DeWalt 9 in. 6 TPI Taper Back Bi-Metal Reciprocating Blade for General Purpose Wood Cutting

The first bite into nail-studded framing told me what I needed to know about the DeWalt 9-inch 6 TPI recip blade: it’s unapologetically aggressive. This is a fast, demolition-friendly blade built for ripping through wood and not flinching when it meets the occasional nail, hanger, or buried screw. If your day involves cutting out window openings, tearing down decks, or rough crosscuts in construction lumber, this blade’s personality fits the job.

Build and design

This is a bi-metal blade with a tapered back and a coarse 6 TPI tooth pattern. The bi-metal body gives you the usual mix of flexibility and durability—enough spring to avoid snapping under flex, with teeth that tolerate heat and abuse better than high-carbon blades. DeWalt reinforces the tooth line to survive nail strikes, and it shows. I was able to chew through multiple nail hits without catastrophic tooth loss; you’ll see rounding over time, but the blade keeps working.

Two other design elements matter in use:

• +6° hook angle: The teeth lean forward and want to feed. That’s what makes this blade feel lively and fast.
• Raker tooth pattern: More tooth contact and efficient chip clearing. In practice, it evacuates chips well, especially in wet PT lumber, and helps prevent the “stuttering” you can get with coarse blades.

The taper-back profile isn’t marketing fluff. It gives you some steering ability in tighter spots and makes plunge starts less jumpy. An anti-stick coating rounds out the package, and while coatings never last forever, it noticeably reduces pitch buildup and heat when you’re running long cuts in resinous lumber.

It’s made in the USA and uses a standard reciprocating saw shank, so it fits any mainstream saw.

Cutting performance in wood

Speed is this blade’s calling card. On 2x SPF and PT lumber, it tracks quickly with minimal pressure. The hook angle means it grabs the cut right away, so I prefer to start at low speed to avoid a jumpy entry, then roll into higher RPMs once the shoe is planted. With the saw’s orbital action engaged (if your saw has it), it really moves.

Expect a rough finish with 6 TPI—this is demolition-grade, not finish carpentry—but I found the cut reasonably controlled for a blade this aggressive. The taper back helps with curved cuts around notches and pipes, and the blade resists binding better than square-backed designs when you’re cutting on the pull stroke.

On 4x posts and doubled-up joists, the 9-inch length is the right choice. It gives you the reach to cut through in one pass with the shoe anchored, which keeps vibration down and improves accuracy. The tradeoff is that any 9-inch blade will flex more than a 6-inch. If you bury the blade and lean hard, you can induce some wander; use the shoe as a pivot and let the teeth feed rather than forcing it.

Nail-embedded wood

This is where the reinforced teeth earn their keep. I ran the blade through framing with roofing nails and the occasional drywall screw. Nail strikes slow the cut and you’ll feel a slight hitch, but the teeth don’t shatter. After several impacts, I saw rounding, then a gradual drop in cutting speed, but the blade stayed serviceable for a full small-demo session.

If you regularly chew through heavily fastened lumber (ledger boards, old deck beams riddled with screws), carbide-toothed blades will outlast this bi-metal option by a wide margin. They also cost a lot more. For general remodeling and selective demo, this DeWalt hits a practical value/performance sweet spot.

PVC and plastics

The blade will cut PVC quickly thanks to the hook angle and low TPI, but it leaves a ragged edge and can snatch thin-wall pipe if you’re heavy-handed. For clean edges on plumbing work, a finer 10–14 TPI blade is better. If you use this one, slow your stroke, back off pressure at breakthrough, and plan on a quick deburr.

Heat, pitch, and coating life

The anti-stick coating reduces friction and noticeably slows pitch buildup in resinous framing. After a few hours in PT and cedar, I could wipe off residue easily rather than scraping tarry gunk. The coating wears on the tooth line first—expected—and you’ll see shine develop on the flats after extended use. Even then, it continues to run relatively cool if you keep the blade moving and avoid binding.

A simple pro tip: if the blade feels like it’s laboring, don’t just squeeze harder. Back out, clear chips, and re-engage at lower speed for a couple strokes to cool things off. A little spritz of cutting wax or a quick clean with mineral spirits between cuts in pitchy wood keeps performance snappy.

Control and vibration

With the shoe planted and a two-hand grip, vibration is manageable. The coarse tooth and hook angle can make plunge starts lively, so I score the surface at low speed first. The taper back lets you feather the cut line with subtle wrist pressure. If your saw has orbital mode, it boosts speed but adds chatter; I toggle it on for demolition and off when I need straighter tracking.

Curved cuts through subfloor and around pipes are workable. Don’t expect jigsaw-like precision, but steering is better than most straight-backed demolition blades.

Durability and lifespan

Bi-metal means bend-not-break. I put the blade through framing demo, a deck rail tear-out, and a handful of plunge cuts in subfloor before it slowed noticeably. After multiple nail hits, the teeth still cut wood well but were less eager on metal contact. That’s typical. The body resisted kinks and never snapped at the tang despite some unavoidable binds in awkward positions.

If you primarily cut clean, dry lumber, you’ll get long life. Frequent metal strikes shorten the useful “fast cut” window, but the blade doesn’t become useless—it just shifts from “rips” to “chews.” That’s a fair trade at this price tier.

Practical tips for best results

• Start slow, plant the shoe, then increase speed to avoid grabby starts.
• Let the blade feed; excessive pressure encourages wander on a 9-inch blade.
• Use orbital action for speed, switch it off for straighter cuts.
• For nail-embedded runs, keep a fresh blade handy to finish cleanly if speed drops.
• Wear gloves when handling; the coarse teeth are unforgiving.
• For PVC, use light pressure and finish with a deburr for a cleaner edge.

Value and pack options

This blade is commonly available in multi-packs, including 25-count, which makes sense for pros and remodelers who burn through blades on demo. The cost-per-blade value is solid for a bi-metal with reinforced teeth, and there’s a 30-day money-back guarantee if it doesn’t meet expectations. If you need only a couple for a weekend project, singles are often available, though the multi-pack pricing is more compelling.

Who it’s for

• Remodelers and carpenters doing selective demolition in wood and nail-embedded wood.
• DIYers opening walls, cutting out subfloor, or replacing deck sections.
• Anyone who prefers a fast-cutting, aggressive blade over a fine-finish cut.

Who should look elsewhere:

• Finish carpenters wanting clean edges—choose a finer TPI blade.
• Crews that constantly hit heavy-gauge fasteners—consider carbide-tooth recip blades.

Bottom line

The DeWalt 9-inch 6 TPI recip blade is a fast, durable, and controllable option for general wood cutting and light nail encounters. The +6° hook and raker pattern make it feel quick and confident, the anti-stick coating keeps it from gumming up prematurely, and the tapered back genuinely helps with plunge starts and steering. It won’t replace a carbide blade for metal-heavy demo, and it’s not the right choice for finish work, but in its lane—framing, subfloor, deck work—it’s a dependable performer.

Recommendation: I recommend this blade for anyone tackling general-purpose wood cutting and remodeling tasks where speed matters and occasional nails are part of the job. It offers a strong balance of cutting speed, durability, and control at a fair price, especially in multi-packs, and the 30-day guarantee provides a low-risk way to put it to work.