KALINA 6FT (70-55/64") T5 T8 Tube Light Fixture LED Linkable Cord, Double end Connector Cable, Power Extension Wire for LED Integrated Single Fixture, Shop light, Garage Light, Under Cabinet Light, Pack of 4

Why I reached for this link cable

Upgrading shop and task lighting has a way of exposing the weak link—usually the short, stiff jumper cables that come in the box. I ran into that installing a run of integrated T5/T8 LED bars across a garage ceiling and around a support beam. The stock interconnects were fine for fixtures mounted end-to-end, but not for spanning joists, ductwork, or cabinet gaps. That’s where the Kalina link cable came in. It’s a 6-foot, double-ended, 3‑prong interconnect designed specifically for integrated T5/T8 bars, and it solved my layout problems without forcing additional power drops.

Design and build quality

The cable is simple in the best way: white jacket, flexible, with identical 3‑pin female connectors on both ends. The connectors are keyed, so orientation is obvious, and the molding includes decent strain relief that doesn’t fight you when you route it around corners. The jacket is supple enough to snake through cabinet cutouts and between ceiling joists, yet it doesn’t feel flimsy. I was able to make smooth, 2–3 inch radius bends without kinking.

Length is advertised at 70‑55/64 inches (about 1.8 m). The four in my pack were consistent and effectively gave me just under six feet of reach from light to light—enough to skip a stud bay or reach around a cabinet carcass. If your layout is length‑critical, it’s still smart to leave a little slack or plan for a cable clip to take the strain off the connectors.

Under the hood, it’s rated for AC 85–250 V with a maximum current of 2.5 A. For LED bars, that’s generous. At 120 V, 2.5 A is 300 W—far more than a typical chain of lightweight T5/T8 integrated fixtures will draw. I never warmed the cable appreciably during extended use.

Installation experience

Plug‑and‑play here really means plug‑and‑play. My workflow:

• Click the female connector onto the 3‑prong male port at the end of the first bar.
• Route the cable along the desired path. In the garage I followed joists with plastic cable clips; under cabinets I used self‑adhesive low‑profile clamps.
• Seat the other end on the next bar’s 3‑prong male.
• Tug test each connector to confirm a snug fit and relieve any strain with a clip near the light.

No soldering, no adapters, no surprises. The connectors engage positively and don’t wobble; I didn’t encounter intermittent contact or flicker from movement. The white jacket blends well in kitchens and utility spaces and visually disappears against painted drywall or white melamine.

One practical note: both ends are female. That’s exactly what most integrated T5/T8 bars expect, since their linkable ports are male. If your system uses a different gender arrangement or a 2‑pin connector, this isn’t the right cable.

Electrical performance and reliability

I used the cable in three scenarios: bridging a 5‑foot gap between garage fixtures across a support beam, routing power behind and through cabinets for continuous counter lighting, and spacing bars evenly on adjustable shelving. In each case:

• Startup was immediate—no hesitation or hum introduced by the interconnect.
• Brightness matched direct end‑to‑end links with no visible drop.
• The cable stayed cool to the touch even after hours of operation.
• Movement or vibration (garage door cycling) didn’t trigger flicker.

The 2.5 A rating is the guiding limit. To plan your chain, sum the current of the fixtures downstream of the cable section. A single 20 W bar at 120 V draws roughly 0.17 A; a run of ten would be around 1.7 A—comfortably within spec. If you’re on 240 V, current is even lower for the same wattage. In other words, for typical integrated LEDs, you’ll hit your lighting manufacturer’s “max link count” before you approach this cable’s rating.

Compatibility notes

This cable is purpose‑built for integrated T5/T8 LED bars that expose a 3‑prong male linking port. It won’t fit:

• 2‑pin systems or proprietary single‑pin jumpers
• Bare LED strips or DC barrel connectors without an adapter
• Traditional fluorescent tombstones (G13 sockets)

If you’re mixing brands, check both the connector shape and the pin count. Many popular integrated bars share this 3‑pin layout, but not all do. The keyed connector on this cable prevents misalignment; don’t force it if it doesn’t seat smoothly.

Where a 6‑foot link really helps

• Garages and shops: Spanning joists, door tracks, or beams so you can position bars exactly where you need light rather than where the link cable allows.
• Kitchens: Routing behind cabinet stiles or through intermediate cabinets to maintain a continuous under‑cabinet run without punching multiple holes for power cords.
• Shelving and displays: Evenly spacing lights on long shelving units without stacking bars too close just to reach.
• Greenhouses or grow racks: Jumping across wider shelves or between tiers where the stock 12–20 inch jumpers come up short.

In each space, the extra length reduces the number of power inlets you need and lets you keep the lights on a single switch or controller.

Limitations and small snags

• Connector gender: Both ends are female. That’s right for most integrated bars, but it can be limiting if you own fixtures that expect a male‑to‑female cable or require a controller inline.
• Length choice: Six feet is great for spanning gaps, but sometimes you just need 2–3 feet. I’d love to see a mixed‑length multipack to avoid coiling excess cable behind cabinets.
• Strain relief best practices: The connectors are snug but don’t lock with a mechanical latch. In vibration‑prone areas, use a clip near the light to keep the connection stable.
• Environmental rating: These carry mains voltage between fixtures. I keep them away from moisture and wouldn’t use them in a wet‑location without appropriate fixture ratings and protection.

Safety and planning tips

• Mind the 2.5 A ceiling: Add up the downstream load and stay under both this cable’s rating and your light manufacturer’s max link count.
• Route thoughtfully: Avoid tight bends right at the connector; give the molded strain relief a couple of inches before your first clip.
• Provide slack: A small service loop prevents connectors from being yanked if someone bumps a fixture.
• Keep dry and protected: Treat these like any AC cable—no pinching under fasteners and no unprotected runs across sharp edges.

The cables I received passed my informal checks: consistent fit, no arcing or discoloration after extended use, and stable light output. The manufacturer backs them with a 3‑year warranty, which is reassuring for a simple but critical interconnect.

Value and what you get

You’re buying a pack of four, which turned out to be the right number for a single‑bay garage and a small under‑cabinet project. Having extras on hand also encourages a cleaner layout—you can route around obstacles rather than compromise fixture placement. The white color blends into most residential settings, and the flexibility makes them easy to hide.

Given the time saved versus fishing extra power feeds or compromising on fixture spacing, this cable earns its keep quickly.

Final take

The Kalina link cable does exactly what I need a T5/T8 interconnect to do: extend reach reliably, fit snugly, and disappear into the background. The build inspires confidence, the 2.5 A rating is ample for typical LED runs, and the six‑foot length opens up layouts that the short in‑box jumpers can’t handle. The main caveats are compatibility (you need 3‑pin male ports on your bars) and the fact that both ends are female, which won’t suit every ecosystem. I’d also welcome shorter length options in the same family for tidy routing.

Recommendation: I recommend this cable for anyone linking integrated T5/T8 LED bars who needs more distance between fixtures without adding new power drops. It’s a straightforward, reliable way to place lights where they belong instead of where a too‑short jumper forces them to go. As long as your fixtures use the matching 3‑prong interface and your total downstream load stays within the 2.5 A limit, it’s an easy win.