Short answer
You likely need a 200A service if your current panel is maxed out, you’re adding high-demand electric loads (EV charger, heat pump, electric range, hot tub, addition), or a proper load calculation shows your demand exceeds what a 60A–150A service can reliably supply. A 200A upgrade is also common for older homes with 60A or 100A service transitioning to modern, more electric living.
What determines the need for 200A
- Existing service rating: Look at your main breaker label. Common sizes are 60A (old), 100A, 125A, 150A, and 200A. If you’re at 60A or 100A and planning electrification (EV, heat pump, induction range), 200A is a frequent target.
- Home size and lifestyle: Larger homes and all-electric homes draw more. Gas appliances reduce electrical demand; going all-electric increases it.
- Major fixed loads: Electric range/oven, clothes dryer, electric water heater, heat pump or central AC, hot tub/sauna, pool equipment, shop tools, and EV charging (especially 40–60A circuits).
- Panel space and configuration: A panel packed with tandem breakers or no spare spaces hints at capacity issues. Upgrading panel space alone doesn’t increase service amperage unless the service conductors, meter base, and main breaker are upgraded.
- Nuisance tripping or dimming: Frequent main breaker trips or lights dimming when large appliances start can indicate service stress. (Branch circuit trips often mean a circuit issue, not service size.)
- Planned projects: Additions, kitchen remodels, finishing a basement, or installing an EV charger often tip the scales toward 200A.
Quick DIY load check (approximate)
A formal NEC Article 220 load calculation is best, but this ballpark method helps:
1) List general and small-appliance loads
- General lighting load: 3 VA per square foot of finished space
- Add 1500 VA for each small-appliance circuit (usually 2 in kitchens)
- Add 1500 VA for the laundry circuit
- Apply 100% of first 3000 VA, 35% of the remainder
2) Add fixed appliances at nameplate VA
- Dryer: 5000 W minimum
- Range/oven: use nameplate (often 8k–14k W)
- Water heater, dishwasher, disposal, microwave, well pump, etc.
- If you have 4 or more fixed appliances, you can often apply 75% demand to that group (local code rules vary)
3) Heating or cooling (non-coincident)
- Add the larger of heat or AC (not both at once)
4) EV charger
- Add the charger’s kW (e.g., 7.7 kW for a 32A charger on 240V). Consider it a continuous load for circuit sizing; include it in total VA here.
5) Convert to amps
- Total VA divided by 240 V ≈ service amps
Example:
```
Home: 2000 sq ft
General load: 2000 × 3 = 6000 VA
Small appliance + laundry: 3 × 1500 = 4500 VA
Subtotal (general): 10,500 VA → first 3000 at 100% = 3000
Remainder 7500 at 35% = 2625
General after demand = 5625 VA
Fixed appliances (nameplate approximations):
Electric range 12,000 VA
Dryer 5000 VA
Water heater 4500 VA
Dishwasher 1200 VA
Microwave 1200 VA
Subtotal fixed = 23,900 VA → if 4+ appliances, 75% ≈ 17,925 VA
HVAC (choose larger): Heat pump 4000 VA (assume larger than AC)
EV charger 7700 VA
Total VA ≈ 5625 + 17,925 + 4000 + 7700 = 35,250 VA
Service current ≈ 35,250 ÷ 240 ≈ 147 A
```
In this example, 150A might squeak by today, but any future loads (hot tub, second EV, larger heat pump) argue for 200A.
Panel capacity vs. service size
- Panel upgrade only: If you just need more breaker spaces, a subpanel can suffice without increasing service amperage.
- Service upgrade: To increase to 200A, you need a 200A-rated meter base, service entrance conductors, main breaker/panel bus, grounding electrode system upgrades, and utility coordination for the service drop/lateral.
Step-by-step path to a 200A upgrade
1) Assess your loads using the quick check above or an online NEC calculator.
2) Inspect your panel for main breaker rating, bus rating, and available spaces. Photograph labels.
3) Call your utility to confirm they can supply 200A to your address and ask about any fees or lead times.
4) Get bids from licensed electricians (3 is ideal). Request:
- 200A meter base and panel (or meter-main combo)
- Grounding/bonding upgrades
- Whole-home surge protector
- Conduit or raceway provisions for future EV/solar
5) Permits and schedule: Your electrician will pull permits and coordinate the utility disconnect/reconnect. Power is typically off for 4–10 hours on installation day.
Tools and materials (for assessment; the electrician brings the pro gear)
- Flashlight and smartphone camera for panel labels
- Notepad or load calculator app
- Non-contact voltage tester (for basic safety awareness only)
- PPE: safety glasses, insulated gloves
- Optional for advanced DIYers: clamp meter for current snapshot, torque screwdriver for panel terminations (pros only should torque service equipment)
Safety
- Do not remove the meter or touch service conductors. They are live even with the main breaker off.
- If you remove a panel dead front to read labels, shut off the main, keep hands clear of the service lugs, and wear PPE. If you’re unsure, stop and call a pro.
- Many jurisdictions restrict homeowners from service equipment work. Permits and inspections are required.
Cost and timing
- Panel change to 200A with existing 200A service: roughly $1,800–$3,500
- Full service upgrade to 200A (meter base, conductors, panel, grounding): about $3,500–$8,000+
- Trenching for underground laterals: add $1,500–$5,000 depending on distance/soil
- Utility charges: vary by region; overhead upgrades may be low-cost, underground can be higher
- Timeline: 2–6 weeks for permits/utility coordination; 1 day onsite work
Tips for best results
- Choose a panel with a 200A or 225A bus and ample spaces (40+). Future-proof now.
- Add a whole-home surge protector and spare conduit from panel to garage/driveway for future EVSE.
- If long feeder runs are planned, consider upsizing conductors to reduce voltage drop.
- Aluminum service conductors are common and safe when installed and torqued correctly; copper is pricier and bulkier.
Common mistakes
- Upgrading the panel but not the meter base or service conductors to 200A ratings.
- Ignoring grounding: new ground rods, water bond, and bonding jumpers may be required.
- Assuming 200A is always enough: large all-electric homes with multiple EVs may need 320A/400A.
- Overreliance on tandem breakers instead of addressing service capacity.
When to call a professional
- If your current service is 60A or 100A and you’re planning electrification.
- If the main breaker trips or you see signs of overheating/corrosion in the panel.
- For any work involving the meter, service mast, or utility conductors. This is not a DIY project.
A thoughtful load calculation plus a look at your future plans is the best way to decide. If you’re on the fence, quotes from licensed electricians will clarify costs and options like subpanels, load management devices, or a full 200A upgrade.