Short answer
For small patches (under 10 sq ft) on painted interior walls, the safest, easiest method is: protect yourself (gloves, goggles, N95), fix the moisture source, then clean the wall with warm water and a few drops of dish soap. For stubborn staining, apply 3% hydrogen peroxide or white vinegar, let it sit 10 minutes, wipe, and dry thoroughly. If a shadow remains, seal it with a stain-blocking primer and repaint. If the wall is soft, crumbling, or the affected area is large, replace the drywall or call a pro.
Use a pro if the affected area > 10 sq ft (≈ 3 ft x 3 ft)
Why this works
Most “black mold” spots on painted drywall are surface growth from excess moisture and poor ventilation. Soap-and-water removes the biofilm; peroxide or vinegar kills remaining spores and helps with staining without harsh fumes. Bleach can discolor paint and is best reserved for non-porous surfaces (tile, glass). The key to preventing regrowth is removing moisture and drying the wall completely, then sealing stains before repainting.
What you’ll need
- PPE: N95 respirator, nitrile gloves, safety glasses
- Cleaning: bucket, warm water, mild dish soap, microfiber cloths, soft scrub brush or non-scratch sponge
- Disinfecting options (pick one): 3% hydrogen peroxide in a spray bottle, or white distilled vinegar (full-strength) in a spray bottle
- Optional: EPA-registered mold remover for interiors (check label for painted drywall)
- Containment/drying: plastic sheeting and painter’s tape, box fan, dehumidifier
- Optional tools: HEPA shop vacuum with brush attachment, moisture meter (~$20–$40), step ladder
- Painting (if needed): stain-blocking primer (shellac- or oil-based), quality interior paint with mildewcide additive
Approximate costs: basic supplies $20–$50; primer/paint $30–$70; dehumidifier rental $25–$40/day. Time: 30–90 minutes to clean a small wall area, plus 12–24 hours dry time; repaint adds a day.
Step-by-step: small areas on painted drywall
- Assess size and cause
- If the spot is larger than 10 sq ft, recurring, or you smell a strong musty odor, plan for professional help.
- Identify and fix the moisture source: roof/siding leaks, condensation, bathroom humidity, or high indoor RH (>50%). Run exhaust fans and/or a dehumidifier.
- Protect and prepare
- Wear N95, gloves, and eye protection. Keep kids/pets out. Turn off or cover nearby HVAC supply/return grilles.
- Lay plastic sheeting under the work area. Ventilate by placing a box fan in a window blowing out.
- Optional pre-vacuum
- Gently HEPA vacuum the surface to remove loose spores. Avoid standard vacuums that lack HEPA filtration.
- Clean with soap and water
- Mix warm water with a few drops of dish soap. Lightly dampen a microfiber cloth or sponge and wipe the area. Don’t saturate drywall—work in small sections and wring out the cloth well.
- Rinse with a clean damp cloth.
- Treat stubborn spots
- Test in an inconspicuous area first.
- Spray 3% hydrogen peroxide or white vinegar on the spots. Allow a 10-minute dwell time, then wipe with a clean cloth. Avoid mixing chemicals. Never mix bleach with anything but water.
- For non-porous trim or tile only: you can use a diluted bleach solution (1/2 cup household bleach per gallon of water). Ventilate well, apply with a cloth, allow up to 10 minutes, then rinse and dry. Bleach may discolor paint—use cautiously.
- Dry thoroughly
- Run a fan and dehumidifier until the wall is fully dry. Aim for indoor RH 30–50%. Drying is crucial to prevent regrowth.
- Prime and paint if staining remains
- Once dry, spot-prime with a stain-blocking primer (shellac-based like BIN or oil-based like Cover Stain). After it flashes off, repaint with a quality interior paint; consider a mildewcide additive for bathrooms or basements.
Special cases
- If drywall is soft, crumbling, or the paper surface is peeling, cleaning won’t restore it. Cut out the affected section back to clean studs and patch with new drywall. Use a shop vacuum with HEPA while cutting. If the home is pre-1978, consider lead-safe work practices and testing before sanding or demolition.
- On glossy or semi-gloss paint, stains usually clean off more easily. On flat paint, scrub gently to avoid burnishing; you may prefer to prime and repaint after light cleaning.
Safety tips and best practices
- Use PPE and ventilate. Peroxide and vinegar are low-fume compared to bleach but still protect your eyes and lungs.
- Avoid over-wetting drywall. Blot rather than soak. Work top to bottom.
- Dispose of used cloths and debris in a sealed trash bag.
- Keep chemicals simple and separate. Never mix bleach with vinegar or ammonia.
- Control humidity long-term: vent bathrooms, fix leaks promptly, insulate cold surfaces to reduce condensation, maintain RH at 30–50%.
Common mistakes to avoid
- Painting over mold without cleaning and drying—stains and growth will telegraph through.
- Using straight bleach on painted drywall—can cause discoloration and doesn’t resolve moisture.
- Scrubbing too aggressively on flat paint—leads to shiny spots and damage.
- Using a regular vacuum that lacks HEPA—can spread spores.
- Skipping the moisture fix—mold will return even after thorough cleaning.
When to call a professional
- The affected area exceeds 10 sq ft, or growth is widespread or recurring.
- You suspect water intrusion inside the wall (musty odor, baseboard swelling, high moisture meter readings).
- HVAC or insulation may be contaminated, or mold is on porous materials like insulation.
- Household members are immunocompromised, have severe allergies/asthma, or you’re uncomfortable doing the work.
With the right PPE, gentle cleaners, and good drying, most small wall stains can be safely removed in an afternoon. Finish with a stain-blocking primer and improved ventilation to keep the wall looking clean.