DeWalt 1 HP Stainless Steel / Cast Iron Submersible Sump Pump

I installed the DeWalt 1 HP sump pump to replace a tired, plastic-bodied unit in a high water table basement. The difference was immediate: stronger evacuation, shorter run times, and a lot more confidence during hard rain. After a few months of real use—including a couple of multi-hour storms—I have a solid feel for where this pump excels and where it asks for a little attention.

Build and design

This is a heavy, well-made pump. The cast iron base and impeller give it a planted feel in the pit; it doesn’t tip or walk when it kicks on. The stainless housing and fasteners should resist corrosion long-term, and the stainless shaft with a carbon/ceramic/stainless seal is the kind of componentry I expect in a pump built for years, not seasons. At 29 pounds and roughly 13.5 inches tall, it fits easily in a standard 18-inch basin, but be prepared to lower it carefully—there’s a sturdy carry handle, which helps.

A few design choices stand out:
- Vertical float switch: Compact, precise, and less prone to tangling than a tethered float. The piggyback plug lets you bypass the float to run the pump manually—handy for testing or pumping down after maintenance.
- 2-inch discharge with 1-1/2-inch adapter: This is smart. If your discharge plumbing is 1-1/2 inches (common in homes), you’re covered; if you can run 2 inches, you’ll get the most performance.
- Oil-cooled, hermetically sealed motor: This isn’t an “oil-free” pump, but the sealed oil bath supports cooling and longevity. Thermal overload protection is onboard.

You don’t get a check valve in the box (plan to buy one), and the power cord is 10 feet with a standard 3-prong plug. That’s enough for most pits, but measure your route to a GFCI-protected outlet before you start.

Installation notes

Setup is straightforward for anyone comfortable with PVC or ABS. I used a 2-inch check valve and union directly above the pit to make future service easy. The pump’s discharge threads are clean and robust; use pipe dope or PTFE tape and don’t overtighten.

Tips from my install:
- Use the largest pipe your system allows. This pump can move a lot of water; choking it down with undersized pipe will reduce capacity and can stress old glued joints.
- Respect the current draw. At 120 V and roughly 12 A running, a dedicated 15 A circuit is wise. Avoid extension cords.
- Keep the float clear. Give the vertical float a few inches of breathing room away from the basin wall and discharge piping to avoid binding.
- Anti-airlock practice. Follow the manual’s guidance for an air relief hole (weep hole) below the check valve if required by your setup. Airlock is the silent killer of sump performance.

The pump drops right onto a flat pit bottom. The iron base has good intake area and sits stable; I like that it doesn’t rely on little feet that can dig into softer basin linings.

Performance

This is where the pump earns its keep. At typical residential heads (8–12 feet), it moves serious water—on the order of 100 GPM at 10 feet per the curve. In practice, that means the pit empties fast and the pump rests longer between cycles. During a heavy storm that used to make my previous pump run almost continuously, this unit cycled on, cleared the basin in seconds, and shut off with plenty of margin.

Key numbers, translated:
- Max flow: about 117 GPM at 0 head
- 10 ft head: about 100 GPM
- Max head: 34 ft

If you have long horizontal runs or multiple elbows, you’ll still have plenty in reserve. The cast iron impeller handles small debris up to 1/2 inch, which is useful in older pits that accrue grit and organic crud. It’s not a sewage pump, but it tolerates typical sump debris better than plastic impellers do.

Noise and vibration

For a 1 HP unit, it’s surprisingly composed. There’s a firm start and a low hum while running—no shriek, no rattles. The mass of the pump does a lot to damp vibration, and the vertical float doesn’t slap against anything. With properly supported discharge piping and a rubber coupling, the noise level is very basement-friendly.

Float switch and controls

The vertical float has defined on/off levels (roughly on at 7.25 inches, off at 1.5 inches relative to the pump). That relatively short travel means:
- In a narrow basin, expect more frequent, shorter cycles.
- In a wider basin, the volume change per cycle will feel larger and cycles will be more relaxed.

The piggyback plug arrangement is excellent. One plug powers the float, the other powers the pump. For manual operation or troubleshooting, unplug the float and plug the pump directly into the outlet. For normal use, plug the pump into the float’s receptacle and the float into the wall. Simple and reliable.

One thing to watch: the float rod and guard are external parts, and although they feel solid, they can be vulnerable if you force plumbing into the same footprint. Give the assembly clear space and secure your vertical discharge pipe so nothing leans into the float.

Reliability and maintenance

So far, zero hiccups. Starts cleanly, runs cool, and shuts off reliably. The thermal overload protection is a welcome backstop if the pit runs dry or the discharge becomes blocked. The combination of cast iron and stainless construction inspires confidence in wet, corrosive conditions.

Maintenance is basic:
- Inspect the pit and clean debris periodically so the intake stays clear.
- Test the float manually every few months.
- Confirm the check valve isn’t chattering or stuck; replace it if it’s noisy or leaking back excessively.
- If you bypass the float for manual runs, don’t walk away. Thermal protection helps, but no pump likes running dry.

The 10-year limited warranty is strong for this category. Registration and support are handled differently than DeWalt’s power tools—be prepared to follow the pump-specific process rather than the usual yellow-tool portal.

Where it could be better

• No included check valve. It’s a small miss, but a common one. Budget for a quality, full-port valve (2 inches if you can).
• Shorter float differential. In very small pits with high inflow, that can mean more cycling. Not a deal-breaker, but worth understanding.
• Cord length. Ten feet is fine for most, but basements with high-mounted outlets may need an electrician to add a properly located receptacle.

Who it’s for

• Homeowners with a high water table or fast inflow who want headroom during storms.
• Light commercial spaces that need a reliable, high-capacity sump solution.
• Anyone upgrading from a plastic-bodied pump and looking for quieter, sturdier operation and better solids tolerance.

If you have a very shallow pit, extremely constrained space around the pump, or legacy 1-inch discharge plumbing you don’t want to upgrade, you won’t unlock this pump’s full potential.

Recommendation

I recommend the DeWalt 1 HP sump pump. It’s a high-capacity, well-built unit that moves a lot of water without drama, and the materials and motor design suggest long service life. Installation is straightforward, the vertical float and piggyback plug are practical touches, and the pump’s composure under load inspires confidence. Plan for a proper check valve, give the float clean clearance, and use appropriately sized discharge piping to take full advantage of its performance. If you do those things, this pump is the kind of set-and-forget workhorse you want in your basement when the weather turns ugly.