Kreg jig

What is a Kreg Jig?

A Kreg jig is a pocket-hole joinery tool made by Kreg Tool Company. It guides a special stepped drill bit at a precise angle (typically 15 degrees) to create a pocket hole in one board, then uses a matching screw to pull that board tightly against another. The result is a fast, strong joint with screws hidden on the backside or underside of the project. Because the jig controls alignment and drilling depth, beginners can achieve clean, repeatable joints without advanced woodworking skills.

How it works

A pocket-hole joint is made in two steps:

1. Drill the pocket hole: The jig positions hardened steel drill guides over your workpiece. You set the material thickness on the jig and the depth collar on the stepped drill bit. Clamp the jig firmly, then drill until the collar stops.
2. Drive the screw: Align and clamp the mating pieces. Use a square-drive bit to drive a pocket-hole screw through the pocket into the second piece. The screw’s large head and self-tapping tip pull the joint tight.

Because the screw approaches at an angle, the joint is very good at pulling parts into alignment. Glue is optional but often used for extra strength.

Common DIY uses

Pocket holes shine in many home projects:

• Face frames for cabinets and built-ins
• Bookcases and shelving (attaching shelves to sides, building stretchers)
• Tables and benches (aprons to legs, stretchers to aprons)
• Drawer boxes (especially with plywood, with pockets on the outside faces)
• Closet organizers, cubbies, and utility storage
• Quick furniture repairs and reinforcement

In many cases, pocket holes let you assemble parts without complex clamps or long cure times.

Types and variations of Kreg jigs

Kreg offers several jig styles to match project size and workspace:

• Pocket-Hole Jig 310/320: Compact, portable guides you clamp directly to the workpiece. Good for small jobs and tight spots.
• 520PRO: A handheld, clamp-on jig with a quick-adjust clamp and folding base. Great for on-site work and repeated setups.
• 720 and 720PRO: Bench-friendly jigs with auto-adjust clamping that sets to your material thickness. Faster for batch work and furniture building; the PRO kit adds support wings and accessories.
• Micro-Pocket Drill Guide: Uses a smaller bit to make shorter, smaller pockets—handy for 1/2-inch material and delicate work.
• Heavy-Duty/XL options: For thicker lumber (like 2x material). Check compatibility with your jig; some require specific guides and bits.

Common accessories include face clamps, right-angle clamps (to hold joints square while driving screws), bench clamps or bases, dust collection ports, and plug cutters.

Choosing screws and settings

Selecting the right screw and setup is key to a strong joint.

• Material thickness settings: Set both the jig and the drill bit collar for your stock thickness (common settings: 1/2 inch, 3/4 inch, 1-1/2 inches). On auto-adjust jigs, you still set the collar on the bit.
• Screw length (typical):
  • 1/2-inch stock → 1-inch screw
  • 3/4-inch stock → 1-1/4-inch screw
  • 1-inch stock → 1-1/2-inch screw
  • 1-1/2-inch stock → 2-1/2-inch screw
• Thread type:
  • Coarse-thread for softwoods, plywood, and MDF (grips better in softer fibers)
  • Fine-thread for hardwoods like oak, maple, and walnut (reduces splitting)
• Head style:
  • Maxi-Loc (washer head) for most joints; it has a broad bearing surface
  • Pan-head for thinner materials or tight pockets

Use Kreg’s chart or the guide on the jig as a quick reference, and test on a scrap when in doubt.

Tips for better results

• Clamp everything: Clamp the jig during drilling and clamp the pieces together during assembly to prevent shifting.
• Use the drill’s clutch: Drive screws with a lower clutch setting to avoid overdriving and stripping.
• Start slow, then drive: Begin driving at a slow speed until the screw bites, then continue steadily.
• Keep the bit sharp: A dull stepped bit leads to tear-out and heat. Replace or sharpen as needed.
• Manage chips and dust: Clear chips from the guide often or connect dust collection for cleaner holes and longer bit life.
• Placement and spacing: Keep pocket holes 2 inches from board ends and space them about 6–8 inches apart along a joint.
• Hide the pockets: Put pockets on the inside, underside, or back. Use matching wood plugs if any will be visible.
• Add glue for panels and frames: Screws pull the joint tight; glue adds long-term strength, especially across the grain.

Common mistakes to avoid

• Wrong screw length: Too short = weak joint; too long = blow-through. Match length to thickness.
• End-grain joints: Screws into end grain have poor holding power. Join into face or edge grain instead, or add blocking.
• Incorrect thread type: Fine threads in softwood or coarse in hardwood can cause poor hold or splitting.
• Mis-set thickness: Forgetting to set both the jig and the drill collar leads to shallow or overly deep pockets.
• Overdriving: High torque or an impact driver can strip the hole or compress the wood. Use a drill with a clutch.
• No clamping during assembly: Pieces can skate under the angled force and end up misaligned.
• Pockets too close to edges: Leads to splits or weak corners. Follow spacing guidance and test on scrap.

Related terms

• Pocket-hole joinery: The technique of joining wood with angled screws.
• Stepped drill bit: A bit with a pilot tip and a larger body that forms the pocket and pilot in one pass.
• Pocket-hole screws: Self-tapping, square-drive screws with heads shaped for pockets.
• Plugs: Pre-cut or custom-made pieces that fill pocket holes for a finished look.
• Face frame: A narrow frame attached to the front of a cabinet box; commonly built with pocket holes.
• Alternatives: Dowels, biscuits, loose tenons, and mortise-and-tenon joinery can also join parts, sometimes with more strength but more setup.

Practical examples

• Cabinet face frame: Cut rails and stiles to size from 1-1/2-inch-wide stock. Drill pocket holes on the back of the rails, clamp joints square, and drive 1-1/4-inch fine-thread screws for hardwood or coarse for softwood. Attach the finished frame to your cabinet box with pocket holes on the interior faces.

• Bookshelf build: Use 3/4-inch plywood for sides and shelves. Drill pockets on the underside of each shelf near the ends and mid-span. Clamp shelves flush with the sides and drive 1-1/4-inch coarse-thread screws. Add edge banding to hide plywood edges and any visible pockets.

• Table apron to legs: Drill pockets on the inside faces of apron boards. Clamp each apron to a leg and drive 1-1/4-inch or 1-1/2-inch screws based on thickness. A right-angle clamp helps keep the leg-to-apron joint square while you drive the second screw.

• Quick repair: Tighten a wobbly chair stretcher by adding a concealed pocket-hole screw from the underside into solid wood, avoiding end grain when possible. A micro-pocket guide can help in tight spaces.

With a straightforward setup and a small set of accessories, a Kreg jig can dramatically speed up furniture and cabinet projects while keeping joints neat and hidden. Practice on scrap to dial in your settings, and you’ll be building clean, sturdy assemblies in no time.