty rebar cutter: Occasional contact is survivable, but don’t plan on chewing through bar all day.
  • Length is a double‑edged sword: The 21‑inch length gives reach but can amplify user error. Brace properly and keep alignment to avoid bending flutes or ovalizing the hole.
  • No storage: Without a case, protect the carbide edges in transport.

Tips for best results

  • Let the hammer do the work. Excessive feed pressure generates heat and slows evacuation.
  • Pulse and clear. Every couple inches, back out to empty the flutes, especially in deep holes.
  • Control the breakthrough. Ease off impact as you approach the far face to limit spalling.
  • Use dust extraction. A shroud or a helper with a vacuum speeds drilling and extends bit life.
  • Mark your depth. Tape or a collar ensures consistency for anchors.
  • Scan for steel. Avoid surprises by checking for rebar before you commit.

Value

In use, performance aligns with what I expect from a pro‑grade SDS‑Max bit: steady progress in hard concrete, good debris management, and durable edges. The four‑cutter head and open geometry aren’t just spec sheet filler—they translate into fewer stalls and cleaner holes. While there are premium bits on the market with complex carbide geometries for sustained rebar work, this DeWalt strikes a sensible balance for general concrete drilling at 11/16‑inch.

Recommendation

I recommend the DeWalt SDS‑Max 11/16‑inch bit for electricians, plumbers, HVAC techs, and general contractors who regularly drill medium‑to‑deep holes in poured concrete, block, and masonry with an SDS‑Max hammer. It cuts efficiently, clears debris well, stays cool under sensible technique, and holds its edge over multiple holes. If your work routinely involves drilling through rebar, look to a dedicated rebar‑rated bit; and if you only own SDS‑Plus tools, this isn’t your size. Otherwise, this bit is a reliable, well‑built option that delivers consistent, clean holes at a demanding diameter.



Project Ideas

Business

Epoxy Anchoring & Rebar Doweling Service

Offer precision drilling and adhesive anchoring for 5/8" threaded rod and #5 rebar in existing concrete and masonry. The 11/16" bit is ideal for the required adhesive-annulus clearance, and the four-cutter head speeds production. Target handrails, pergola/base plates, equipment pads, and structural tie-ins for remodelers and GC clients.


Retaining Wall Weep-Hole Retrofits

Provide drainage upgrades for block and stone walls by drilling 11/16" weep holes at set intervals and installing filter fabric inserts and face grates. The long flute length allows clean-through holes on thicker walls, reducing hydrostatic pressure and preventing bulging or efflorescence. Bundle with grading and backfill fixes for higher ticket value.


Custom Stone Fountain Fabrication

Build and install bubbling rock/basalt column fountains. Use deep, straight 11/16" bores for pump lines and hidden dowels, leveraging the SDS‑Max bit for speed through dense stone. Sell turnkey packages (stone, pump, basin, lighting) to landscapers and homeowners; upsell maintenance plans and winterization.


Smokeless Fire Pit Upgrades

Convert existing masonry or steel fire pits into low-smoke models by drilling precise intake and secondary-burn rings using the four-cutter bit for fast, clean holes. Offer on-site retrofits, include stainless mesh and heat-resistant finishes, and market as backyard air-quality and performance upgrades.


Outdoor Lighting & Conduit Pass-Throughs

Install low-voltage lighting and sensor wiring in masonry: drill 11/16" through-holes and recesses for LED pucks, junctions, and grommeted pass-throughs in walls, caps, and steps. The open head/flute geometry speeds dust evacuation, reducing cleanup and labor time. Partner with landscape designers and electricians for steady referrals.

Creative

Basalt Column Bubbling Fountain

Turn a basalt column or boulder into a bubbling fountain by drilling a deep 11/16" bore for pump tubing and a secondary hole for a rebar dowel/base pin. The four-cutter head and 16" flute length make it practical to drill straight, clean channels through dense stone. Route 1/2" vinyl/poly tubing through the hole, epoxy in a stainless dowel for stability, and cap the top with a small basin for a tranquil water feature.


Constellation Patio Lights

Drill a pattern of 11/16" shallow pockets in a concrete patio or slab to create a constellation map. Set frosted glass pebbles or resin pucks into the recesses with waterproof epoxy and feed low-voltage leads through discreet through-holes. The four-flute helix clears dust efficiently so you get crisp pockets for a flush, durable, walkable lighting install.


Smokeless Fire Pit Airflow Upgrade

Retrofit a steel or masonry fire pit with a double ring of 11/16" intake/secondary-burn holes near the base and upper burn zone. The open head design helps evacuate dust and slag as you drill through refractory brick or block. Improved airflow reduces smoke and boosts combustion for cleaner, hotter fires.


Modular Trellis Anchors

Drill 11/16" holes in patio slabs or retaining caps to epoxy-set 5/8" stainless threaded rods as removable anchor points for seasonal trellises or privacy screens. The rock-carbide tip handles aggregate without wandering, producing consistent holes that align with base plates or couplers for quick-change garden structures.


Stone Lantern Path Lights

Bore vertically through thick stepping stones or flat river rocks to pass low-voltage wiring and mount glass lenses above the hole. The 21" overall length gives reach for thicker pieces; set LEDs below and seal with clear resin for a durable, glowing stone lantern effect along garden paths.