DeWalt 4.5 in. x 0.250 XP Sandwich Tuck Point Blade

Why I reached for this blade

I had a row of weathered brick joints to clean out on a 1920s facade—lime-based mortar in some spots, much harder Portland blends in others—and I needed a compact, dry-cutting solution that could live on a 4-1/2 in. grinder all day. The DeWalt tuck-point blade, a 4.5 in. by 1/4 in. segmented diamond “sandwich” blade, became my go-to for a week of repointing and a few side tasks chasing shallow channels in masonry. It’s not a glamorous accessory, but good tuck-point blades quietly make or break a repointing day. This one earned its keep.

Build and design

The blade’s core is a heat-treated steel body with laser-welded, cobalt-enhanced diamond segments. The segmented rim is the right call for dry cutting: it sheds heat and moves dust better than a continuous rim when you’re buried in mortar. At 0.25 in. thick, it creates a generous kerf that leaves the joint ready for a wash and pack without a second pass from a thin blade. The “sandwich” format, in practice, translates to a wide, stable track that resists wobble and a segment layout that doesn’t chatter as you bridge irregular joints or hit occasional aggregate.

The blade is rated to 13,300 RPM, which covers every 4-1/2 in. grinder I own. The core on my sample ran true out of the box—no lateral wobble when I checked it on the flange—and remained straight after several heat cycles. Segment height looked healthy, and the bond felt on the harder side, which typically favors longevity over raw speed in softer materials.

Setup and compatibility

Important note on arbor size: this blade is a straight 5/8 in. bore with no 7/8 in. knockout. If your grinder expects 7/8 in. diamond wheels, you’ll need the correct 5/8 in. inner flange or an adapter ring that actually supports the full bore. I ran it on a 5/8-11 spindle with a 5/8 in. flange and a locking nut; fit and centering were spot-on. Just verify your grinder/flange combo before you’re on a scaffold—there’s no included bushing in the package.

Because it’s a full quarter-inch thick, check the throat of your dust shroud. Some compact shrouds are tight around thin cutting wheels and can rub on a 0.25 in. blade at full tilt. My larger, adjustable shroud had plenty of clearance and allowed me to set a consistent depth.

In use: tuck pointing brick

The reason to choose a blade this wide is productivity on wider joints. On historic brick with 3/16–1/4 in. joints, the DeWalt tuck-point blade made efficient progress without stepping side-to-side to widen the slot. The first pass cleaned out roughly half the depth of standard joints; the second pass at a slightly different angle cleared the rest. The thick kerf tracks straight and is less prone to “walking” across a joint when you encounter hard and soft pockets. That stability matters when you’re trying not to blow out the arrises of softer brick.

Speed was steady rather than blistering, which I’ll take for control and reduced brick damage. Through older lime mortars, it moved quickly. In the areas where previous owners had used harder Type S patches, it slowed down but didn’t glaze. The cobalt-enhanced segments managed heat well; I saw some light color on the core after long, continuous cuts, but no warping. Crucially, it kept its bite through mixed hardness joints, where lesser bonds either burn up or polish smooth.

If you’re used to thin-rim blades, the heft here is noticeable. On a 10–13 amp grinder, throttle response stayed clean and bogging was rare. On a 7-amp compact grinder, you’ll feel it load more, especially in hard patches. That’s not a flaw of the blade so much as a reminder to pair it with a grinder that has the torque for a 1/4 in. kerf.

Concrete and stone odds and ends

For shallow chases in concrete block and cast-in-place walls, the DeWalt tuck-point blade cut clean grooves. The segmented rim throws a rougher edge than a continuous rim, but for chases that get covered, it’s a non-issue. Depth is the limitation: with a 4.5 in. diameter, practical cutting depth is just over an inch, depending on your shroud and flange stack. It’s great for grout raking, soft stone shaping, brick adjustments, and opening cracks; it’s the wrong tool for deeper saw cuts or any sort of tile work.

Dust and heat management

Dry tuck-pointing is a dust generator, and this blade moves a lot of material quickly. It shines when paired with a shroud tied to a 130–150 CFM dust extractor. With that setup, visibility is good and cleanup is manageable. Run it without extraction and you’ll be cutting blind and wearing a mortar beard. Heat-wise, the segmented design and bond keep temperatures in check if you pause occasionally to let air through the gullets. I didn’t need to resort to water on any of my cuts, which keeps life simple on vertical work.

Durability and wear

Longevity will always hinge on the mortar mix. In a week of mixed joints—softer lime, occasional dense Portland—wear was even and predictable. The bond didn’t chip or lose segments, which can happen if you nick fasteners or embedded debris. The wide body helps keep the segments supported and reduces edge breakage.

Plan your blade count around the job. For a full facade with inconsistent mortar, expect to use more than one blade. If you’re primarily in softer, uniform joints, a single blade goes a long way. The important thing is that the DeWalt tuck-point blade wears down steadily rather than failing suddenly, so you can plan your day and avoid mid-joint surprises.

Control, comfort, and safety

The blade’s mass actually helps with control. It smooths out minor hand wobble and resists chatter when you transition from crumbly joints to hard inclusions. The trade-off is gyroscopic effect: you’ll feel it more when you swing the grinder laterally. Use two hands, brace your forearms, and let the blade work. The segmented rim will happily grab if you twist in the cut; respect your approach angle and keep the grinder square to the joint.

Hearing protection, tight-fitting gloves, and a respirator are non-negotiable. The blade’s speed and width mean chips can be larger than you expect, especially at joint starts and stops. I like to score the first half inch of a joint lightly before I lean into a full-depth pass; it reduces spall at the edges of softer brick.

Where it fits—and where it doesn’t

• Choose this blade if your joints are 3/16–1/4 in. and you want to clear to repointing depth in two controlled passes. It’s also handy for opening cracks, cleaning block cores, and small chase work.
• Skip it for tight 1/8 in. joints; a narrower tuck-point blade will be faster, cleaner, and less risky to brick edges.
• Pair it with a grinder that has the torque to keep RPMs consistent, and make sure your dust shroud has clearance for a quarter-inch kerf.
• Verify your arbor/flange setup—this is a 5/8 in. bore with no knockout.

Pros

• Stable, straight tracking with a generous 1/4 in. kerf
• Durable segments handle mixed mortar hardness without glazing
• Heat-treated core stays flat; laser welds inspire confidence for dry cuts
• Predictable wear and good overall life
• Segmented rim clears dust effectively with an extractor

Cons

• 5/8 in. arbor only; no 7/8 in. knockout—check grinder compatibility
• Loads small, low-amp grinders in hard mortar
• Too wide for narrow historic joints
• Dust output demands a proper shroud and vac

Recommendation

I recommend the DeWalt tuck-point blade for repointing work where a 1/4 in. kerf is appropriate and you value stability and predictable wear over maximum cutting aggression. It’s a well-balanced, durable option that runs true, keeps its bite across varying mortar hardness, and plays nicely with a dust shroud for clean, dry cutting. Just confirm your arbor setup, bring a sufficiently powerful grinder, and plan for at least two blades on a larger, mixed-hardness job. If your joints are tighter than 3/16 in. or your grinder requires a 7/8 in. bore, choose a different blade; otherwise, this one is a solid, professional-grade workhorse for tuck-pointing and general masonry cleanup.