A wire stripper is a handheld tool that removes the protective insulation from electrical wire without nicking the metal conductor, using sized cutting notches or precision blades; it helps you prepare clean, accurate wire ends for connections, repairs, and installations in household circuits, low-voltage systems, and electronics while improving safety, reliability, and speed.
Wire Stripper
A wire stripper is a small hand tool designed to remove the insulation from electrical wire cleanly and accurately. It exposes just the right length of copper so you can attach the wire to terminals, twist on wire connectors, or crimp on lugs without damaging the conductor. Whether you’re replacing a light switch, installing a smart thermostat, or repairing a lamp cord, a quality wire stripper makes the job faster and more reliable.
How a Wire Stripper Works
Most wire strippers look like pliers with a set of numbered notches along the jaws. Each notch corresponds to a wire gauge (size). You place the wire in the correct notch, squeeze the handles to cut only the insulation, and pull to slide the insulation sleeve off—leaving smooth, undamaged copper. Some models cut and strip in one squeeze; others have a separate cutter near the pivot for trimming wire.
- Wire size markings: In North America, sizes are often labeled in AWG (American Wire Gauge), such as 14 AWG or 12 AWG. Many tools show both solid and stranded markings because stranded wire is slightly larger for the same gauge.
- Strip length guides: Devices like outlets and switches often have a strip-length gauge on the back. Match that length for a proper connection.
Common DIY Uses and Applications
- Replacing or installing light switches, outlets, and dimmers
- Wiring light fixtures and ceiling fans
- Adding or replacing doorbells, thermostats, and smart home sensors
- Splicing low-voltage cable for landscape lights, speakers, or security systems
- Repairing appliance cords, extension cords, and small electronics leads
- Terminating wires with crimp connectors, ferrules, or ring terminals
In all these tasks, a clean strip helps ensure a low-resistance connection that stays secure and runs cooler.
Types of Wire Strippers
- Manual notched strippers: The classic plier-style tool with gauge-specific holes. Great control at a low cost and excellent for household work (e.g., 10–20 AWG).
- Automatic (self-adjusting) strippers: Clamp the wire and pull insulation off in one action. Handy for stripping many wires quickly or mixed sizes, especially in low-voltage and electronics work. Many have tension adjustments.
- Combination stripper/cutter/crimper: Adds crimping dies for insulated and non-insulated terminals and sometimes bolt cutters for trimming 6-32 and 8-32 screws.
- Precision adjustable strippers: Feature a blade depth stop for delicate insulation on small wires (often used for electronics and hobby projects).
- Rotary/Coax strippers: Designed for coaxial cable (TV/internet). They score the outer jacket and dielectric to prep for compression connectors.
- Thermal strippers: Use heat to soften tough insulation (like PTFE). Mostly for specialized work, not typical household use.
How to Choose the Right Wire Stripper
- Match your projects: For basic home wiring (12–14 AWG solid copper in NM-B/Romex), a manual notched stripper with 10–20 AWG coverage is a solid pick. For small electronics and low-voltage (18–24 AWG stranded), consider a self-adjusting or precision model.
- Check markings: Clear AWG markings for both solid and stranded are helpful. Metric mm² markings are a plus if you work with imported cable.
- Comfort and build: Look for cushioned grips, smooth pivot action, and a spring return. A locking latch for storage is helpful.
- Extra features: A built-in cutter, screw shear, and crimping dies reduce tool changes. Keep in mind these add bulk.
- Quality blades: Hardened, sharp edges reduce nicks and make cleaner strips. Try the action in-store if possible.
Step-by-Step: Using a Wire Stripper Safely
- Turn off power and verify with a non-contact tester if working on household circuits.
- Measure strip length using the device’s gauge or the instructions for your connector.
- Select the correct notch for the wire size. If between sizes, test on scrap first.
- For stranded wire, align the conductor straight; for solid wire, keep it centered.
- Squeeze handles to lightly cut the insulation without crushing the copper.
- Pull the tool toward the wire end to slide the insulation off in one smooth motion.
- Inspect the copper. It should be shiny and round with no cut marks or missing strands. If damaged, cut and strip again.
- Prepare the end for the connection:
- Screw terminals: Make a neat hook or insert into clamp-style terminals as instructed.
- Wire connectors (wirenuts): Align ends evenly; follow the connector manufacturer’s direction on twisting.
- Crimp terminals: Use the correct die and crimp firmly; give a tug test.
Maintenance and Care
- Keep the jaws clean. Wipe adhesive residue (from old tape or jacket ink) with a bit of isopropyl alcohol.
- Lightly oil the pivot occasionally for smooth action; avoid oil on the cutting edges.
- Don’t cut steel nails, staples, or hardened screws with the wire cutter; it will dull the blades.
- Store dry and locked to protect edges. If the tool has an adjustable stop or tension knob, recheck it after heavy use.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Using the wrong notch: Too small can nick or cut strands; too large won’t remove the insulation cleanly.
- Stripping with power on: Always de-energize circuits and verify.
- Pulling at an angle: This can score the copper. Pull straight along the wire’s axis.
- Stripping too short or too long: Follow the strip-length gauge on the device or connector specs.
- Mixing solid and stranded gauges: A 14 AWG stranded wire may need a different setting than 14 AWG solid.
- Using a knife or teeth: Increases risk of injury and damage to the conductor.
- Over-reliance on backstab holes in outlets: Side screw or clamp connections, when properly prepared, are typically more secure.
Related Terms and Concepts
- AWG (American Wire Gauge): Standard for wire sizes in North America.
- Solid vs. stranded wire: Solid is one piece of copper; stranded is many fine strands. They strip differently.
- NM-B (Romex): Common house cable containing multiple conductors plus a ground under an outer jacket.
- Coaxial cable: Cable for TV/internet; requires a coax-specific stripper.
- Crimper: Tool used to attach terminals by deforming a metal sleeve onto the wire.
- Heat-shrink tubing: Insulating sleeve that shrinks with heat to protect and strain-relieve connections.
Practical Examples
- Replace a light switch: Turn off power, remove the switch, note the strip-length gauge, strip 5/8 inch of 14 AWG solid copper, form a hook, and tighten under the terminal screw.
- Repair a lamp cord: Cut out the damaged section, slide on heat-shrink, strip 3/8 inch of each conductor, twist strands neatly, crimp butt connectors, heat the tubing to seal.
- Install landscape lights: Use an automatic stripper on 12–16 AWG low-voltage cable, strip per the connector’s spec, and make weatherproof connections per kit instructions.
- Terminate speaker wire: Strip 1/2 inch of 16 AWG stranded, twist lightly to gather strands, insert into spring clips or banana plugs.
A wire stripper is a small investment that pays off with cleaner work, fewer connection problems, and faster project completion. Choose a tool matched to your wire sizes, practice on scrap, and inspect every strip—you’ll get consistent, professional-looking results on everything from outlets to low-voltage projects.