Speed Bit (Spade Bit): What It Is and How to Use It

A speed bit typically means a spade-style wood-boring drill bit built for fast hole-making. You will also see it called a spade bit or paddle bit, and many brands market them as speed bits because they remove material quickly. These bits shine in framing and rough carpentry where you need holes fast and a smooth, furniture-grade finish is not required.

What people mean by "speed bit"

Most DIYers and pros use speed bit to mean a spade bit. Some catalogs use the term for other quick-drilling designs, but on job sites and in stores, it almost always points to the flat, paddle-like wood bit (often with a quick-change hex shank). If you are unsure, check the packaging: if it is a flat blade with a point and two cutting lips, you are looking at the spade-style speed bit.

How a speed bit works

A speed bit has three key features:

Center point (spur): Starts the hole and helps keep the bit on target.
Cutting lips (edges): Scrape and slice wood fibers to create the hole.
Flat paddle body: Clears chips quickly, especially at higher speeds.

Because the bit hogs out material rather than slicing a clean cylinder, it is fast but leaves a rougher hole with some tear-out on the exit side. That trade-off is perfect for hidden holes in studs and joists.

Common DIY and home uses

Running electrical cables: Drill 5/8 to 1-inch holes through studs and joists to route NM cable.
Plumbing rough-in: Create passages for PEX, CPVC, or copper lines, often 3/4 to 1-1/4 inches.
Fast bolt or dowel clearance: Make quick clearance holes in fence posts, beams, or temporary jigs.
Door and hardware prep (rough work): Start pilot recesses or pass-through holes where finish is not visible.
Outdoor projects: Deck framing, play structures, pergolas, and garden builds needing quick large holes.

Types and variations

Standard spade bits: Flat paddle with a point and two cutting lips. Affordable and widely available from 1/4 to about 1-1/2 inches.
Self-feed tip spade bits: Small threaded screw tip pulls the bit into the wood for faster drilling with less pushing. Great in studs but requires a strong drill.
Multi-spur or notch designs: Extra spurs or notches score fibers for a slightly cleaner entry and improved chip ejection.
Tri-flute bodies: Three-flute shanks for better chip clearing and less binding in deep holes.
Impact-rated hex shank: 1/4-inch hex shank that locks into impact drivers or quick-change chucks. Useful in tight spaces.
Stubby bits: Short length for drilling in cramped areas or between studs.
Extra-long and extension systems: 6, 12, or 16-inch bits and extension shafts for reaching through multiple studs or joists.
Combination spade/auger hybrids: Spade profile with an auger-like twist near the tip for aggressive feeding and chip removal.

Choosing the right bit

Material: For construction lumber, standard carbon steel spade bits are fine. For dense hardwoods, pick versions with extra spurs or cutting notches.
Shank type: If you use a quick-change chuck or an impact driver, choose hex shank bits.
Tip style: Self-feed tips speed things up but can grab hard; if you are new to them, stick with a plain tip or use a drill with a side handle.
Size range: Common electrical holes are 3/4 to 1 inch; plumbing often requires 1 to 1-1/4 inches. Buy a set that covers 3/8 to 1-1/4 inches for general projects.
Length: Standard 6-inch bits reach through a single stud. Use long bits or an extension for stacked members or floor systems.

How to use a speed bit

Mark and align: Mark the hole center. Place the center point on the mark and square the drill to the surface.
Set speed: Use a medium to high drill speed for softwood; slow down in hardwoods. Impact drivers can work, but a drill with a side handle gives better control.
Start straight: Apply light pressure until the center point bites. Keep the drill steady and aligned.
Clear chips: Back the bit out periodically to clear chips, especially in deep holes. This prevents binding and overheating.
Reduce tear-out: When drilling through, stop as soon as the point just breaks through. Flip the work and finish from the other side. If you cannot flip, clamp a scrap backer on the exit side.
Control feed: Let the bit cut. Do not force it. If using a self-feed tip, be ready to feather the trigger and brace the drill.
Mind hidden hazards: Use a stud finder with wire/pipe detection when drilling into walls.

Maintenance and sharpening

Sharpen cutting lips: Use a small flat file to touch up the cutting edges. Maintain the original angle. Avoid filing the center point shorter than the cutting lips.
Clean resin: Pitch and resin buildup increase heat and drag. Wipe with mineral spirits and dry thoroughly.
Inspect shank: If the hex shank rounds over, retire the bit; a worn shank can slip and cause wobble.
Storage: Keep bits in a sleeve or roll to protect edges and your hands.

Common mistakes to avoid

Expecting clean, splinter-free holes: For clean holes in visible work, choose a Forstner bit or hole saw instead.
Using hammer mode: Turn off hammer mode. Hammering can damage the bit and the drill.
Over-speeding in hardwood: Too much speed causes burning and dulls the bit quickly.
Forcing the bit: Excessive pressure bends the bit, causes wandering, and risks kickback with self-feed tips.
Drilling near edges without support: Use a backer board or drill from both sides to reduce breakout.
Using on metal or masonry: Spade bits are for wood and some plastics only. For metal, use twist or step bits; for masonry, use a masonry bit.

Related tools and terms

Spade bit / paddle bit: The common names for the speed bit style.
Self-feed bit: A larger, cup-style wood bit with a screw tip for very fast, large holes; used in framing and plumbing.
Auger bit: Spiral wood bit that drills clean, deep holes with good chip removal at lower speeds.
Forstner bit: Bores flat-bottom, clean holes for cabinetry and visible work.
Hole saw: Cuts larger diameters with cleaner edges; slower than a spade bit but better finish.
Twist drill bit: General-purpose bit for small to medium holes in wood, plastic, and metal (with the right type).

Practical examples

Running NM cable through studs: Use a 3/4-inch spade bit. Drill centered in the stud face and maintain at least 1-1/4 inches of clearance from edges, or add nail plates for protection.
Deck rail post bolts: Drill a 1/2-inch clearance hole through a 4x4 post for carriage bolts. Clamp a backer to reduce exit splinters.
Sink cabinet plumbing: Use a 1-1/4-inch bit to create hose and drain hose openings at the back of a cabinet. Mark from inside, then finish from the exterior for a cleaner exit.
Pergola wiring: Drill through beams with a 1-inch long spade bit or an extension to route low-voltage cable.

With the right bit, speed settings, and a few simple techniques, a speed bit delivers fast, reliable holes for framing and rough carpentry tasks across the house and yard.