Quick answer
A breaker that trips a lot usually points to one of four issues: an overloaded circuit, a short circuit, a ground fault, or a faulty breaker. Start by unplugging or turning off devices on that circuit, then reset the breaker. If it holds, add loads back one by one to find the culprit. If it trips instantly with everything unplugged, you likely have a wiring fault or a bad breaker and should stop and call a licensed electrician.
What’s going on and why breakers trip
Breakers protect wires from overheating. They trip when current exceeds their rating or when they detect faults.
- Overload: too many watts on one circuit. Trips after a few seconds to minutes.
- Short circuit: hot-to-neutral or hot-to-hot contact. Usually trips instantly with a loud click.
- Ground fault: hot-to-ground path; GFCI or dual-function breakers trip quickly, often with certain appliances.
- Nuisance/AFCI trip: arcing signature detected by AFCI; can be caused by damaged cords, backstabbed outlets, or shared neutrals wired incorrectly.
- Bad breaker: aged, damaged, or a poor connection to the bus.
Amps = Watts ÷ Volts
Example: 1500 W space heater on 120 V = 12.5 A
Typical breaker/wire pairing (copper):
15 A → 14 AWG
20 A → 12 AWG
30 A → 10 AWG
Never upsize a breaker beyond its wire’s rating.
Step-by-step troubleshooting
1) Identify the circuit and breaker type
- Label the breaker if it isn’t. Note its rating (15A, 20A) and type (standard, GFCI, AFCI, dual-function).
- Find what the circuit serves: rooms, outlets, lights, appliances.
2) Reset safely
- Turn the breaker fully OFF, then firmly to ON.
- If it won’t reset or trips immediately with everything off, stop here and call a pro.
3) Isolate loads
- Unplug all devices on that circuit and switch off hardwired loads (fans, disposals) if possible.
- Reset the breaker. If it now holds, plug devices back in one at a time until it trips. The last item is suspect.
- Common offenders: space heaters, hair dryers, vacuums, microwaves, toasters, dehumidifiers, older fridges.
4) Check for overload
- Add up typical wattage on the circuit using device labels.
- For a 15A/120V circuit, keep steady load under about 12A (80% rule); for 20A, under about 16A.
- Move high-watt devices to different circuits or schedule their use so they’re not on simultaneously.
5) Inspect outlets and switches
- Turn the breaker OFF. Verify power is off with a non-contact voltage tester.
- Remove cover plates and look for scorch marks, loose backstab connections, nicked insulation, or wirenuts barely holding.
- If you find backstabbed wires, move them to the side screws or add pigtails and use side screws. Replace damaged devices.
6) Test GFCI/AFCI
- If a GFCI trips, press Reset. If it trips again with nothing connected, there may be a wiring or moisture issue.
- If an AFCI trips, inspect cords and plugs for damage, and replace any outlets with arcing signs. Older treadmills/vacuums can create electrical noise—try a different circuit.
- For garages, exteriors, kitchens, and baths, confirm GFCI protection is present and working.
7) Panel check (only if comfortable)
- Turn OFF the main breaker. Be aware: service lugs remain live. If you’re not fully comfortable, hire a pro.
- Remove panel cover. Check the tripping breaker for heat discoloration, cracks, or a loose handle.
- Gently tug the circuit wire at the breaker; if loose, retorque per panel labeling with an insulated torque screwdriver. Do not overtighten.
- Inspect the bus stab for pitting or burning. If damaged, call an electrician.
- If suspected faulty, replace the breaker with the exact matching brand and type for your panel (e.g., Eaton BR for Eaton BR panels, Square D QO for QO panels). Never mix brands.
Example breaker lug torque: 20–25 in‑lb (check your panel’s label)
Tools and materials
- Non-contact voltage tester and/or plug-in outlet tester
- Flashlight, labels or painter’s tape and marker
- Insulated screwdriver set; torque screwdriver preferred
- Multimeter or clamp meter (optional, for advanced users)
- Replacement receptacles/switches, wirenuts, 14 AWG or 12 AWG copper pigtails
- Replacement breaker (exact match), if needed
Safety
- Turn off the breaker (or main) before opening boxes or the panel. Verify with a tester.
- Panel service lugs stay live even with the main off—do not touch.
- Wear safety glasses; keep one hand away from metal while probing; avoid working alone.
- If you see melted insulation, a burning smell, or water intrusion, stop and call a pro.
Tips for best results
- Label every circuit as you go; it makes future troubleshooting faster.
- Distribute portable heaters and hair dryers onto separate circuits.
- Replace worn or damaged cords and avoid daisy-chaining power strips.
- Older homes often have multiple rooms on one 15A circuit—consider adding a dedicated circuit for the microwave, fridge, or workshop tools.
Common mistakes
- Upsizing a breaker to stop trips. This risks a fire if the wire can’t handle the higher current.
- Mixing breaker brands in a panel.
- Leaving backstabbed outlet connections. Side-screw with proper pigtails is more reliable.
- Double-lugging neutrals under one terminal in the panel (not allowed on many panels).
- Ignoring shared-neutral (MWBC) rules: these circuits need a 2-pole common-trip or handle-tied breakers.
Time and cost
- Diagnosis: 30–90 minutes.
- Outlet replacement: $5–8 each; GFCI $15–25; AFCI or dual-function breaker $40–120.
- Standard breakers: $10–40; brand-specific costs vary.
- Electrician: typically $150–300 for simple diagnosis/repair, $300–800+ if rewiring or adding a circuit.
When to call a professional
- Breaker trips instantly with all loads disconnected.
- Evidence of heat, arcing, moisture, or a damaged panel/bus.
- Aluminum branch wiring, Federal Pacific or Zinsco panels, or repeated AFCI trips you can’t isolate.
- You’re uncomfortable working inside the panel or lack the right tools.
Fixing frequent trips is often about balancing loads and tightening up weak links like worn outlets or loose connections. If the problem persists after isolating devices and checking connections, bringing in a licensed electrician is the safest path—and can prevent hidden hazards from escalating.