How can I repair small sections of wood trim or a doorstop damaged by pets?

Short answer

Yes—you can repair small pet-chewed or gouged sections of wood trim or a doorstop using either wood filler for shallow damage or two‑part epoxy for deeper chunks. For paint-grade trim, fill, sand, prime, and paint. For stained wood, repairs are trickier; consider a wood putty color match or replacing the damaged piece for best appearance.

What to use and when

Gap/damage size guide:
- Scratches & shallow divots (< 1/8 in deep): Solvent‑based wood filler
- Medium gouges (1/8–3/4 in deep): Two‑part epoxy wood repair (1:1 mix)
- Large missing sections (> 3/4 in or crisp edges needed): Cut out and splice in new trim/doorstop

Materials

• Wood filler (solvent-based for durability) OR two-part epoxy wood repair putty/liquid consolidant
• Primer (stain-blocking, bonding primer for trim)
• Paint (semi-gloss or satin trim enamel) or stain + clear finish (for stained trim)
• Wood glue (for new piece replacement)
• Replacement trim/doorstop moulding (if splicing)
• Caulk (paintable, for tiny seams—not for structural fills)

Tools

• Utility knife and sharp chisel
• Putty knife (1.5–3 in)
• Sandpaper: 80/120/180–220 grits; sanding block or random orbit sander
• Oscillating multi-tool or fine-tooth handsaw (for cut-outs/splices)
• Drill/driver and brad nailer or hammer + 4d–6d finish nails (if replacing a piece)
• Painter’s tape, rags, disposable mixing pad/sticks
• Safety gear: eye protection, dust mask/respirator for sanding, nitrile gloves, good ventilation

Step-by-step: Filling a small damaged area (paint-grade)

1. Assess and prep

   • Trim away loose fibers and splinters with a utility knife. Slightly undercut ragged edges so filler can lock in. Vacuum dust.
   • Degloss glossy paint around the area with 180–220 grit.

2. Choose filler vs epoxy

   • Use wood filler for small dings; choose two-part epoxy for chunks, corners, or doorstop edges that need strength.

3. Apply

   • Wood filler: Press firmly with a putty knife, slightly overfill. Let dry per label (often 15–60 minutes).
   • Epoxy: Mix equal parts (1:1) until uniform color. For punky wood, brush in liquid consolidant first. Pack the putty in layers, shaping roughly to profile. Smooth with an alcohol- or solvent-dampened glove for less sanding.

4. Shape and sand

   • When the repair is "green" (firm but not fully hard), use a sharp chisel or knife to refine edges and profiles. Once cured, sand progressively: 80 to shape, 120 to blend, 180–220 to finish.

5. Prime and paint

   • Spot-prime repaired areas; epoxy and filler both need primer for adhesion and sheen uniformity. Apply 2 thin coats of trim enamel, sanding lightly between coats if needed.

Time: 1–2 hours of hands-on work across a day to allow cure/paint dry time. Cost: $15–$40 in materials.

Step-by-step: Replacing a chewed doorstop or moulding section

Sometimes replacing a short segment is faster and looks cleaner, especially for stained wood.

1. Remove the damaged section

   • Use an oscillating multi-tool to make square or 45° scarf cuts past the damage. Score paint/caulk lines first with a utility knife to prevent tear-out.

2. Cut a patch piece

   • Match the profile from a new length of stop moulding or trim (common doorstop is 3/8–1/2 in thick by 1–1 1/4 in wide). Dry-fit to ensure tight joints.

3. Install

   • Apply a thin bead of wood glue at joints. Nail in place with 1–1 1/2 in brads into the jamb/stud. Set nail heads slightly below the surface.

4. Fill, sand, and finish

   • Fill nail holes and tiny seams with wood filler. Sand smooth, prime, and paint. For stained trim, use color-matched putty and stain/clear to blend.

Time: 1–2 hours. Cost: $10–$25 for moulding and supplies.

Safety and pet-proofing

• Wear eye protection and a dust mask while cutting/sanding. Use gloves and ventilation for epoxy products.
• Keep pets away during curing; many products are not pet-safe until fully cured.
• If the door doesn’t latch after repair, check that the stop hasn’t moved; adjust as needed.

Tips for best results

• Tape off edges and hinges to reduce cleanup and protect adjacent finishes.
• For sharp corners (baseboard cap, doorstop edge), press a straight scrap wrapped in tape against the filler as a guide while it sets.
• Lightly score faux grain into epoxy with a utility blade before final sanding if you’re trying to blend under stain.
• Prime epoxied areas twice; they can be less porous and show flashing without a solid primer coat.
• Shape epoxy while green to cut sanding time dramatically.

Common mistakes

• Using lightweight spackle on trim—it’s too soft and will dent again.
• Skipping primer; paint will flash or peel on filler/epoxy.
• Overfilling massive voids in one go; thick masses of filler can crack. Build in layers or switch to a splice.
• Expecting seamless stain match on big repairs—often disappointing without replacing the piece.

When to call a pro

• You find soft, dark, or crumbly wood indicating rot or water intrusion.
• Damage compromises door function (hinge/strike area crushed, jamb split) or you need structural reinforcement.
• Pre-1978 paint that may contain lead—use an EPA RRP-certified contractor for disturbance beyond basic touch-ups.
• High-end stained millwork where grain/color matching matters; a finish carpenter can splice invisibly.

Quick product picks (by type)

• Two-part epoxy wood repair: Putty stick or mixable paste (1:1). Great for corners and edges.
• Solvent-based wood filler: Dries hard, sands clean, good under enamel.
• Bonding primer: Shellac- or alkyd-based for tough adhesion and stain block.
• Oscillating multi-tool: Precise cut-outs for clean splices.

With the right filler or epoxy—and a steady sanding and priming routine—you can make chewed trim or doorstops look new without replacing entire lengths. For stained pieces or large missing chunks, a short splice often delivers the cleanest, fastest fix.