Short answer
Build a basic homeowner toolkit and learn a handful of core tasks. Start with: a 16‑oz claw hammer, multi-bit screwdriver set, 12" adjustable wrench, pliers (slip-joint and tongue‑and‑groove), tape measure, torpedo level, utility knife, stud finder, cordless drill/driver with bits, assorted screws/anchors, painter’s tools (spackle knife, sanding block), caulk gun with silicone/latex caulk, cup plunger, wet/dry vacuum, non-contact voltage tester, GFCI outlet tester, and safety gear (glasses, gloves, hearing protection, N95 masks). Skills to learn first: shut off water/gas/electric, use a drill and wall anchors, find studs and hang items, patch small drywall holes, clear a trap and minor clogs, apply caulk, reset breakers and test outlets, and change HVAC filters.
Why these tools and skills
These handle 80–90% of common tasks: hanging shelves/TVs, stopping small leaks, fixing sticky doors, basic electrical checks, paint touch-ups, and weather sealing. Expect to spend $200–$400 to assemble a reliable starter kit; add $100–$200 for a decent 18V drill/driver and batteries. Most tasks take 15–60 minutes once you’ve done them once.
Core toolkit checklist
- Hand tools: 16‑oz claw hammer; multi-bit screwdriver set (Phillips #1/#2, slotted 1/4" and 3/16"); 6"–8" long-nose and slip-joint pliers; 10" tongue‑and‑groove pliers; 12" adjustable wrench; hex/Allen key set.
- Measuring/marking: 25 ft tape measure; torpedo level (9"); stud finder with AC scan; pencil.
- Cutting/fastening: Utility knife with spare blades; 18V drill/driver; drill bit set (1/16"–1/2"); driver bits; wood screws (#8 x 1‑1/4", #10 x 2").
- Wall & paint: Spackle/joint compound; 2" putty knife; sanding block (120/220 grit); touch-up brush; painter’s tape.
- Anchoring: Plastic expansion anchors; self-drilling drywall anchors; 3/16" toggles for heavy loads; masonry bits and anchors if you have brick/block.
- Plumbing: Cup plunger (sink) and flange plunger (toilet); PTFE thread seal tape (for threaded connections only); bucket; rags.
- Sealants: Latex/acrylic caulk (interior trim); 100% silicone (bath/kitchen); quality caulk gun.
- Electrical & safety: Non-contact voltage tester; GFCI tester; flashlight/headlamp; safety glasses; cut‑resistant gloves; hearing protection; N95 masks; 6 ft step ladder.
Quick technical references
Stud spacing (most walls): 16" on center; sometimes 24".
Drywall anchors (approx.):
- Plastic expansion: 10–25 lb (shear)
- Self-drilling metal: 25–50 lb
- 3/16" toggle bolt: 70–100+ lb (shear)
Pilot holes for wood screws:
- #8 screw: 3/32" (softwood), 7/64" (hardwood)
GFCI: Test monthly; replace if won’t reset.
HVAC filters: Replace 1–3 months (check size on frame).
Skills to learn first (with steps)
1) Shut off utilities and stop small leaks
Tools: flashlight, adjustable wrench, towels/bucket.
- Water: Find the main shutoff (often near the water meter or where the line enters). Turn clockwise to close. Sink/toilet shutoffs are under fixtures.
- Gas: Locate the meter valve; a quarter-turn so the handle is perpendicular to the pipe. Only if you smell gas, evacuate and call the utility.
- Electricity: Learn your breaker panel. Label circuits. To reset, switch fully OFF then ON.
Safety: If you smell gas or see sparking/burning, leave the home and call the utility/fire department.
2) Hang a shelf or heavy mirror safely
Tools: stud finder, tape, level, drill/driver, screws/anchors, pencil.
- Scan to find studs; mark two studs if possible.
- If you can’t hit studs, choose anchors rated for the load and consider two anchors per bracket.
- Pre-drill pilot holes; mount brackets; check level; secure fasteners.
Tips: For TVs or anything over 50 lb, hit studs or use a mounting system rated above the real load. Avoid plumbing by scanning and staying 6–8" away from sink/shower supply lines.
Common mistake: Using plastic anchors for heavy/cantilevered loads—use toggles or find studs.
3) Patch small drywall holes
Tools: spackle, 2" putty knife, sanding block, primer/paint.
- Clean edges; fill hole; scrape smooth.
- Let dry; sand flush; spot prime; paint.
Time: 30–60 minutes plus dry time.
Tip: For holes larger than a nickel, use a self-adhesive patch or a small repair panel.
4) Clear a slow drain and clean a P‑trap
Tools: cup plunger, bucket, tongue‑and‑groove pliers, rag.
- Plunge 10–15 firm strokes with overflow blocked.
- If still slow, place bucket under trap; loosen slip nuts; remove trap; clean; reassemble hand‑tight plus a quarter-turn.
Safety: Do not use chemical drain openers; they can damage pipes and burn skin.
Common mistake: Over‑tightening slip nuts; they seal with compression, not force.
5) Apply neat, long‑lasting caulk (bath/trim)
Tools: caulk gun, silicone (wet areas) or latex (trim), painter’s tape, utility knife, rag.
- Clean/dry joint; tape edges for a clean line.
- Cut nozzle at 45° small opening; steady bead; tool with a damp finger or caulk tool; remove tape while wet.
Tip: Silicone for showers/tubs; paintable latex for trim/gaps.
6) Electrical basics: test outlets and reset GFCI
Tools: GFCI tester, non‑contact voltage tester.
- Press TEST on GFCI; verify power cuts; press RESET.
- Use outlet tester to read wiring; address open ground or reversed polarity via an electrician.
Safety: Always test for live power before working. Never touch bare conductors.
7) Change HVAC filters
Tools: correct-size filter (MERV 8–11 for most homes), marker.
- Note airflow arrow; install snugly; mark date.
Tip: Set a phone reminder every 30–60 days.
Safety practices and best results
- Wear eye and hand protection; use a stable ladder (never on the top step).
- De-energize and verify with a tester before touching wires.
- Use PTFE tape only on tapered threaded fittings, not on compression or flared connections.
- Pre‑drill to prevent splitting; start fasteners by hand to avoid cross‑threading.
- Keep a “house binder” with photos of shutoffs, breaker labels, filter sizes, and paint colors.
When to call a pro
- Electrical: frequently tripping breakers, warm outlets, buzzing/sparking, aluminum wiring issues, or any panel work.
- Plumbing: main drain backups, active ceiling leaks, corroded main shutoff, gas odors.
- Structure: sagging floors, cracked joists, unknown load‑bearing walls before altering.
- Hazardous materials: suspected asbestos or lead paint (common in pre‑1978 homes).
With a small investment in the right tools and these starter skills, you’ll handle most routine fixes confidently and know exactly when to bring in help.