How do I install new kitchen backsplash tile?

Short answer

You can install a kitchen backsplash by prepping the wall, planning your layout, applying tile adhesive with the right notched trowel, setting the tiles with spacers, letting them cure, then grouting and caulking. Expect a weekend project for 25–40 sq ft if you have basic DIY experience.

What you’ll need

• Tiles (buy 10% extra; 15% for herringbone/diagonal)
• Adhesive: polymer-modified thinset (for ceramic/porcelain; use a glass-rated mortar for glass tile). Pre-mixed mastic can work for small ceramic in dry areas, but avoid for glass/natural stone or behind ranges.
• Grout: sanded (≥1/8" joints) or unsanded (≤1/8"); or pre-mixed/epoxy
• 100% silicone caulk (color-matched if possible)
• Tile spacers or tile leveling system (for tiles ≥12")
• Notched trowel(s): 1/4"×1/4" square notch for standard subway; 3/16" V-notch for mosaics
• Tile cutter: score-and-snap, and/or wet saw with diamond blade; tile nippers for notches
• Margin trowel, grout float, mixing paddle/drill
• Level, laser level or chalk line, tape measure, pencil
• Ledger board (straight 1×3 or similar)
• Utility knife, oscillating multi-tool (for trim/caulk removal), putty knife
• Sponge, buckets, microfiber cloths
• Painter’s tape, rosin paper or drop cloth for countertops
• Outlet box extenders and longer device screws
• PPE: safety glasses, hearing protection, cut-resistant gloves, N95/respirator

Safety first

• Turn off power to kitchen outlets/switches at the breaker. Verify with a non-contact voltage tester before removing plates.
• Cut tile with a wet saw when possible to minimize silica dust. Wear eye/ear protection and a respirator if dry cutting.
• Use gloves when handling cut tile and blades. Keep cords and water away from live circuits.

Prep the surface (1–2 hours)

• Clear counters and protect them with rosin paper or a drop cloth. Mask the countertop-to-wall seam with painter’s tape.
• Remove outlet/switch plates and pull devices forward gently.
• Degrease the wall with a TSP substitute, rinse, and let dry. Scrape off bumps. Fill holes with setting-type joint compound; sand smooth.
• For glossy paint, scuff sand (120–150 grit) so mortar can bite.
• If tiling over old tile, consider removal. Thinset bonds poorly to soap or oil. If you must tile over tile, clean/degloss thoroughly and use a bonding primer rated for tile-to-tile.

Plan the layout (30–60 minutes)

• Measure and dry-lay a row on the counter to visualize cuts at ends and at the range. Aim for balanced cuts (>1/3 tile) where it meets walls or cabinets.
• Check the countertop for level. If it’s not level, install a level ledger board one full tile height minus your planned gap above the counter to start the first visible row dead level.
• Decide on edge treatment: bullnose tile, a metal edge profile, or tuck into cabinets.

Recommended specs:
- Countertop-to-tile gap (for caulk): 1/8"
- Spacers: 1/16"–1/8" for subway; follow manufacturer for mosaics
- Trowels: 3/16" V-notch (mosaics), 1/4"×1/4" SQ (typical subway), 1/4"×3/8" for larger format
- Cure before grouting: 16–24 hrs (check mortar bag)
- Outlet boxes must be flush with finished surface; use box extenders to meet code

Set the tile (3–6 hours for 30–40 sq ft)

1. Mix thinset per bag instructions. Let it slake (rest), then remix. Only mix what you’ll use in ~30–45 minutes.
2. Using your notched trowel, spread adhesive on a small section (3–4 sq ft). Comb in straight lines, notch held at ~45°. Back-butter tiles if backs are ribbed or if coverage is low.
3. Set the first course on the ledger or, if your countertop is dead level, start from spacers sitting on the countertop. Maintain a 1/8" gap at the counter for caulk. Use spacers between tiles.
4. Check level and plane frequently. For mosaics on mesh, lightly press with a grout float to keep sheets flat.
5. Make cuts as needed:
   • Straight cuts: score-and-snap cutter or wet saw.
   • Notches/outlet openings: wet saw, tile nippers, or an angle grinder with a diamond blade.
   • Dry-fit around boxes so tile edges don’t collide with device ears.
6. Around outlets/switches: install box extenders so the box front ends flush with the tile surface; plan for cover plates to overlap cuts by at least 1/4".
7. Let the tile cure per adhesive instructions.

Grout and finish (2–3 hours plus cure)

1. Remove spacers. Vacuum dust from joints.
2. Mix grout to peanut-butter consistency. Pack it into joints with a rubber float at a 45° angle.
3. After ~10–20 minutes, wipe diagonally with a damp sponge. Rinse frequently. Don’t over-wet.
4. When haze appears, buff with a microfiber cloth.
5. Caulk all change-of-plane joints (countertop-to-tile, inside corners, edges) with 100% silicone. Do not grout these joints.
6. Reinstall devices using longer screws as needed. Mount cover plates.
7. Seal grout if using cement-based grout (after cure per label). Pre-seal natural stone before grouting to prevent staining.

Tips for best results

• Use a laser level to keep long runs straight under cabinets.
• For glass tile, use a white glass-approved mortar and a finer notch to avoid trowel lines telegraphing through.
• Stagger subway tile by 1/3 rather than 1/2 to reduce lippage with slightly bowed tiles.
• Dry-lay a full backsplash area on a table to plan tricky areas like windows and range hoods.
• Consider a tile edge profile for clean ends where tile stops on an open wall.

Common mistakes to avoid

• Starting directly on an unlevel countertop without a ledger.
• Skipping wall cleaning/scuffing—leads to poor bond.
• Using mastic for glass or natural stone; oils can stain stone and show through glass.
• Grouting the countertop joint instead of caulking—cracking is likely.
• Not allowing full cure time before grouting or using the area.

Cost and time

• Tile: $3–$20+ per sq ft depending on material.
• Adhesive and grout: $40–$120 total for a typical kitchen.
• Tool rental (wet saw): $40–$70/day if you don’t have one.
• Time: Most DIYers complete a 30–40 sq ft backsplash over 1–2 days plus cure time.

When to call a pro

• Walls are significantly out of plumb/flat and need floating or backerboard.
• Complex patterns (herringbone, chevrons) around windows or range hoods.
• You’re moving or adding outlets/lighting, or dealing with aluminum/steel backsplashes.
• Large-format or natural stone that needs specialized cutting and sealing.

With careful prep, the right trowel and adhesive, and patience on layout, a backsplash is a very achievable DIY upgrade that delivers a big visual payoff.