Drywall Saw

What is a drywall saw?

A drywall saw is a small hand saw designed to cut gypsum board (drywall). It has a narrow, pointed blade with aggressive teeth that can puncture the drywall face and then saw through the panel. The pointed tip lets you start a cut in the middle of a sheet without drilling a pilot hole, which is handy for outlets, switches, and vent openings.

How it works and key features

The tool’s sharp tip “jabs” through the paper face and gypsum core. Once inside, the teeth remove material on both the push and pull strokes. Key features include:

Pointed tip for plunge starts
Coarse, hardened teeth for fast cutting through gypsum
Narrow blade for tight curves and small openings
Comfortable handle for good control (fixed or folding)
Optional sheath or folding body for pocket carry and blade protection

Common uses in DIY and home projects

Cutting openings for electrical boxes, light switches, and receptacles
Trimming drywall around HVAC vents and return grilles
Shaping access holes for plumbing valves and cleanouts
Squaring or enlarging precut openings that don’t quite fit
Removing damaged sections before patching
Cutting curves or irregular shapes that are awkward with a utility knife

A drywall saw shines in spot work—quick, controlled cuts where power tools might be overkill or crowded for space.

Types and variations

Jab saw (keyhole saw): The common hand version with a fixed pointed blade. Often called a keyhole or jab saw; these names are used interchangeably for drywall work.
Folding drywall saw: Blade folds into the handle like a pocket knife. Safer to carry, easier to store, and less likely to damage other tools in your pouch.
Double-ground or triple-ground teeth: Tooth patterns that cut on both strokes and reduce binding for cleaner, faster cuts.
Fine vs. coarse tooth count: Coarser teeth cut faster but can tear the paper more. Slightly finer teeth leave a cleaner edge but require more strokes.

Power alternatives (not the same tool, but often compared):
- Rotary cutout tool: Spins a bit to zip around templates; very fast for outlet cutouts.
- Oscillating multi-tool: Precise and clean, good near studs and for plunge cuts with less dust.
- Reciprocating saw: Works for demolition or larger holes, but harder to control for neat openings.

How to choose the right drywall saw

Blade length: 5–6 inches covers most wall and ceiling thicknesses while still maneuverable.
Tooth design: Look for double- or triple-ground teeth to reduce effort and snagging.
Handle comfort: A rubberized, ergonomic grip reduces hand fatigue and improves control.
Folding vs. fixed: Folding is safer for pockets and tool bags; fixed blades are slightly more rigid.
Blade hardness: Induction-hardened teeth stay sharp longer. Many are not meant to be sharpened; plan on replacement when dull.
Tip shape: A finely ground, sharp tip pierces the paper cleanly and starts cuts with less force.

How to use a drywall saw (step-by-step)

Plan and mark: Measure carefully and outline the cut with a pencil. For boxes, use a template or the device’s mud ring to trace.
Check for hazards: Use a stud finder with AC detection. If possible, shut off power to nearby circuits. Probe gently through a small test puncture and look with a flashlight before committing.
Score the face paper (optional but helpful): Lightly score along the outline with a utility knife. This reduces paper tear-out and leaves a cleaner edge.
Start the cut: Hold the saw at a shallow angle (about 30–45 degrees) and press the tip into the drywall with controlled pressure. Avoid a hard stab that could damage hidden wires or pipes.
Saw with steady strokes: Keep the blade just inside your line. Use smooth, short strokes; let the teeth do the work. For corners, stop precisely at the line to avoid overcutting.
Support the piece: If removing a larger section, support it with your free hand to reduce breakage and dust.
Clean the edges: After cutting, use a drywall rasp or utility knife to shave high spots and square corners.
Test fit: Dry-fit the cover, box, or vent. Adjust as needed with small additional cuts rather than one big trim.

Safety and care

PPE: Wear safety glasses and a dust mask. Gloves help protect your knuckles and reduce vibration.
Mind what’s behind: Wires, plumbing, and low-voltage cables are common. Cut shallow at first, then deepen once you know it’s clear.
Control the plunge: Use steady pressure; don’t swing the saw like a spear.
Dust control: Lay down a drop cloth, and vacuum as you go. A helper can hold a hose below the cut.
Maintenance: Brush off gypsum dust after use. Wipe the blade dry and add a light oil film to prevent rust. Store folded or in a sheath.
Sharpening: Many drywall saws have hardened teeth that don’t sharpen well. If the saw feels slow or snags frequently, replace it. Some non-hardened blades can be touched up with a small file.

Mistakes to avoid

Overcutting corners: Cuts that extend past the layout line leave visible gaps around plates and covers. Stop at the corners and finish each side cleanly.
Forcing a dull blade: Excess force tears paper and wanders off line. Replace a dull saw.
Skipping the hazard check: Puncturing a wire or pipe turns a quick job into a costly repair. Scan and probe before plunging.
Cutting from the wrong side: If finish appearance matters, cut from the face side you’ll see after installation and score first to reduce ragged edges.
Making the hole too big: Start slightly undersized and sneak up on the fit. Drywall patching takes longer than careful trimming.

Related terms

Jab saw / keyhole saw: Common names for the hand drywall saw.
Utility knife: Often used to score paper and break straight cuts, or to clean edges after sawing.
Drywall rasp: A handheld tool to smooth and square cut edges.
Rotary cutout tool: Power tool for fast outlet and vent openings using a spiral bit.
Oscillating multi-tool: Power tool with a flat blade for accurate plunge cuts with less dust.
Hole saw: Circular power saw attachment for round openings like recessed lights.
Stud finder: Locates studs and often detects live electrical wires.

Real-world examples

Adding a new outlet: Trace the box outline, scan the area, plunge with the drywall saw, and cut to the lines. Clean the edges with a rasp, then install the box and plate.
Installing a bathroom fan: Measure from reference points, transfer the layout to the ceiling, make a pilot puncture to check for obstructions, then cut the rectangular opening. Support the cutout to prevent damage to surrounding paper.
Patching a damaged wall: Use the saw to square a rough hole into a neat rectangle. Cut a matching patch from new drywall, rasp edges for a snug fit, then tape and mud.

A drywall saw is a small, confidence-boosting tool for anyone tackling wall or ceiling projects. With careful layout, a quick scan for hidden services, and steady strokes, you’ll get clean openings that make the finishing steps go faster and look better.