DeWalt 12-in 6 TPI Demolition Reciprocating Saw Blade

Why I keep a 12-inch demo blade in the kit

On jobs where reach, speed, and forgiveness matter more than finesse, I reach for a long, low-TPI recip blade. This DeWalt 12-inch demo blade hits that brief well. It’s a 6 TPI, bi‑metal, tall‑profile blade built for wood and fiber cement, and I’ve been using it for rough carpentry, tear‑outs, and occasional yard work where a chainsaw is overkill. It’s not a do‑everything blade, but it does a few things remarkably well and survives the abuse that demolition work inevitably throws at it.

Build and design

This blade is bi‑metal with a 1-inch tall profile and roughly 0.07-inch thickness. That extra height matters: it makes the blade track straighter in long cuts and resists the floppy, noodly behavior that thinner blades exhibit when you lean on them. The tooth geometry is aggressive—6 TPI is optimized for fast material removal in wood, not for leaving clean edges. The teeth are precision-set, so the kerf is wider than the body, which helps shed chips and reduce binding.

The 12-inch length is the other big story. It lets you reach across double studs, cut through stacked materials, or undercut overhangs without the chuck smacking the work. It also makes plunge cuts and rough flush cuts more manageable. The tradeoff with any 12-inch blade is increased vibration and potential for chatter. The taller body helps keep that in check.

Fit and setup

It’s a standard universal shank. I ran it in a DeWalt cordless recip and a Milwaukee Super Sawzall with zero fitment issues. No case, single blade packaging; toss it in a blade caddy or it will get chewed up in a bag. There’s no stated warranty, which is typical for consumables.

Cutting performance in wood

In framing lumber, the 6 TPI teeth chew quickly. Speed feels on par with other quality demolition blades of the same pitch. Ripping through SPF studs, I could keep the shoe planted and let the blade do the work without fear of kinking. The tall profile keeps the cut direction honest—there’s less wandering than I get from lower-profile blades, especially on long rips.

In plywood and OSB, expect tear‑out and splintering; it’s not a finish blade. If you need a clean edge, step up in TPI or switch to a finishing blade. For demolition and rough sizing, it’s perfectly acceptable. Cross-cutting 4x material takes a bit of patience compared to a chainsaw or circular saw, but with orbital mode on the recip, it moved through in a reasonable time and stayed cool enough that I wasn’t blueing the teeth.

Demolition and embedded fasteners

This blade is billed for wood and fiber cement. It’s bi‑metal, so it tolerates incidental nail strikes better than a pure HCS blade, but it’s not designed for sustained metal cutting. In real demo, you will hit nails and screws. Occasional contact dulled the teeth slightly but didn’t chip or strip them. If you expect heavy contact with metal or need to sever bolts, switch to a metal or carbide-tooth demolition blade. As long as I treated nails as “oops” rather than the target, the blade kept cutting wood efficiently for a good stretch of work.

The 12-inch length shines in tear‑outs. I could reach behind base plates to free stubborn bottom nails, reach through layers of lath and furring to sever framing, and cut flush to floor or wall surfaces with decent control. The stiffness meant fewer belly‑flexing moments that lead to crooked cuts or bent blades.

Fiber cement and masonry-adjacent tasks

Fiber cement is abrasive, and many users burn through blades quickly on it. This blade handled trimming and removal of fiber cement siding capably. It’s not as long‑lasting as a carbide‑tipped blade in that material, but for occasional cuts or removal where precision isn’t critical, it got the job done. Keep the feed rate moderate and let the tooth set clear dust—pushing too hard will heat the teeth and reduce life. For heavy fiber cement work, I’d still reach for a dedicated carbide blade.

Yard and pruning use

A 6 TPI profile also makes sense for green wood. I used this blade for pruning and limb clean‑up where a chainsaw would be awkward or overkill. It bites quickly in wet branches, tracks straight enough to avoid pinching, and the long length means you can keep the shoe anchored while staying clear of thorns or obstacles. For heavy, sappy hardwoods, expect more vibration and some clogging; backing out periodically clears the chips. A dedicated pruning blade with a hooked tip can feel a bit faster in green wood, but this DeWalt blade is a versatile stand‑in if you only want to carry one.

Control, vibration, and heat

Any 12-inch blade demands good technique. Keep the shoe planted, use a lower speed to start, and ramp up once the teeth are fully engaged. With that approach, vibration was manageable. The tall profile helps keep chatter down, and the blade didn’t corkscrew under load, which is what ruins long blades. Heat build‑up was minimal in wood as long as I didn’t bind the blade. In dense stock or fiber cement, braking the cut to clear chips and reduce friction noticeably extended tooth life.

Durability and lifespan

Bi‑metal blades live or die by tooth retention and resistance to flex fatigue. I didn’t experience tooth stripping or tip chipping in wood. After a day of mixed demo—cutting studs, sheathing, and some light siding removal—the blade still tracked straight and cut acceptably fast, though not as fast as fresh. It survived minor nail contacts without catastrophic dulling. That said, if you run it hard through metal, expect a rapid decline; it’s not marketed for metal and behaves accordingly.

The bigger risk with long blades is bending. I managed to avoid kinks by keeping the cut path supported and not prying with the blade. The 0.07-inch thickness and tall body help, but they’re not a cure for bad technique.

What it’s not

• It’s not a metal blade. It tolerates incidental contact, but don’t plan on cutting conduit, screws, or rebar with it.
• It’s not a finish blade. Expect rough edges and tear‑out in sheet goods.
• It’s not the best choice for very tight spaces where a shorter blade would give more control.

Who will like it

• Remodelers and framers who need a fast, stiff, long blade for structural lumber and general tear‑out.
• DIYers who want one blade that can handle deck demo on Saturday and trim small limbs on Sunday.
• Anyone needing extra reach for flush or behind‑the‑work cuts, with better tracking than a thin, whippy blade.

Value and alternatives

Sold individually with no case or warranty, it’s a straightforward buy. If you need a lot of blades for a large demo, multi‑packs often reduce cost per blade. Alternatives worth considering:
- A 9-inch, 6–8 TPI blade for tighter control in confined cuts.
- A carbide‑tooth demolition blade if you expect a lot of embedded metal or heavy fiber cement work.
- A dedicated pruning blade for frequent green‑wood cutting.

This DeWalt balances speed, stiffness, and durability well for wood‑first demolition without jumping to the price of carbide.

Tips for best results

• Let the tooth set clear chips; don’t force the cut.
• Use orbital action in wood for faster cutting and better debris ejection.
• Keep the shoe firmly against the work to minimize vibration.
• For fiber cement, reduce speed and avoid overheating; vacuum dust if possible.
• Avoid prying with the blade—use the saw as a cutter, not a lever.

Recommendation

I recommend this DeWalt 12-inch demo blade for anyone who needs a fast, long-reach cutter for wood and occasional fiber cement in demolition or rough work. The tall, thick body tracks straighter than many long blades, the 6 TPI teeth move quickly through framing and green wood, and the bi‑metal construction holds up to the inevitable bumps and nail grazes that come with tear‑outs. It’s not a metal cutter and it won’t leave clean edges in sheet goods, but within its lane, it’s reliable, predictable, and effective. If your work regularly mixes wood with a lot of steel, look to carbide; otherwise, this blade earns a spot in the saw case.