Bevel

What is a bevel?

A bevel is a sloped edge or cut made at any angle other than 90 degrees. Instead of a square corner, a bevel gradually transitions from one face to another. You’ll see bevels on wood, metal, tile, glass, and even stone. They’re used to soften sharp edges for safety, improve how parts fit together, shed water from exposed edges, and add a clean, finished look to projects.

Common uses in DIY and home improvement

• Trim and molding: Beveled profiles on baseboards, casing, and crown add shadow lines and visual interest.
• Flooring: Many hardwood and laminate planks have a micro-bevel on the edges to hide slight height differences and reduce chipping.
• Doors: A slight bevel on the latch side helps the door close smoothly without binding.
• Countertops and shelves: Beveled front edges feel smoother to the touch and are less prone to chipping.
• Decking and exterior trim: A small bevel or chamfer encourages water to run off instead of soaking in.
• Tile and stone: Beveled tiles create crisp transitions and reduce sharpness on exposed edges.
• Glass and mirrors: A factory bevel produces a decorative, light-catching border.

Types and related variations

• Beveled edge: Any edge cut at a sloped angle. The angle can be shallow (e.g., 10°) or steep (e.g., 60°), depending on the look and function.
• Micro-bevel: A tiny bevel, often 1–2 mm wide, commonly found on flooring and tool edges.
• Bevel cut vs. miter cut:
  • Bevel cut changes the angle across the material’s thickness (the blade tilts).
  • Miter cut changes the angle across the material’s width on the face (the blade swings left/right or the workpiece is angled). Many saws can do both at once (a compound cut).
• Bevel vs. chamfer:
  • Chamfer usually means a straight, 45° bevel used to break a sharp edge.
  • Bevel is the broader term for any non-90° sloped edge.
• Single- vs. dual-bevel tools:
  • Single-bevel miter saw tilts in one direction.
  • Dual-bevel (double-bevel) miter saw tilts left and right, making repetitive opposite bevels faster.
• Beveled tools and edges:
  • Chisels, plane irons, and knives have bevels that form cutting edges. A secondary bevel or micro-bevel can increase durability and ease sharpening.
• Bevel gauges:
  • A sliding T-bevel (also called a bevel gauge) is a hand tool with a movable blade that locks at any angle to copy or set bevels.

How to make a bevel (common methods)

• Table saw: Tilt the blade to the desired angle and run the workpiece along the fence or a sled. Use featherboards or hold-downs for consistent pressure.
• Circular saw: Tilt the shoe to the angle mark. Support the work well, clamp it, and use a straightedge guide for accuracy.
• Miter saw: Set the bevel tilt (and miter angle if needed). Great for trim, door casings, and picture frames.
• Router: Use a chamfer or dedicated bevel bit with a bearing. Ideal for clean, repeatable edge profiles on wood or laminate.
• Hand plane or block plane: Useful for breaking edges or creating longer, subtle bevels. Check progress frequently with a small square or bevel gauge.
• Files and sanding blocks: Good for metal, PVC, and small adjustments. A sanding block helps keep the bevel uniform.
• Angle grinder: With the right disc, it can bevel metal or stone. Control heat and use light passes.

Tips for selection, use, and maintenance

• Measuring and layout:
  • Use a sliding T-bevel to copy an angle from one piece to another without measuring degrees.
  • Mark both faces and the end grain so you can see your layout lines while cutting.
  • For repeatability, use an angle finder or digital bevel gauge to set saw blade tilt precisely.
• Saw setup:
  • Verify the saw’s 0° and 45° stops with a reliable square; factory detents can be slightly off.
  • Make a test cut on scrap and check with a protractor or transfer back to your T-bevel.
• Clean cuts:
  • Support the offcut to prevent the last inch from splintering.
  • Use painter’s tape on the cut line for plywood and laminates, or score with a knife before sawing.
  • For hardwoods, use a sharp, fine-tooth blade or a high-quality router bit to reduce tear-out.
• Safety:
  • Beveled cuts reduce bearing surface against fences; use push sticks, hold-downs, and keep hands clear.
  • Be mindful of kickback—never trap a beveled workpiece between the fence and the blade on a table saw without proper setup.
• Maintaining beveled edges:
  • Break sharp arrises lightly with sandpaper to prevent chipping.
  • Reseal exterior bevels with finish or paint; exposed end grain absorbs moisture.
  • For cutting tools, hone the primary bevel and add a micro-bevel for quicker touch-ups.

Common mistakes to avoid

• Confusing bevel and miter settings and adjusting the wrong control on the saw.
• Forgetting that stock width changes the look of a bevel; a 30° bevel on 3/4-inch stock appears different than on 1-1/2-inch stock.
• Skipping test cuts and ending up with gaps in joints.
• Cutting with the wrong face up, causing tear-out on the show surface.
• Not supporting long, narrow pieces during bevel cuts, leading to wandering cuts or kickback.
• Ignoring wood grain direction; planing or routing against the grain can chip the edge.

Related terms

• Miter
• Chamfer
• Compound cut
• Sliding T-bevel (bevel gauge)
• Micro-bevel
• Arris (the sharp edge of a corner)
• Scarf joint (often uses long bevels to join boards end-to-end)
• Countersink (creates a conical bevel for screw heads)

Practical examples

• Picture frames: Use a compound miter saw to cut both miter and bevel for profiles that need angled faces, producing tight, shadow-free corners.
• Door hanging: Plane a 2–3° bevel on the latch edge so the door swings shut without rubbing the jamb.
• Deck trim: Add a small 45° chamfer to fascia and stair treads to shed water and reduce splintering.
• Tile edge finishing: Use factory-beveled tiles at outside corners, or bevel porcelain with a diamond pad and ease the edge with a polishing wheel.
• Shelves and countertops: Route a light bevel on front edges for comfort and to minimize chipping.
• Tool care: Add a micro-bevel to a chisel’s cutting edge for faster touch-ups and longer-lasting sharpness.

A bevel might be decorative, functional, or both. Once you understand the difference between a bevel and a miter, and how to set angles with a sliding T-bevel or angle gauge, you can make cleaner joints, safer edges, and more professional-looking finishes across a wide range of projects.