Skil 5-1/2 in 18-tooth carbide-tipped circular saw blade

Why I reached for this blade

I keep a small 5-1/2 in cordless saw in the truck for punch lists and quick cuts where dragging a cord or a larger 7-1/4 in saw doesn’t make sense. That saw lives or dies by blade choice. Lately I’ve been running the Skil 5-1/2 in 18T blade, a no-nonsense, general-purpose option aimed at fast rips and crosscuts. After several weeks of trim-outs, framing touch-ups, and a small decking repair, I’ve got a clear sense of where this blade shines and where it doesn’t.

Setup and compatibility

The blade dropped onto my 5/8 in arbor without drama; the diamond knockout stayed in place, and there was no noticeable runout once torqued down. Skil’s thin kerf spec (0.04 in) is on the skinny side for this category, which is part of why it pairs well with compact cordless saws. Less steel means less resistance, which means less bogging and better runtime. Just be mindful: ultra-thin plates reward a steady hand and a straight fence or guide. If you bully the feed or twist the saw mid-cut, any thin blade can deflect.

The coating is a clear anti-stick finish, not a thick paint. That matters because thicker coatings sometimes abrade and gum up quickly. This one stayed slick after several cuts through wet SPF and treated 2x stock.

Cutting performance in framing lumber

In 2x SPF and hemlock, the blade is convincingly fast. With only 18 teeth, it’s built for speed rather than polish, and that shows. Crosscuts through 2x4s were decisive with a relaxed feed. On rips, I could lean in a bit more without triggering thermal complaints or stalled RPMs. The ATB grind and induction-hardened carbide do their job—chips clear well, and the saw’s motor isn’t fighting to evacuate dust.

The anti-kickback shoulders aren’t magic, but they add a bit of confidence when you hit a knot or an odd grain reversal. The saw stayed stable without the grabby, self-feeding sensation you sometimes get on bargain blades.

Plywood, OSB, and sheet goods

With plywood and OSB, you feel the tradeoff of an 18T layout. It will absolutely power through 3/4 in ply and subfloor, and if your priority is speed and you don’t mind a rougher edge, it’s fine. Tear-out on the exit face is noticeable, particularly with hardwood veneers. I had better luck with blue tape and a shallow scoring pass, then a full-depth cut—still not a furniture-grade result, but clean enough for construction and underlayment work.

On melamine and prefinished ply, this blade is not the right choice if visible edges matter. Even with tape and a backer, the chipping was more than I’d accept for finished surfaces. For those materials, swap to a higher-tooth count 40T–60T blade sized for your saw.

Plastics and composites

Skil lists plastic and composite decking as intended materials, and I put it through both. For PVC trim, a slow, steady feed avoided melting and left a serviceable edge with minor fuzzing that sanded out easily. Composite decking ripped and crosscut fine, though resin buildup is always a risk with composites; the anti-stick coating delayed that, and a quick pitch removal after the day kept the teeth clear. Again, it’s a construction-grade finish, not showroom.

Vibration, heat, and noise

The expansion slots do their part. I didn’t hear the high-pitched singing that some thin plates develop at speed, and the saw felt composed even in longer rips. Heat buildup was minimal in dry wood—no blueing on the plate, and no odor signaling a hot bind. The coating helps here too; chips don’t smear and drag on the plate the way they do with uncoated blades once pitch accumulates.

One caveat: thin kerf blades reward a well-tuned saw. If your baseplate is out of square or your shoe wobbles, you’ll feel more chatter than you would with a heavier plate. Square your saw and use a guide on longer cuts, and the blade tracks true.

Cut quality and accuracy

This is a rough-cut blade, and it behaves like one. Shoulders on 2x stock are clean enough to nail to, and lines are easy to follow. I measured variation against a guide over a 6 ft rip and had no meaningful wander once I set the fence and maintained a consistent feed. If you try to freehand long rips, the thin kerf can “hunt” a little in dense knots; keep your pressure centered and don’t pry the saw sideways to correct—let the teeth work back to the line.

Tooth life and maintenance

Carbide quality on budget blades is often where corners are cut. Here, edge life is solid for the class. After multiple days of mixed-material cutting—construction lumber, a couple sheets of ply, and some composite deck boards—the teeth still felt crisp to the fingernail test and cut without burning. That said, carbide doesn’t love nails or screws. I nicked one buried decking screw and it cost a tiny chip in a tooth. The blade kept cutting, but you’ll feel a faint tick each revolution. As always, check your stock.

Pitch removal was easy; the clear coating resists buildup, and a basic blade cleaner had it looking new in ten minutes. Keep it clean and it will keep its bite longer.

Safety and control

The anti-kickback shoulders and the relatively open gullets make this a predictable cutter. It doesn’t try to self-feed, and it doesn’t load up with dust to the point of stalling in thicker stock. Still, remember it’s a fast-cutting 18T—respect kickback risks, support your offcuts, and keep your cut line open to avoid binding.

Battery runtime benefits

If you use a compact cordless saw, this is where the blade earns its keep. That 0.04 in kerf pays dividends. The motor draws less current, and you feel that in the trigger finger—longer cuts per charge and fewer moments where the saw’s electronics step in to protect the battery. On my 18V saw, I got noticeably more crosscuts in 2x material compared to a heavier, older blade I’d been running. It’s not a night-and-day upgrade, but it’s enough to matter when you’re working off a ladder or knocking out cuts away from the charger.

Who it’s for—and who it isn’t

• Ideal for: Framing, blocking, subfloor, outdoor repairs, and any jobsite task where speed, control, and cordless efficiency trump surface quality.
• Acceptable for: Plywood cuts that will be hidden or edge-banded later, rough trimming of PVC and composites with a quick cleanup pass.
• Not ideal for: Visible melamine, veneered plywood cabinetry, or finish trim where you need a crisp, chip-free edge.

If your 5-1/2 in saw is your primary tool for finish carpentry, you’ll want a finer-tooth blade on hand and treat this as your rough-work option.

Pros and cons

Pros:
- Fast cutting with low feed resistance; great for cordless runtime
- Good tracking and low vibration for an ultra-thin plate
- Coating resists pitch and corrosion; easy cleanup
- Predictable behavior in knots and dense grain
- Solid value as a general-purpose jobsite blade

Cons:
- Rough finish in sheet goods; visible tear-out in veneers and melamine
- Thin kerf can deflect if you force the saw or freehand long rips
- Not forgiving of hidden fasteners; a single screw can chip a tooth

Tips to get the most from it

• Use a guide for long rips. The thin plate rewards straight guidance.
• For plywood, score shallow or tape the cut line and orient the good face down.
• Slow your feed on plastics to avoid melting; let the chips clear.
• Keep it clean. A quick de-pitch after a day’s work extends edge life and reduces heat.
• Check for the diamond knockout only if your saw requires it; otherwise leave it intact.

Recommendation

I recommend this Skil 5-1/2 in 18T blade for anyone running a compact circular saw who needs a fast, controllable cutter for jobsite tasks. It plays to the strengths of small saws—light draw, quick cuts, and decent accuracy—while keeping vibration and heat in check. You won’t get finish-grade edges on veneered sheet goods, but that’s not what this blade is designed for. As a general-purpose, rough-cut workhorse that maximizes cordless runtime and stays sharp through typical construction materials, it’s a smart, affordable choice to keep in the kit.