How can I prevent Wi-Fi and electrical disruptions during home renovations?

Short answer

Plan your outages, separate temporary power for tools from your router/modem, set up a protected temporary network spot, and use a small UPS and/or cellular failover. Label and protect all low‑voltage cables before demolition, and keep Wi‑Fi access points high, central, and away from metal and dust. For any panel work or new circuits, use a licensed electrician.

Why disruptions happen

• Power tools cause voltage dips and trips on shared circuits.
• Demolition can cut or disconnect coax, fiber drops, or Ethernet runs.
• Dust, moisture, and metal framing degrade Wi‑Fi and overheat gear.
• Router/AP relocation during construction shifts coverage and channels.

Step-by-step plan

1) Map and protect before demo (1–2 hours)

• Walk the house and locate: router, modem/ONT, switch, APs, coax/fiber entry point, existing Ethernet runs, and the circuit(s) feeding them.
• Label everything with cable tags. Photograph the setup.
• Use a stud finder with AC/metal sensing to trace cable paths near work areas.
• Tape off or relocate exposed low‑voltage lines. Use low‑voltage surface raceway or flexible ENT (smurf tube) to temporarily route around demo zones.

2) Set up a temporary network hub (30–60 min)

• Choose a clean, central room away from heavy cutting/grinding.
• Move modem/ONT, router, and any switch into a ventilated plastic bin or NEMA‑style low‑voltage enclosure with dust filters. Cut slots for airflow; elevate off floor.
• Extend ISP feed if needed: use a single high‑quality coax extension (RG6) or pre‑terminated fiber jumper routed safely along baseboards.

3) Give your network clean power (30–45 min)

• Plug modem/router/switch into a 600–1000 VA UPS. This smooths tool‑induced sags and keeps internet up during brief breaker trips (10–30 minutes).
• If possible, power the UPS from a lightly loaded circuit not used by jobsite tools (often a bedroom or office). Avoid refrigeration or microwave circuits.
• Provide a separate GFCI‑protected 20A circuit (temporary quad box) for tools to reduce nuisance trips on the network circuit.

4) Maintain Wi‑Fi coverage

• Place the main router/AP high on a shelf, at least 6 ft off the floor, away from metal ducts/studs and foil‑backed insulation.
• Add a temporary mesh node halfway toward work areas if walls are open; remove after drywall.
• Use a Wi‑Fi analyzer app to pick cleaner channels. Prefer 5 GHz/6 GHz for less interference; leave 2.4 GHz on only if you have legacy smart devices.

5) Protect and reroute low‑voltage

• For rooms under renovation, run temporary Cat6 along baseboards with low‑profile raceway or cord covers across thresholds.
• Cap and bag any unused wall jacks to keep out dust and paint.
• Keep low‑voltage at a safe distance from AC runs (see specs below) to limit noise.

6) Communicate and schedule outages

• Ask the contractor when breakers must be off. Cluster network‑critical tasks outside those windows.
• Post a simple outage plan: who switches the UPS, where the cellular hotspot is, and what circuit feeds the network.

7) Test and monitor (15–20 min)

• After each layout change, run a speed/ping test from two spots. Check modem signal levels or ONT status.
• Use the router app to watch for frequent DHCP renewals or reboots—signs of power instability.

Tools and materials

• UPS (600–1000 VA), surge‑protected power strip (do not daisy‑chain)
• GFCI temporary power box or adapter, 12/3 heavy‑duty extension cords with cord covers
• Cable labels, painter’s tape, zip ties, low‑voltage surface raceway or ENT, fish tape
• Cat6 patch cables, RJ45 couplers (temporary), RG6 coax extension if needed
• Ventilated plastic bin or low‑voltage enclosure, dust filters
• Stud finder with AC detect, non‑contact voltage tester, Wi‑Fi analyzer app
• Optional: mesh Wi‑Fi node, cellular hotspot or dual‑WAN router for failover

Safety considerations

• De‑energize and verify with a non‑contact tester before opening boxes. Use lockout/tagout on panel work.
• Keep all junction boxes accessible—never bury splices behind new drywall.
• Use GFCI protection for jobsite tools; keep cords out of walkways or cover them.
• Avoid overloading: one heater or saw can trip a 15A circuit and drop your network.

Tips for best results

• Put the router and modem on their own circuit if available; otherwise rely on the UPS.
• Seal dusty rooms with zipper barriers; run temporary network cables under the seal using cord covers to limit dust ingress.
• For critical work calls, set up automatic cellular failover or keep a phone hotspot ready; test it in advance.
• Keep spare patch cables and a coax/F‑connector kit on hand—cheap insurance.

Common mistakes to avoid

• Daisy‑chaining power strips or plugging UPS into a surge strip.
• Cutting “mystery” low‑voltage lines during demo—trace and label first.
• Mounting APs low or next to ducts/metal studs, crushing Wi‑Fi range.
• Painting over jacks and keystones, causing intermittent connections.
• Running Cat6 parallel and tight against NM‑B for long distances—adds noise.

When to call a pro

• Any service panel work, adding circuits, subpanels, or relocating the meter/main—hire a licensed electrician.
• If you’re moving the ISP demarcation, fiber ONT, or re‑terminating structured cabling for more than a few runs, bring in a low‑voltage installer.
• Repeated breaker trips or voltage sags despite a UPS indicate circuit issues—have an electrician evaluate load and balance.

Quick specs and rules of thumb

Low‑voltage vs. AC spacing:
- Parallel runs: keep ≥12 in apart (24 in preferred)
- Crossings: cross at 90° with ≥2 in separation
Fasteners:
- Low‑voltage cable staples every 3–4 ft; avoid crushing jacket
UPS sizing:
- Typical modem+router+switch: 30–50 W
- 600 VA (360 W) ≈ 30–60 min runtime; 1000 VA ≈ 60–120 min
AP placement:
- 6–8 ft high, clear line of sight, away from large metal

Rough costs

• UPS: $70–$150; mesh node: $80–$200; cord covers/raceway: $15–$50; labels and low‑voltage hardware: $10–$40
• Electrician: $150–$200/hr; low‑voltage installer: $75–$125/hr

Plan it, label it, power it cleanly, and protect it from dust and interference—your Wi‑Fi and electrical will stay reliable while the renovation moves forward.