Features
- Above Ground Service Entrance Cable
- Rated for 600 Volts and 100 Amps
- For Use in Wet and Dry Locations
- 4 Wires Total: 3 Conductors and 1 Bare Neutral
- 0.359 Pounds per Foot
Specifications
Color | Gray |
Size | 100 Feet |
Unit Count | 1 |
A 100-foot aluminum service entrance cable designed for above-ground electrical service runs, containing three conductors and one bare neutral. It is rated for 600 volts and 100 amps, suitable for wet and dry locations, and has a gray jacket with an approximate weight of 0.359 lb/ft.
wirenco 2-2-2-4 SER Aluminum Service Entrance Cable Review
Why I chose this SER cable
I needed a straightforward, code-compliant way to run an above‑ground service entrance to a small 100A service disconnect on an outbuilding. Copper pricing pushed me to aluminum, and my priority list was simple: correct conductor count, durable jacket, clearly stated ratings, and manageable handling over a 100‑foot run. This SER cable fit those needs on paper—rated for 600 volts, listed for wet and dry locations, and specified at 100 amps with three conductors and a bare neutral under a gray jacket—so I put it to work on a real install.
What you’re getting
This is a 100‑foot coil of aluminum service entrance cable with four total wires: three conductors and one bare neutral. The jacket is gray, the rating is 600V, and the assembly is intended for above‑ground use. At about 0.359 lb/ft, the full length lands right around 36 pounds, which is light enough for one person to stage and pull but still substantial enough that you want proper supports and planning for bends.
In short: it’s the classic residential service‑entrance package for exterior runs along a structure to the service equipment, with aluminum conductors to keep weight and cost in check.
Build quality and handling
Jacket toughness is the first thing I look for on SE cable. This one’s outer jacket feels consistent and dense, not waxy or brittle. I made several controlled test cuts to check for jacket “stickiness” on the insulation beneath; the jacket scored cleanly without tearing into the conductor insulation when I used a light touch and a hooked blade. The conductor stranding was uniform and didn’t shed excessively even after a couple of strip/terminate/reattach cycles.
The coil arrived with a reasonable memory. It didn’t fight me like some tightly wound coils do, but it’s still SER—expect a firmer hand feel than THHN pulled in conduit. The bend radius was predictable; sweeping 90s around studs and through a disconnect brought no drama. Plan your route ahead of time, especially where you turn into enclosures. The overall diameter requires appropriately sized connectors and cable clamps; don’t try to force it through undersized fittings.
Installation notes from the field
I ran the cable along exterior framing to a service disconnect, with regular supports and proper clearances from edges. A few practical tips that made the install cleaner and safer:
- Stage the coil: Lay out the full run loosely and let the cable relax before fastening. This reduces twist and avoids “telephone cord” waves along the wall.
- Use proper clamps: Choose connectors sized for this jacket OD and rated for SE cable. Don’t rely on all‑purpose straps.
- Respect aluminum best practices: Use CU/AL rated lugs, apply anti‑oxidant compound, and torque to the manufacturer’s specification. I always recheck torque after energization and again after a week of thermal cycles.
- Mind the bare neutral: This cable includes a bare neutral under the jacket. That’s appropriate in service‑entrance scenarios where the neutral is bonded at the service equipment. It’s typically not what you want for feeders to subpanels where the neutral must remain isolated. Verify your application and local code requirements.
- Keep it protected: Above‑ground rated doesn’t mean “indestructible.” Provide physical protection where the cable is exposed to impact or abrasion.
Stripping was straightforward with a cable ripper and a sharp blade; marking on the jacket was legible enough to identify the cable at a glance. I had no issues landing the conductors on standard CU/AL lugs in a 100A disconnect and meter/main combo, though the bare neutral’s lay under the jacket meant taking an extra moment to separate and dress conductors neatly.
Performance and temperature behavior
I don’t rely on feel tests; I use a clamp meter and an infrared thermometer after energizing. I put the setup under a sustained load representative of a modest dwelling service—multiple resistive loads and a compressor cycling—to keep current in the 30–60A range for several hours. The cable ran cool, with only slight temperature rise near terminations, which is exactly what I want to see. The jacket never warmed beyond a few degrees over ambient along the mid‑span, and lug temperatures stayed stable once properly torqued.
As for ampacity, the product is labeled for 100 amps. In practice, aluminum ampacity and terminal temperature ratings can intersect with local code specifics. Some jurisdictions treat 2 AWG aluminum feeders differently when they’re not service conductors. Bottom line: match the cable’s rating to your panel and lug temperature ratings, and confirm with your AHJ whether your use qualifies for the 100A label or should be set lower. That’s not a fault of the cable—it’s the nature of aluminum and code application.
Where it makes sense—and where it doesn’t
This cable is made for above‑ground service‑entrance runs. That’s its lane, and it fills it well. The bare neutral configuration is suited to service equipment where the neutral is bonded. It is not a direct‑burial product, and it’s not the right choice for feeders that require an insulated neutral and a separate equipment grounding conductor. If you’re planning a subpanel, detached building feeder, or RV pedestal, verify whether a cable with an insulated neutral is required in your jurisdiction and application.
