A shank is the plain or shaped portion of a tool or fastener that connects the working end to what holds or drives it—such as a handle, drill chuck, or driver. It transmits force, keeps the tool aligned, and is sized or profiled (round, hex, SDS, smooth, ringed) to fit specific tools and tasks.
What is a shank?
In tools and hardware, the shank is the part that your tool or fastener is held by. On a drill bit, it’s the end that goes into the chuck. On a screw or nail, it’s the body that sits under the head. The shank’s shape and size determine how the tool is gripped, how power is transferred, and how well the part stays in place.
Where you’ll see it in DIY and home improvement
- Drill bits and drivers: The shank fits into a drill chuck or quick-change driver. It must match the chuck style and size.
- Screws and bolts: The shank is the unthreaded or partially unthreaded portion under the head; on shoulder bolts, it’s a precision-diameter section.
- Nails: The shank can be smooth, ringed, or spiral to affect holding strength.
- Chisels, knives, and some hand tools: The shank (or closely related tang) connects the working end to the handle.
- Rivets and anchors: The shank is the body that expands or holds in the hole.
Common shank types and variations
Drill and driver shanks
- Round/cylindrical shank: Smooth, used in standard 3-jaw chucks. Some have 3-flat or tri-flat ground sides to prevent slipping.
- Hex shank (1/4-inch): Fits quick-change chucks and impact drivers. Great for driver bits, small drill bits, and accessories. Impact-rated versions are hardened to withstand hammering.
- SDS shank (rotary hammers): Slotted Drive System styles include SDS-Plus (10 mm) and SDS-Max (18 mm). They allow bit movement for hammer action and require matching SDS chucks. Do not use in standard drill chucks.
- Spline shank: Older rotary hammer style with multiple splines. Tool-specific.
- Reduced shank (e.g., Silver & Deming): Large drill bits with a smaller shank (often 1/2-inch) so they fit in smaller chucks.
- 7/16-inch hex shank: Common on heavy auger or self-feed bits for right-angle drills.
Fastener shanks
- Screw shank: May be fully threaded or have a partially threaded design with a smooth shank section that helps pull two pieces together. The smooth portion acts like a clamp, allowing the head to draw the top piece tight to the bottom piece.
- Shoulder bolt (stripper bolt): Has a precisely sized, smooth shank under the head for pivoting parts or alignment.
- Nail shanks:
- Smooth shank: Easier to drive and remove; used for temporary work like concrete forms.
- Ring shank (annular): Grooved rings improve pull-out resistance; common for subflooring and siding.
- Spiral (twist) shank: Twisted profile helps grip dense wood and reduce splitting.
Other related shapes
- Tang: Similar idea on knives and chisels; the tang (a type of shank) extends into the handle to secure the blade.
- Arbor: A connector with its own shank used to hold saw blades or hole saws in a drill.
How the shank influences performance
- Grip and torque: A hex or SDS shank resists slipping better than a smooth round shank under high torque.
- Accuracy: A straight, undamaged shank runs truer in the chuck, improving hole quality and reducing wobble.
- Compatibility: Chuck style and size limit what shank you can use. A 3/8-inch drill can’t hold a 1/2-inch round shank, for example.
- Holding power (fasteners): Ring- and spiral-shank nails resist pull-out better than smooth shank nails, which matters for floors and roofing.
Choosing the right shank
- Match the tool:
- Standard drills with 3-jaw chucks take round, 3-flat, or hex shanks within the chuck size (commonly 3/8-inch or 1/2-inch).
- Impact drivers use 1/4-inch hex shanks; choose impact-rated bits for durability.
- Rotary hammers require SDS-Plus or SDS-Max bits that match the tool.
- Consider the job:
- For quick bit changes, choose 1/4-inch hex shanks.
- For heavy drilling in masonry, pick SDS-Plus or SDS-Max depending on hole size and tool.
- For wood assembly, use partially threaded wood screws so the unthreaded shank can pull parts together.
- For subflooring or siding, choose ring-shank nails for stronger hold.
- Mind diameter and length: Ensure the shank fits your chuck capacity and is long enough to clamp securely without gripping the bit’s flutes.
Tips for use and maintenance
- Seat the shank fully: Insert the shank deep in the chuck and tighten evenly. On quick-change hex chucks, push until it clicks.
- Clamp only on the shank: Do not tighten a chuck on the flutes of a drill bit; it damages the bit and reduces accuracy.
- Keep shanks clean: Wipe off pitch, dust, and oil. Lightly oil steel shanks to prevent rust; keep hex and SDS interfaces free of debris.
- Inspect for damage: Look for burrs, mushrooming, or bends. Discard bits with cracked or badly nicked shanks.
- Use the right driver: Impact drivers need impact-rated hex shanks. Rotary hammer bits need the correct SDS shank; don’t try to adapt with crude sleeves.
- Store properly: Protect shanks from dings. Use bit cases or sleeves so they stay straight and true.
Common mistakes to avoid
- Forcing the wrong size: Don’t jam an oversized shank into a small chuck or under-tighten a small shank in a large, worn chuck.
- Mixing systems: SDS-Plus bits do not fit SDS-Max tools, and vice versa. A standard drill chuck cannot drive SDS bits correctly.
- Using non-impact bits in an impact driver: Standard hex bits can snap; choose impact-rated.
- Clamping on flutes: Reduces grip and can cause the bit to slip or break.
- Assuming hole size equals shank size: A bit’s cutting diameter can be larger than its shank (reduced shank). Verify both before buying.
- Choosing the wrong nail shank: Smooth shank nails in subflooring can lead to squeaks; use ring shank for better hold.
- Using fully threaded screws where a clamp is needed: If you need two boards pulled tight, choose a partially threaded screw so the smooth shank section can do its job.
Related terms
- Chuck: The clamp on a drill that holds the shank.
- Flutes: The grooves on a drill bit that remove chips (do not clamp on these).
- Tang: The portion of a blade or chisel that extends into the handle.
- Shoulder: The step between a fastener’s shank and its threaded portion or head.
- Arbor: A shaft that holds a tool (like a hole saw) and has a shank for the drill.
Practical examples
- Drilling anchors in concrete: Use a rotary hammer with an SDS-Plus bit. The SDS shank allows the hammer action to work correctly and prevents slippage.
- Building a deck: Choose ring-shank nails for joist hangers and subfloor areas needing strong pull-out resistance, or use structural screws with appropriate shank design.
- Cabinet installation: Use partially threaded wood screws so the smooth shank near the head pulls the cabinet box tight to the wall studs.
- Quick pilot holes: Pop a 1/4-inch hex shank drill bit in your impact driver for fast, one-handed bit changes.
- Large hole in wood with a smaller drill: A 1-inch Silver & Deming twist bit with a 1/2-inch reduced shank lets you drill big holes using a 1/2-inch chuck.
- Mounting a pulley: A shoulder bolt’s smooth shank acts as a bearing surface so the pulley spins freely without chewing up threads.
Understanding shanks helps you match bits and fasteners to your tools, get better results, and avoid damaged equipment or weak joints. A quick check of shank type, size, and condition pays off in safer, cleaner work.