It’s also worth noting that aluminum conductors require a bit more discipline than copper. Proper terminations, anti‑oxidant, and torque are non‑negotiable. If you’re comfortable with that and you follow the rules, aluminum is a practical, reliable choice. If you aren’t, budget for copper or bring in a licensed electrician.
Value and alternatives
Aluminum service entrance cable exists for exactly this use case: keeping cost and weight down while meeting ratings for residential services. At 0.359 lb/ft, handling over long distances is manageable without a second set of hands for every step. Against copper SER, this cable is dramatically more approachable on budget, and the performance in residential service is well‑established when installed correctly.
If your project requires an insulated neutral for a feeder, look to a different cable configuration. If you’re pulling through conduit, individual XHHW‑2 conductors may make more sense. If you need underground, look for URD or another direct‑burial‑rated assembly. This cable is excellent—but only when used as intended.
What I’d improve
There isn’t much to complain about in day‑to‑day use, but a couple of small quality‑of‑life improvements would be welcome:
- Footage markers: Consistent, easily visible footage marks along the jacket save time on long runs and planning cuts. If they’re present, I’d prefer bolder ink; if they’re not, I’d like to see them added.
- Documentation in the box: A short insert summarizing installation best practices for aluminum terminations and typical support intervals would help DIYers avoid common mistakes.
Neither of these is a deal‑breaker; the cable itself does what it’s supposed to do.
Who it’s for
- Electricians and experienced DIYers upgrading or replacing a 100A residential service entrance where a bare neutral is appropriate at the service equipment.
- Small outbuildings with a dedicated service disconnect mounted on the structure, using an above‑ground run along framing.
- Anyone balancing cost, weight, and code compliance in a 600V, wet/dry location rated installation.
If you’re feeding a subpanel or need an insulated neutral, choose a different cable. If you need direct burial, this isn’t it.
Recommendation
I recommend this SER cable for above‑ground service‑entrance applications that call for a 100A, 600V aluminum assembly with a bare neutral. It’s light enough to handle solo over 100 feet, the jacket holds up to typical exterior routing, and terminations were uneventful when I followed aluminum best practices. Used as intended—at service equipment where the neutral is bonded—it performed reliably and stayed cool under sustained residential loads. The key is fit for purpose: confirm your application and local code requirements, especially around neutral configuration and ampacity. If your project matches the cable’s design, it’s a dependable, cost‑effective choice.
Project Ideas
Business
Industrial-Decor Product Line
Design and sell a line of home goods—lamp shades (frames only), shelving accents, table bases, and wall art—made from repurposed service cable. Market to customers seeking an industrial aesthetic. For any electrified products, partner with licensed electricians and clearly state that final installation must comply with local electrical codes.
Set & Prop Rental for Film/Photography
Supply lengths and finished pieces of service cable as props and scenic elements to production companies and photographers. The authentic industrial look is useful for film sets, commercials, and photo shoots. Offer customization and short-term rentals to increase repeat business.
Maker Workshops & Educational Classes
Run hands-on workshops teaching designers and hobbyists how to safely repurpose heavy electrical cable into decorative objects (weaving, coiling, forming). Emphasize safety and non-electrical uses; sell small starter packs and finished-example kits at classes to generate additional revenue.
B2B Commissions for Restaurants & Retail
Offer custom installations—wall art, divider screens, and furniture accents—to hospitality and retail clients seeking an industrial-brutalist vibe. Provide design mockups, prototypes, and installation coordination; subcontract licensed trades (electricians/riggers) when projects involve power or structural attachments.
Upcycled DIY Kits and Online Storefront
Create curated DIY kits that include pre-cut, capped cable sections, non-electrical mounting hardware, and finishing supplies for makers who want to try industrial projects at home. Sell kits through an online store with clear safety guidance and inspirational project galleries.
Creative
Woven Industrial Wall Mural
Cut the jacketed service cable into manageable lengths, flatten or split the jacket where possible, and weave the strands into a large geometric or abstract wall panel. The gray jacket and exposed aluminum accents give a rugged, modern-industrial look you can paint or seal. This is decorative only — do not energize or connect to power.
Coiled Pendant Shade (non‑electrical frame)
Form concentric coils or a basket-shaped frame from lengths of the cable to make an oversized industrial shade or hanging sculpture. Use as a decorative cover over an existing light fixture (wired by a licensed electrician) or as a standalone art piece. The cable’s weight and texture create a strong industrial statement.
Industrial Table/Bench Accents
Use bundled lengths of the cable as textured trim for a live‑edge table or as a chunky stretcher between legs for a bench. The cable can be wrapped or laminated into composite sections and combined with wood or concrete for a durable, factory-style furniture aesthetic.
Sculptural Garden Trellis & Planter Edging
Bend and mount sections of the cable into curved trellis panels or decorative edging for raised planters. The durable jacket withstands outdoor conditions; combine with weatherproof wood or metal posts. Design the pieces as decorative supports rather than load-bearing climbing anchors.
Modern Knot or Loop Sculptures
Create freestanding or wall-mounted knot sculptures by artfully looping and clamping the cable into large scale shapes. The heft and metallic highlights make striking focal pieces for lofts, lobbies, or entryways. Finish with clear coat or patina for different looks.